DreamCatcher88

I changed the speed sensor, which resolved the issue. I will examine the warnings shown on the dashboard.

You now lack control over the preconditioning feature with the November 2023 software; the vehicle determines its need autonomously. Unless the vehicle is being driven aggressively, typical use will not elevate the battery to the necessary temperature during colder months. We travelled to the Alps twice this year from January to March, covering a total of 4,800 miles. The vehicle autonomously selected charging stations, consistently preconditioning the battery; it opted for ultrarapid sites providing a minimum of 150kW, and typically approached full power throughout the charging process. One morning, we need charging but neglected to input the charging position into the satnav, resulting in a failure to precondition. At a 200kW charger, we received under 50kW, resulting in a scheduled 20-minute halt extending to almost one hour. Regrettably, charging a cold battery at 45kW does not effectively increase its temperature, resulting in a maximum output of 85kW after 40 minutes.

The Lambda sensor is positioned above the DPF; I suspect that your problem is attributable to an inadequately configured turbo during its reconstruction, rather than the EGR cooler.

It depends on whether option presents a superior value, particularly if relocation or the need to engage a different dealer arises. The national plan would let you to switch dealers if you had a disagreement with your existing one. The determination of 'enough' is solely subjective. If you are certain you would retain the automobile for five years, then a five-year plan would undoubtedly be more advantageous. If you anticipate disposing of it before that time, choose for a shorter contract. I am uncertain about BMW, but many companies do not reimburse any unused services upon the sale of the vehicle.

In my opinion, gloss black seems more aesthetically pleasing.

Indeed, removing the plate value is a recognised technique. One may accelerate their vehicle down the road, have the emissions evaluated at a separate garage, and get an entirely disparate result. I am uncertain about the fees charged by garages for emissions testing; nonetheless, obtaining a second assessment may be advisable prior to initiating repairs.

I believe there is a missing decimal point in your calculations. The measurement you are referring to pertains to the opacity of the smoke emitted from the exhaust. The default MOT value, in the absence of plate information, is 3.0m-1; however, your plate indicates a value of 1.56m-1, which is the measurement the MOT tester should use. A high reading might result from several potential reasons, including over fuelling. However, it may just be the testing apparatus of that specific garage. I would not be concerned until you see a significant rise in black smoke from the exhaust or until the next MOT is due (assuming you still own the vehicle).

Typically, there are more wires than those seen above. In your first image at the top, does there seem to be a red cable? To what is it connected? I anticipated it would also be linked to the battery, since I believe it would provide power to your fuse board. Additionally, my vehicle has a slender cable that emerges next to the linked connection, which may sever if corrosion occurs due to moisture in the battery compartment. I am not asserting that your automobile has the cable, but you would have seen it when removing the battery.

I Thought I had best write an update on this, as I have now learnt that it is the leaving home lights that are switching on the headlights while in auto mode. This occurs when you enter the automobile and turn the ignition on. While seated in the vehicle, I saw the headlights deactivate after about 15 seconds, leaving just the daytime running lights on. While you may manually override the system by activating the headlights, in auto mode, the headlights will automatically turn off after the designated leaving home light duration concludes.

Just went out to look at mine. In both the auto and headlights-on settings, I see the identical behaviour as shown in your second image. I tried every configuration but could not replicate the illumination in your first image. It is possible that there has been an enhancement in the newer models, and the first image illustrates their intended functionality.

Same with the UK model, both the thin lights and the LED (headlights) on at the same time

Greetings everyone, My wife's 2013 SD4 was recalled for the replacement of the steering screw around three weeks ago. After using the vehicle just three occasions for neighbourhood shopping, the power assistance malfunctioned just prior to entering a 70mph dual road. The car was brought to a Land Rover dealer, who has informed us that a new steering rack is required, and they would not cover the cost of the replacement. My inquiry pertains to the fact that this vehicle was functioning well until the EPS bolts were replaced during the recall; it is peculiar that it has subsequently malfunctioned. Do you have any suggestions for advancing this matter with the dealer?

Indeed, a depleted battery has the potential to trigger malfunctions.

First, I suggest attempting to deactivate the anti-theft system. Since it is a simple test. Another possibility is that the automobile has been idle for a period of time, and maybe the battery is seeing a little decrease in charge.

One must begin at a certain point 😂

Upon returning home from work, I promptly resolved the issues that had emerged. However, despite my efforts to eliminate them, the errors persistently reoccur as soon as the engine is started. Regrettably, I am encountering difficulties in uploading screenshots of the error codes for some unknown reason. The extensions of my files are not permitted.

Greetings, I am now experiencing an illuminated engine light in my vehicle. However, the car's performance remains unaffected. I have used VCDS to scan the vehicle and have identified a total of 8 fault codes. I find it peculiar that I am seeing 8 problems simultaneously. I am curious if these failures are interconnected or whether they are all stemming from a single faulty connection in the wiring harness. Has anybody ever seen a similar situation? The vehicle is a convertible S5 with a 3.0 TFSI engine, identified with the code P1577. The solenoid valve for the right engine mount is experiencing an open circuit. The code P1573 The solenoid valve for the left engine mount is experiencing an open circuit. The code is P1576. The right engine mount solenoid valve is experiencing a short circuit that is causing it to be grounded. This issue is identified by the diagnostic trouble code P1572. The solenoid valve for the left engine mount is experiencing a short circuit that is causing it to be grounded. The code P023A The intercooler's coolant pump is experiencing an open circuit. The code P023B The coolant pump for the intercooler is experiencing a short circuit that is causing it to be grounded. The code P0418 is displayed. The secondary air injection pump [J299] is experiencing a problem. P2257 The secondary air injection pump relay [J299] is experiencing a short circuit to the ground.

Is there a possibility that you have to manually adjust the position of the flaps in a certain manner while connecting the intake, or else they get stuck and generate error codes? I have received information similar to that, however it is possible that it pertains to a distinct engine.

Leaving the doors, windows, hood, and hatch open for more than 15 minutes, such as during vehicle cleaning, significantly drains the battery charge. It requires connecting the car to a 5 amp charger overnight to fully recharge the battery. In this particular scenario, I discovered that the most convenient approach is to just disengage the battery. (This statement is not relevant to the hybrid CX30 model.)

Excellent article. Additionally, I had a leakage through the compressor on my device, so it might be worthwhile to inspect that too. There were little perforations on the lines of my vehicle, caused by friction against the bodywork, namely located in front of the compressor. Road debris may also get trapped between the bodywork and aircraft, leading to increased abrasion. It is unfortunate that they are not covered or protected by anything more substantial.

I have never encountered the concept of excessive compression. Presumably, the presence of fluid in the combustion chamber may be attributed to substances such as gasoline, oil, or coolant.

Does the vehicle emit a dense plume of white smoke from the exhaust, accompanied by a distinct diesel odour, after a cold start? If the answer is yes, it might be a potential sign of poor compression. It seems quite dubious that the problem arose subsequent after the service.....?

That seems really impressive!