allmightyASTON

Please inform us of your progress.

Indeed, that is feasible. I would not anticipate a positive outcome, since the flakes originated from a component of the engine, presumably a bearing, making it improbable to achieve another 100,000 miles, if you get my point.

Given their expense, I may replace the filter again after another 1,000 miles to see whether it continues to capture the microscopic particles.

It seems to be the case, although it may also be something other. What is the sound of the engine?

I apologise, but the key for a Mercedes from this period is integral to the ignition process.

The key battery is unrelated to the ignition process.

Have you replaced the batteries in the key?

You have likely resolved your own inquiry. If you are undertaking the effort to extract oil, you should maximise the removal and subsequently replace it as usual.

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I visited the Mazda repair shop to speak with the manager and technician. We had a productive discussion and concluded that the issue may be an air bubble, especially considering the impending transition from cold winter weather and the two-week wait for an appointment. I will take the vehicle in for summer maintenance, during which they will inspect everything thoroughly. This location is not where the vehicle was acquired, but it is nearby. They fitted a whole set of wiper blades at no charge after the purchase and replaced two batteries in my key fob. As I neglected them, I almost depleted my resources. However, their service staff was very accommodating and would handle my forthcoming tasks. Sales personnel and service representatives are distinct entities. Salutations

Affirmative

The temperature gauge indicates a consistent reading; nevertheless, I suspect the issue lies with either the thermostat or the heat sensor. Having driven several older vehicles, including my first used car from 1958, I can manage this situation. Modern vehicles exhibit superior performance; today, at -17°C, the windscreen was clean by the time I arrived at Tim Hortons. I want to schedule an appointment with the dealer for repairs, since their expertise is specialised in Mazda, and they may be familiar with the issue I am experiencing. I am a former marine engineer, and we often discussed our profession over a few drinks (rum), and your contributions were always appreciated. much appreciated Salutations

This year, my 2021 CX-30 Turbo fails to generate warm air as it previously did; while parked and revving the engine, the air becomes much warmer but rapidly cools when idling. Dealer help will take a couple of weeks or more. Therefore, I intend to tolerate this issue and have it examined at my next service in the summer.

I had a similar misfire in my vehicle and identified the issue as the coil pack by following the aforementioned steps. Replaced the coil pack, and the issue is likely resolved.

I am not an expert, but you have several error codes, not only the misfire codes. Have you ever cleaned them? Concerning the misfire, I would interchange the coil packs between the two cylinders and see whether the error shifts. If not, proceed to do the same procedure with the spark plugs. The most prevalent causes of misfits, and my first focus.

I measured the battery voltage before to beginning, which was 12 volts. After starting, it charged at 14.8 volts. Upon switching off, the voltage decreased to 12.4 volts. I have recently connected a Bluetooth battery monitor, which indicates a battery percentage of 54%, whereas BimmerLink displays 77%.

The automobile starts without issue after around 2-3 minutes. I just purchased a Bluetooth battery monitor; however, as previously said, I conducted diagnostics using Bimmerlink and an Autel IM508 Pro. All errors, save for the fuel pressure sensor, have cleared.

This is the second Bosch battery from Tayna; the first fresh one had a cell failure, and they replaced it.

Are there any known modules on the E64 630i that may be impacted by low temperatures? My vehicle has a delay in activation upon unlocking, characterised by a central electronics failure. Initially, the windows are inoperative, and the engine fails to crank. After about two minutes, it eventually cranks and starts. Any assistance would be appreciated.

Refrain from applying any surface treatment to the rotors. Standard braking is unlikely to eliminate rust immediately; many forceful stops should have that effect. The primary issue is the mobility of the pads; verify that the calliper pins and other components are not corroded and can move freely.

My ERG is disabled, but the catalytic converter has been removed. Does that include the removal of the cat?

Promising concept; yet, ... There is little smoke; in fact, it is almost imperceptible. Smoke only occurs after I have not accelerated in third gear for an extended period; however, after a few bursts of speed, it dissipates completely, even in the headlights of the trailing vehicle. At the MOT, the vehicle is idled for 10 minutes before to the test, which may result in some smoke during the first acceleration.

I have considered this, but I am uncertain about the need of the expenditure. A few cans of Redex diesel cleaner would undoubtedly represent a superior investment.

You are quite accurate; I acknowledge my error. 1.56 and 0.85 from the previous year. Nonetheless, I am pursuing a resolution to the very high reading. It is possible that the cylinders and piston rings have completely deteriorated during the past 6,000 kilometres. However, I believe otherwise. Prior to doing the vaping trick, he recommended that I eliminate the 1.56 using sandpaper.

Greetings to everyone, A few days ago, I shared my experience with my emission MOT failure and the following pass achieved by directing vape smoke over the sensor. I am seeking clarification about my concerns. I have misgivings about the existence of any problem. The VIN plate indicates 156; does this refer to smoke density, CO2, or NOX? Uncertain and rather irrelevant. Historically, the vehicle has consistently passed the emissions test on the Fast Pass assessment. It failed just once initially, but the second two attempts resulted in an average below 156. Last year, it achieved a score of 85 on Fast Pass. This year, a failure with a score of 365! In the weeks before the MOT, I often deplete the petrol and add a can of injector cleaning to the tank; but, for unspecified reasons, I neglected to do so this year. I also do high-rev, full-throttle acceleration tests and monitor for smoke. Indeed, there were some issues before; nevertheless, during this MOT, nothing was apparent in the rearview mirror, which led to my astonishment at the significant failure. What factors might lead to a shift from 85 to 365 inside a single year? I replace the oil every 5,000 miles; there are no fault messages. The diesel engine is quite loud, but there is no discernible rattling, unless one has my wife's acute hearing. Obstructed injectors? Surely, they would provide some other indication? I believe the miles per gallon is somewhat reduced now; nevertheless, if excessive gasoline is being injected, it should result in smoke or irregular operation. The injectors may need an update, and excessive leak-off might be present; but, would this alone account for such high emission readings? Considering the dubious method they used to circumvent the emissions test by using vape smoke, I speculate if they compromised the emissions by directing cigarette smoke at the sensor in my absence, then proposing to clean the intake manifold for £250 with a guaranteed pass. Your insights about the factors contributing to this emission increase would be valued. Thank you and farewell.