NevoBMW320i

I have removed the front wheels, and the driveshafts appear to be in good condition; is there a method to assess the front differential, or should I simply service it and evaluate the oil's quality? I appreciate the notification regarding the gearbox shaft.

Indeed, I have observed all the problems associated with tires; these vehicles are exceedingly sensitive.

Greetings everyone! I suspect I am experiencing a problem with my transfer case. The wife drove the x5 and upon returning reported a wobble at speeds of 40 to 50 mph; I inspected the vehicle, suspected a bent wheel, replaced the wheels with my spare set, but discovered no damage, yet the wobble persisted, leading me to consider servicing the transfer case. Reset adaptations for the serviced transfer case, yet the wobble persists. 🤯 I replaced the front prop during my visit as a precautionary measure. I replaced the oil with Ravenol oil, but suspecting the car might not respond well, I switched to genuine BMW DTF1, yet it continues to wobble. I am currently at a total impasse. Has my transfer case failed? Removing the fuse ceases the wobbling! I possess an extra transfer case that I am contemplating installing, provided it is not a substantial undertaking. Does anyone possess any counsel? Causing me significant stress and contemplating executing x-delete 😂

In 2016, I cleaned one of these for a friend and was astonished by the size of the rear seats, resembling a racing jockey's saddle, with numerous components to clean, including the rear quarter ducts.

Hello there, 10,000 millilitres and the standard 1 litre

Hello, I've done 97,000 mls of oil in my 2017 520i, and now it's using half of the oil between services. Is this normal?

Hello there! 😊

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=BMW&linkCode

The 2 litre straight six engine that debuted on the BMW 5 series in 1987 piques my interest.

Considering the pair that costs more

The cable bracket seems to be the sole distinguishing feature.

Likewise, I had that same impression. The three vendors I contacted, though, all wanted the VIN number as confirmation. And they still claim it's not the correct one, even if the PNs match? Very frustrating! Accordingly, the PN mentioned earlier appears to be fruitless.

Hey everyone, I need a new shock for my car so it can pass its MOT! The present shock has the part number 37116854207. Owns an EDC. Type this number into Amazon or eBay and you'll get a plethora of results; many of them are new and cost about £110 each. However, it seems that there are still two distinct shocks, with one being somewhat longer in duration. I would appreciate it if someone could elaborate. Surely the only thing that has to match is the component number? Best regards, everyone

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I am really grateful for your response. I will look into your recommendations and report back here with my findings.

There's this weird juddering or stuttering sound coming from my 2009 E61 520D that started between 40 and 60 miles per hour. It seems to be engine-related rather than drivetrain-related because it only occurs at a constant cruising speed within that range; there are no problems while accelerating or decelerating. Even after a complete service by a nearby BMW specialist—who also cleaned and replaced the injector seals—the problem persists. Is anyone else familiar with this? My go-to garage has run out of ideas, so I'm crossing my fingers that someone has seen this before.

Hi, I was wondering if anyone in the SE London region knew of somebody who could code. I would prefer it if the front indicators stayed on when the daytime running lights were turned on. If I had a computer, I'd do it myself, but I don't. Alternately, would the bimmercode app and a Bluetooth obd adaptor be sufficient for this task?

Not necessary with contemporary oils, albeit that is merely my perspective.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Residue-Free-Equipment/dp/B00KPUBO2S/ref=asc_df_B00KPUBO2S?linkCode=df0&hvadid=80333274991042&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=41234&hvtargid=pla-4583932738994309&msclkid=3601442e058711a180352d9e1e7ddd6a&th=1&_encoding

My seatbelt is completely unbuckled, so I'll give this a go. Although I do have some WD40 Specialist Fast drying contact cleanser on hand, I believe it mostly serves to remove grime and not lubricate the surface as the silicone you suggested.

Much obliged. Amazon is delivering tomorrow, and I'm experiencing the same problem. Issue resolved in under a minute. 🤞

Salutations, Everyone! In my 2018 convertible 4 Series, the seat belts are built into the seat and are operated manually. Issue: The seat belt for the passenger side won't retract. How do I open the unit? I have looked everywhere but have come up empty-handed. There aren't any fasteners. The front seat belt retractor is broken; how can I fix it? Must I fully open the seat?

Are you hitting them with sufficient force? Never encountered that issue in more than half a century.

arriving in 2015 with an F02. After chasing some intriguing electrical gremlins on the automobile, I decided to join after hovering for a time. Excited to delve deeper into the wealth of knowledge shared here and, with any luck, make a meaningful contribution where I can. Pleasure to be a part of it.