NevoBMW320i

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Indeed accurate.

The potentially exorbitant 40 mph speed limit on the fastest highways ......

https://www.facebook.com/groups/5834064939958743/permalink/25741808285424447/?rdid=oRDgI94BlyqnulJY&share_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fshare%2Fp%2F17UmZc9XCw%2F#

A few low-mileage vehicles are available here in Jersey; I observed one locally. E63 estate with merely 4,000 kilometres accumulated over 8 years. I do not consider £39,000 to be an unfavourable pricing, to be honest.

Greetings everyone, I have been an infrequent user of this site for an extended period, but this is my first time registering; I seek the insights of this esteemed community. I have owned a 2012 E46 330d M-Sport manual touring with 204 horsepower, and it has shown to be exceptionally reliable. It is mechanically sound; nonetheless, it has succumbed to corrosion. It failed the MOT today due to corrosion around the sills, chassis structure, and jacking points. The garage estimates that repairs could exceed £1,000, leading me to believe that it may no longer be financially feasible. The engine has 142,000 miles, has had a swirl flap deletion, and received a new clutch and flywheel around three years ago. It operates exceptionally well; I thoroughly enjoy driving it, making this a rather sombre day. While it is convenient to summon scrappers, it seems somewhat unethical given the abundance of salvageable components. Is there a demand for these components? Should I attempt to sell it in its current condition on Gumtree or eBay? Thank you in advance.

I concur; the responsibility should not be solely placed on the parking pawl. Engage the handbrake/e-brake first, then shift into park (P). In certain vehicles, selecting 'P' activates the electronic brake, as observed in my M340i and the M5; nonetheless, it is advisable to engage the parking brake first to prevent undue stress on the parking pawl.

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I have been replaced twice, but I suspect it was not done with the appropriate OEM specifications. I will inform them, since that resembles the precise noise I perceive. Thank you.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wIAaH1fBsEOeHuAVPK8ElMLB8GC0L_-g/view

Video link of my vehicle producing the noise

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wIAaH1fBsEOeHuAVPK8ElMLB8GC0L_-g/view

Numerous trips to the garage (vehicle under warranty). Control arms replaced and front brake pads replaced twice. Following the second pad replacement, banging does not occur at low speeds on a level surface during straight-line braking. Noise seems to manifest only on irregular ground. Less noise while braking in reverse, but louder when braking when traveling ahead. It produces a resonant metallic sound, akin to striking a metal pail. The issue may still be associated with components that have been replaced.

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https://caraudiodirect.co.uk/products/ct24bm04-facia-plate-for-bmw-1-3-series-2004

A single DIN fascia may be installed, enabling the fitting of a component such as this. It might obstruct some of the vents, but one must use the available resources.

I will attempt to get one from the agents and assess its impact.

I have included an image; the brand is BBR Automotive.

I purchased a new one, still the issue persists. I am considering purchasing an additional unit in the unlikely event that the one I acquired is defective.

Indeed, I have seen that the cams rotate when I engage the engine.

Hello everyone, I have been a long-time reader, but this is my first post. I just acquired a non-operational 2004 X3 2.0d equipped with the M47 engine, and I am experiencing fuelling problems. I first observed the absence of an injector pulse and was then informed that injector pulsing requires rail pressure. I then used INPA to verify the pressure, which increased to 400 while cranking. I unplugged one of the injectors and reconnected it inverted to see whether it sprays, but there was no output. I then loosened one of the gasoline lines to see whether it would relieve pressure; however, it only dribbled out. I subsequently examined the fuel supply from the low-pressure fuel pump to the rail and high-pressure fuel pump, confirming that both the rail and high-pressure fuel pump are receiving an ample fuel supply. I then examined the fuel pressure regulator located behind the high-pressure fuel pump and did not see a click; nonetheless, it was receiving 9 volts with the ignition activated. I disconnected it and supplied power straight, resulting in a click. I ultimately ruptured the line connecting the high-pressure fuel pump to the rail and saw that no gasoline was emerging. The only issues in the vehicle are the glow control unit and the camshaft position sensor, signals (3EC0, 3EC1). I replaced the sensor, but the error persisted; thus, I inspected the wiring, which is intact. I have been informed that a malfunctioning camshaft position sensor might inhibit the vehicle from starting; however, I have replaced the sensor and inspected the wiring, still the issue persists. I have been informed that a malfunctioning injector may be the culprit, since these injectors tell the ECU to terminate fuel delivery upon failure, resulting in a lack of injector pulse (as stated by a representative from Bosch). I saw in many discussions that upgrading the ECU resolved this issue for others who encountered it. It is worth noting that the ECU was defective when I purchased the vehicle, but I had it repaired, and it successfully passed all bench tests. I believe the high-pressure fuel pump is the problem, albeit I am not a technician. Your assistance would be much appreciated.

Indeed, there is a faint banging sound emanating from the centre of the bonnet when I oscillate the steering wheel while standing outside the driver's door. I will attempt to identify the source of the banging by having someone crank the wheel while I am positioned underneath the vehicle. There is a little knocking sound when I jolt the steering wheel when it is switched off, albeit it is not particularly loud or significant. I will consider replacing those arms with BMW components to see whether they are the source of the banging sound. Thank you once again for your assistance.

Thank you for your prompt reply on this matter. I may repurchase the three-pronged bolt tool, adjust the bush, and repeatedly drive and modify it to see whether it yields any improvement. Regrettably, I cannot afford a new rack. I examined the position of the bushing on the rack, and although it is somewhat accessible under the vehicle, it is insufficient for applying enough torque. That is why I entrusted it to a garage for completion. Is there a manual available for obtaining enough access to the rack from under the vehicle, enabling me to attempt tightening the bolt/thrust bush prior to commencing savings for a new rack? This presumes that the bushing is responsible for the banging noise over minor irregularities. The MOT was exemplary, and a recent inspection by a BMW expert revealed no irregularities, except from a negligible amount of play in the 'braking arms,' whatever that entails. Thank you.