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In Sweden, towing is not encompassed within the warranty but is instead part of the assistance coverage or can be added as an endorsement to the car insurance. If you possess such coverage, the vehicle will be transported to the nearest authorised service provider. Assistance is included for the initial three years, with an additional year granted for each service performed at a Mazda dealership. Therefore, I recommend examining the specifics of the towing coverage.

Given that the engine has 200,000 miles, the oil may require a longer duration to return due to the accumulation of sludge and other debris in the drainage channels. Consequently, the drainage process may exceed one hour, contingent upon the internal state of the engine. Maintain the fluid level at three-quarters when cold, and fill it to the maximum when cold after standing overnight to avoid any complications.

If your iDrive indicates 3/4 and your dipstick also reads 3/4 when cold, then the iDrive is accurate.

Furthermore, do not refuel your vehicle with oil immediately after it has been operated. Allow all oil to return to the sump for approximately 30 minutes, then fill to the maximum level. Performing this action immediately after using the engine sometimes leads to overfilling, as the maximum level may be reached while an additional 4 to 5 litres remain above the sump, yet to drain down.

As the vehicle operates, oil circulates to the upper engine components, including the turbocharger, resulting in a decrease in the sump level, where the dipstick is located. After around 30 minutes, the oil returns to the sump and registers a higher level on the dipstick. entirely typical

I consistently utilise the LR Remote application on my smartphone to preheat my Evoque P300e. This provides the option to utilise either the petrol engine or the electric vehicle batteries. When at home, I utilise the EV battery while ensuring that the charger is connected and activated, allowing the vehicle to draw power from the mains energy instead of exhausting the EV battery.

I have exceeded 32,000 miles. My existing tires are on the verge of replacement; but, with winter approaching, I want to replace them now. We travel extensively between home and several locations around the Midwest, making the time seem justifiable. I selected the Pirellis. The commentary in this discussion was really beneficial. I saved more than $400 and believe I acquired an excellent tyre. Further updates will follow when I assess their performance.

I am now changing the tires on my 2024 CX-90. My choice is between the Michelin CC2s or the Pirelli Scorpion Weatheractives. Nonetheless, in both instances, our local dealer advises that they do not adhere to OEM requirements. They instead propose a tyre that I do not want. We reside in Minnesota and like winter-rated all-season tires. Any guidance is welcomed!

Typically, they possess two or three fittings (for the pressure switch) and are secured with a bracket. It is essential to install the new dryer promptly after detaching the fittings, since it will begin to collect moisture from the ambient upon removal. If it only seems unclean, although your air conditioning functions well, do not intervene.

I will do a rescan over the weekend.

I must rescan and document all the codes; I suspect most are unrelated to starting the vehicle. I have detached the front bumper and headlights, among other components, resulting in certain error messages related to those modifications. The scanner is a 'Autel' model, which has BMW in its compatibility list; nevertheless, as a beginner, I am uncertain about its efficacy. The cost was around £300. I have since acquired an oscilloscope to determine if the injectors are getting any input signal, but I have not yet had the opportunity to verify that.

Greetings to everybody, I want assistance in diagnosing the issue with my 2005 320d E90. I am experiencing a 'crank but no start' issue, which I suspect is related to a malfunctioning immobiliser CAS. I use the term 'believe' since I have exhausted all others. All four injectors, high-pressure fuel pump, rails, sensors, filter, and fuel pump have been replaced. I have acquired a mid-range scanner that allows me to clear fault codes, although nothing seems to function properly. It just will not initiate. I need an auto electrician with expertise in these matters.

It may be an air issue; nonetheless, doing a code scan would be the most prudent approach. In the absence of fault codes, we would be engaging in conjecture, which may incur significant expenses.

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