NevoBMW320i

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I am really grateful for your response. I will look into your recommendations and report back here with my findings.

There's this weird juddering or stuttering sound coming from my 2009 E61 520D that started between 40 and 60 miles per hour. It seems to be engine-related rather than drivetrain-related because it only occurs at a constant cruising speed within that range; there are no problems while accelerating or decelerating. Even after a complete service by a nearby BMW specialist—who also cleaned and replaced the injector seals—the problem persists. Is anyone else familiar with this? My go-to garage has run out of ideas, so I'm crossing my fingers that someone has seen this before.

Keep us posted! I’ve got my eye on an Audi Q7 they’ve listed and I’m in the same boat, half tempted but not 100% convinced yet

Hi, I was wondering if anyone in the SE London region knew of somebody who could code. I would prefer it if the front indicators stayed on when the daytime running lights were turned on. If I had a computer, I'd do it myself, but I don't. Alternately, would the bimmercode app and a Bluetooth obd adaptor be sufficient for this task?

Not necessary with contemporary oils, albeit that is merely my perspective.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Residue-Free-Equipment/dp/B00KPUBO2S/ref=asc_df_B00KPUBO2S?linkCode=df0&hvadid=80333274991042&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=41234&hvtargid=pla-4583932738994309&msclkid=3601442e058711a180352d9e1e7ddd6a&th=1&_encoding

My seatbelt is completely unbuckled, so I'll give this a go. Although I do have some WD40 Specialist Fast drying contact cleanser on hand, I believe it mostly serves to remove grime and not lubricate the surface as the silicone you suggested.

Much obliged. Amazon is delivering tomorrow, and I'm experiencing the same problem. Issue resolved in under a minute. 🤞

Salutations, Everyone! In my 2018 convertible 4 Series, the seat belts are built into the seat and are operated manually. Issue: The seat belt for the passenger side won't retract. How do I open the unit? I have looked everywhere but have come up empty-handed. There aren't any fasteners. The front seat belt retractor is broken; how can I fix it? Must I fully open the seat?

Are you hitting them with sufficient force? Never encountered that issue in more than half a century.

arriving in 2015 with an F02. After chasing some intriguing electrical gremlins on the automobile, I decided to join after hovering for a time. Excited to delve deeper into the wealth of knowledge shared here and, with any luck, make a meaningful contribution where I can. Pleasure to be a part of it.

the 30thd.

Since I can code them myself and had all of the injectors removed last year to replace the valve cover gasket, I might get the four old injectors I've seen online for less than £50. Fingers crossed

This is something I haven't checked, so I'll have to get back to you on that. Thank you.

Additionally, since replacing the glow plug, I have not experienced any glow plug faults. When I had a glow plug fault on cylinder 1, the system threw a code even though the glow plug heated up. This suggests that the system is highly sensitive to glow plug faults. After I replaced the glow plug, the fault vanished and has not returned. Thank you.

Hello, I fixed the glow plug issue I experienced on cylinder 1 last year. Just in case, I also replaced the module before replacing the glow plug. Thank you.

It always seems like a misfire when starting cold, but it will start normally once heated.

Unfortunately, there are no fault codes. I believe this is because it resolves the issue on its own. Thank you.

Hello, my 2011 320D with the N47 engine has developed a problem that only occurs after the engine has been off for a while, such as overnight or after a 12-hour shift. Basically, it runs rough on first start up for about 30 seconds to a minute before settling down. I believe it is misfiring because the dash RPM needle drops (it doesn't go above 800 rpm) and dances between 600 and 800 rpm. I can feel the car is shaking at idle, and when I rev the engine. When the car is warm, it pulls and drives really well, and if I restart the engine, I have no problems. I wait for it to settle before I drive home. My EGR had continual EGR-related problems, so I replaced it with a genuine BMW, changed the mass air flow with a genuine sensor, and replaced the glow plug on cylinder 1 with a Bosch glow plug because it had a glow plug actuation fault. As of right now, I just have the brake vacuum sensor as a fault code. Is it possible that this injector is acting strangely when it's cold? The car may have the original injectors because it has 211k on it. Cylinder 1's values were bouncing around more erratically than the others during startup, but they settled down when the rough idle settled and the results showed that everything was within the normal range. Any suggestions or other things I could check for? I ran a rough running test and looked at the injector correction values. Regards

I am unaware of your vehicle, but mine was subpar; there is a substantial nut.The BMW F82 M4 differential employs a substantial, single-use M39 nut with a 1.5mm thread pitch for the input flange (pinion shaft), necessitating specialised equipment and considerable power for removal and accurate torque application. Nuts are also related with the axle shaft seals (output seals). I indicated that the Loctite used was not factory-sourced; however, it must have been, as the vehicle had only 20,000 miles at the time of purchase. Regardless, they successfully removed it, but my differential emitted a whine upon reassembly. Consequently, they procured a new differential and installed it, resolving the issue. Naturally, I incurred no costs for the new differential or associated labour. Nevertheless, I remain uncertain about the differences between the M4 and standard vehicles, as the differential fins and similar components are larger and more robust. The initial leak was addressed, and servicing is required following the leak repair.I required a pinion seal from a BMW shop. The service cost was £88, while the repair for the leak was approximately £400. My vehicle exhibited discolouration followed by a weep, prompting me to cease driving until I could schedule an appointment.

The handbrake must be engaged to reset; nevertheless, it appears that the sensor was not replaced.

Examine the sensor wire; if it is shorted, sever it and connect the ends leading into the plug box within the inner guard, then reset the light.

Are there any guides available for resetting the Blend Door Actuator?