Needsnewtyres2

Have you replaced the in-cabin air filter?

The disadvantage of that method is that if the 12v system malfunctions, entry to the vehicle is denied; nevertheless, with the fob, one may use the metal key to enter the automobile. Not all contemporary technology is advantageous.

Upon reporting, I have successfully replaced the engine mounts, and the improvement is remarkable! They were utterly exhausted and fragmented within. Thank you for your assistance with this!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=torque converter&campid=5338181125&customid=2518X1570512X84588a193c997452d1ae78c0a848752a&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&toolid=10001

No concerns, none perceived 😉 Approximately 7 litres were used without drainage.

Thank you for the information; engine mounts are on my agenda, and I am also experiencing an unusual droning sound while turning left at high speed. I will implement this adjustment and provide a report thereafter.

Greetings, everyone! I am a newcomer seeking guidance. I have been researching but have not seen any information similar to the issue/noise I am having with my vehicle, so I thought I would seek out to see if anybody can assist me in resolving this matter. I have had my 2007 E320 sport sedan for about one year, and I think the gearbox code is 722.9. I have recently observed an unusual metallic sound emanating from the vicinity of the torque converter. Here is the current situation: Upon initiating the engine in a cold state, the noise is hardly perceptible. The noise diminishes when I shift the vehicle into drive when the engine is cold. When the engine reaches operating temperature, the noise intensifies when in neutral or park. I have replaced the gearbox oil and filter according to manufacturer specifications, but it did not resolve the issue. The vehicle transitions smoothly when warm; however, I have observed that when cold and downshifting from second to first gear, the experience is rather jarring (but devoid of clunking). The gearbox seems to function OK; nonetheless, the noise is causing me some concern. Has anybody had a similar situation or have any recommendations on the potential causes? I have also included an audio clip of the vehicle in neutral, transitioning to drive, and then reverting to neutral, if that is of assistance. Thank you in advance for any assistance!

Have you enquired with the Mercedes expert on the cost? That would appear to be better than guessing your self or asking local garages who may be wonderful individuals but not MB experts

I believe so; but, to confirm, use the REALOEM website to verify if the component numbers are same.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BS53-USA-06-2002-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=33_1185

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=ET56-EUR-02-2005-E46-BMW-330i&diagId=33_1185

The gearing will be incorrect, since the 05 has an I value of 2.93, whereas the donor 02 has an I value of 3.38.

Insufficient information. Is the 2005 330i an E46 or an E90, and is it automatic? What is the year and model of the automatic 330ci?

The nuts corrode and the shafts get immobilized. When I worked on Mrs. Car, I had to drill and chisel the nut off and use a press tool to extract the shaft. The bearing installation was straightforward as I just placed the hub in the hydraulic press.

Fascinating. It seems that the CX-60 has a trickle charger, but not a float charger, unless you activate the ignition. Although a 13.1V voltage is insufficient to fully charge a 12V battery, it is enough to prevent the battery from draining over time. Trickle charging, which involves a very low current, is also possible with this voltage. The battery requires a voltage of 14.4V for charging, and the charger used at the Mazda workshop provides an even higher voltage.

How can you determine whether it is in the process of charging? The voltage of a lead battery typically requires a minimum of 6 hours, and may take up to 1 day, to stabilise after charging. Therefore, based on this information, it seems that the reading you are seeing is likely a result of the last charging cycle that occurred while driving. After disconnecting my AGM charger from the 12V battery, the battery consistently registers a voltage slightly over 14V for an extended period of time. The state-of-charge of sealed batteries may be ascertained by measuring the voltage. This measurement is most precise when the battery has been disconnected from a load for a minimum of 6 hours, ideally 24 hours.

☺️

Regrettably, no. The automobile dashboard will only show "READY" when the ignition is turned on, which can only happen after detaching from the charger.

Indeed, I have perused that information. Nevertheless, my comprehension is that the injector data is saved inside a BMW database, necessitating a visit to an authorised dealer in order to facilitate its transfer to the DDE.

Installing pre-owned or refurbished injectors is a routine practice for diesel engines, and it is often problem-free. (particularly on earlier versions)

It is possible to use the engine without coding, although its performance may be compromised.

Although nickoyster4, we would be willing to do it, they are motivated by the work and the monetary compensation. The condition of the starter seems OK to me, but, if you are installing a new flywheel, it would be prudent to replace the starter as well.

Thank you for all the guidance, gentlemen.

I connected my previous trickle charger to see whether it provides assistance, since I lack a jump pack...I will provide an update later today.

The battery comes with a comprehensive guarantee that covers complete replacement for the first three years. Therefore, I should be eligible to get a new battery without incurring any costs.