allmightyASTON

I disposed of mine more rapidly by purchasing a set of new wheels that she favoured, amusingly.

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Thank you, Flexfer. I had contemplated replacing both calipers, since quality options are reasonably priced. I intend to go with the scheduled fluid change on Thursday, and if the issue persists, I will examine your recommendation to replace them, given their affordability. Thank you, everyone; I appreciate it.

Indeed, a commendable idea. My first assumption was another clean sheet; I intended to include in the original article that the shoes are complimentary. I verified this when I replaced the rear discs and drums. I do not using the handbrake either.

Greetings I replaced the rear pads and discs due to their diminished condition and saw that one side of the pads was worn down to the metal while the other side was around half worn. I found this peculiar but attributed it to the possibility that the previous owner had only replaced one side. The vehicle has consistently shown a little intermittent pull to the left, occurring often but not consistently, which I suspect may be attributed to the front brakes. I am experiencing a problem where, after driving for at least 15 minutes and after stopping, I detect a burning odor emanating from one of the rear brakes, which alternates between the nearside and offside during different occurrences. Upon replacing the rear pads and discs, the brake pistons retracted without difficulty, and I lubricated the sliders. I verified the brakes by depressing the pedal, resulting in the wheels becoming immobilized; upon releasing the pedal, the wheels spun freely, indicating no binding issues. I am rather displeased with the situation. I have scheduled a comprehensive brake fluid replacement to see whether it would provide an improvement, but I am contemplating the potential failure of the servo or ABS as possibilities. Is there a brake compensator available? Could this be the cause of this? I do not believe it is relevant, but I will say that I have permanently disabled the TOD system and installed a switch to activate it as necessary. Do you have any suggestions on its nature? I appreciate your assistance in advance.

Update - I removed the TC fuse, and the vehicle operated flawlessly, confirming it was really a TC problem. I replaced the fluid (about 450ml) and executed the calibration using ISTA+, resulting in the vehicle returning to a near-normal state. I shall do another fluid change in about one week, since the fluid that was expelled was very dark and likely original from the manufacturer.

All tires are uniform and brand new. I have consistently changed them in sets of four, since I am aware that xDrive may be somewhat particular. The issue has arisen unexpectedly, since everything was functioning well just a few days before. The engine operates smoothly in Neutral and functions optimally overall, mostly due to your work on the chains; thus, I suspect an issue with the gearbox or torque converter. It is disappointing because it does not generate a diagnostic code.

Good morning, everyone. My N47 F31 has begun to exhibit significant hesitation during acceleration, resulting in a prolonged sense of sluggishness. Once at optimal velocity, it operates steadily and smoothly, devoid of any unpleasant sounds or other indications of malfunction. During my recent trip, I observed that there is no hesitation during acceleration in 1st and 2nd gears, whereas the issue seems to begin from 3rd gear forward. Initially, I suspected a Transfer Case malfunction; but, when recognizing that the problem mostly manifests from 3rd gear forward, I am now contemplating a gearbox issue. I used ISTA+, which did not provide any fault codes for any component. However, when I scanned with Bimmerlink this morning, it documented the following codes: Five faults in the central gateway module 101008: Non-resolvable ambiguous routing - SG absent from the SVT target table 101010: SIF error 100104: Hardware fault reason ZGW 100001: VcmResultSvtCheck - identification verification: Discrepancies between the actual SVT and the target SVT have been identified. 100204: Message monitoring: absence of system context signal 12 Two faults in motor electronics 27AC00: Internal DDE control unit (cyclical authentication): Program status verification failed 27AB00: Internal DDE control unit (cyclical authentication): data record verification failed 1C Two faults in integrated chassis management 48276E: Autosar - StandardCore - Non-Volatile Memory - Integrity compromised 482656: Slip angle estimate - internal deterioration attributed to SBS Does anybody possess insights or experiences about similar hesitation concerns, and if so, how were they resolved? I own the ZF repair kit for the transmission and the appropriate fluid for the transfer case, which should address the issue; nevertheless, I anticipate that this may be too optimistic. I appreciate your time in advance for reading this.

Is this the component required for the throttle sensor?

I attempted this, but the engine management light persists. I attempted to get components from Kia, but their parts representative is unavailable on Saturdays. Does anybody possess the component numbers for these items?

The engine management light illuminated today, and when verifying the code, it registered as P2138. After doing a Google search for the code, it indicates either a defective throttle position sensor or a malfunctioning accelerator pedal position sensor. I am departing for a vacation next Friday, and the automobile issue has arisen at an inopportune moment. I have attempted to get parts from Europarts and GSF, but they do not carry certain components. Additionally, eBay is only listing an MK3 or 09 model, and I am uncertain about its compatibility with my vehicle. I would appreciate any assistance; my vehicle is a 2015 Carens 1.6 petrol.

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Please inform us of your progress.

Indeed, that is feasible. I would not anticipate a positive outcome, since the flakes originated from a component of the engine, presumably a bearing, making it improbable to achieve another 100,000 miles, if you get my point.

Given their expense, I may replace the filter again after another 1,000 miles to see whether it continues to capture the microscopic particles.

It seems to be the case, although it may also be something other. What is the sound of the engine?

I apologise, but the key for a Mercedes from this period is integral to the ignition process.

The key battery is unrelated to the ignition process.

Have you replaced the batteries in the key?

You have likely resolved your own inquiry. If you are undertaking the effort to extract oil, you should maximise the removal and subsequently replace it as usual.

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I visited the Mazda repair shop to speak with the manager and technician. We had a productive discussion and concluded that the issue may be an air bubble, especially considering the impending transition from cold winter weather and the two-week wait for an appointment. I will take the vehicle in for summer maintenance, during which they will inspect everything thoroughly. This location is not where the vehicle was acquired, but it is nearby. They fitted a whole set of wiper blades at no charge after the purchase and replaced two batteries in my key fob. As I neglected them, I almost depleted my resources. However, their service staff was very accommodating and would handle my forthcoming tasks. Sales personnel and service representatives are distinct entities. Salutations