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If you want to make a wise investment in a reliable scan tool, I highly recommend considering Ross-Tech: Home. They provide the only instrument that is really effective, and they provide worldwide shipping. These individuals have successfully deciphered the VAG codes, making these VCDS scanners on par with the original factory equipment. The faults can only be identified by doing a thorough scan of the automobile. Otherwise, you will waste a significant amount of money by replacing components unnecessarily.

Could you kindly provide the location of the 38-pin port?

Is the OBD port often located under the flap in the driver's side footwell?

Thank you, BENZE220AMG

Do you have any insights on the SRS light illuminating and staying on after a battery has been drained or disconnected? Is it possible to delete codes using inexpensive OBD diagnostic units and phone applications?

I only use my W140 vehicle on a monthly basis for a 300-mile round trip to my workplace. However, when I recently relocated over the weekend to clean it before this month's excursion, I discovered that the battery was entirely depleted. I attempted to use a power pack as well as attempted to jumpstart the device using a spare battery, but both methods were ineffective. Consequently, I proceeded to recharge the battery. The battery, which was installed in 2023, does not seem to be the cause of the issue. However, I did observe that it never fully charges throughout the recharging process. After a duration of around 3 to 4 hours, I attempted to start it and it functioned well, although with the SRS light on. Yesterday, I attempted to relocate my car in order to refuel it, as I planned to use it for my work commute the following day. However, I encountered the issue of a depleted battery once again. Fortunately, I had a spare battery that was identical to the original, so I replaced it and successfully started the car. However, the SRS light remains illuminated and does not turn off, even after running the car for a duration of five minutes. I assume that there may be a parasitic drain on the battery originating from an unknown source, resulting in the battery being discharged. Could you kindly provide your insights on this matter, as well as any information on the SRS light? Thank you.

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The turbo will create greater pressure than the crankcase, thus it is important to inspect the rubber elbow below for any cracks. In the case of the m57, it is known to break at that location and cause oil to spray over the alternator.

Oil found underneath the intake manifold and in the starting region is often the result of leaks caused by worn swirl flaps or failing seals on the deletion plugs. However, the source of the oil remains unknown. The condensed crankcase vapour has entered the intake tract via the breather and has been distributed throughout the turbo, intercooler, and manifold. Both kinds of breathers become inefficient when the engine accumulates mileage and blowby occurs, leading to the entry of gases into the crankcase. If I were attempting to address the underlying source of the leak, I would consider installing a catch can.

From where did you get that diffuser?

Yes, your engine is an early version, thus it has a 45-degree configuration. However, in later models, like the N47D20C, the configuration was modified.

Given that you have not yet set it, I presumed that you have set it to 11. However, I suggest that you set it precisely at 45 degrees after top dead centre (TDC) for optimal results.

The High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) primarily maintains a consistent fuel pressure, while its timing is primarily adjusted to minimise vibrations and ensure that the piston in the pump aligns with a certain time in the engine cycle. Actually, you may adjust it precisely when the engine is at top dead centre (TDC) without any uncertainty.

For the n47 engine, when setting the crank at 45 degrees after top dead centre, there is a specific tool available for this purpose. However, if you do not have the equipment, you may mark the crank sprocket at the top and then calculate 45 degrees anticlockwise from the flywheel end. The HPFP sprocket line should be aligned with the notch in the casing. Then, the chain, guides and tensioner should be fitted. After that, the crank should be rotated back to top dead centre (TDC) and the other timing pieces should be installed.

Explore the six forums available on Facebook, where you will find extensive discussions in some groups focused on exhaust systems and wheels.

I have used a Dongar adapter in all of my present vehicles and would be pleased to provide my advice. In order to install a rear dash cam, you will still need to locate a power source. I managed to connect it to the power socket in the trunk and concealed the wire well, ensuring that it is not easily noticeable.

Indeed, I did get those items from that location. They are categorised as chassis, accessories, and exterior components, at least for my C300. Best wishes

I will verify whether it was the correct website.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/mercedes-parts

I believe I have several Mercedes accessories available.

Here are a few images for you. Observe the phenomenon where my windscreen wipers, while in the parked position, appear to intersect each other in a criss-cross pattern. Furthermore, I detached the cover that is connected to the spindle where the wiper arm is attached. The nut can be detached, the wiper can be pushed off in a straight manner, and then it may be replaced in the appropriate position.

(In all my descriptions of 'seeing', I am referring to the perspective from the front of the vehicle towards the windscreen, not from the driver's seat looking out.) If you observe your driver's side wiper blade, you will note that it is almost, if not entirely, parallel to the edge of the hood. Put simply, it is positioned horizontally over the windscreen. The distance from one tip to the other of the plastic moulding at the bottom of the windscreen is about equal. Please reexamine my photo. The left tip of my driver's blade is noticeably lower than the right tip and is positioned just approximately 1/2" away from the moulding. The right tip of my driver's blade is significantly elevated. Upon seeing the wipers from the engine compartment, it becomes apparent that the left tip of the driver's blade is positioned at a minimum distance of 1.5 inches from the moulding when the vehicle is parked. The excessive amount of movement causes the wiper to extend beyond the desired range, resulting in contact with the A pillar. The arm was improperly positioned on the spindle, causing the wiper blade to be excessively high while in the parked position. For what reason? The most prevalent causes are either replacing the windscreen or installing new wiper arms. The solution is rather straightforward, and if you are not confident in doing it yourself, any quality car glass shop will be capable of completing it at a little cost. Furthermore, I saw some discernible 'marking' on the wiper arm shown in your most recent photograph. Mazda does not indicate or label its products. Perhaps the arm was replaced by the prior owner for a specific purpose, but it was mistakenly repositioned. That is my wager.

I often using CarPlay, and I want all navigation features to be fully working.