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I consistently utilise the LR Remote application on my smartphone to preheat my Evoque P300e. This provides the option to utilise either the petrol engine or the electric vehicle batteries. When at home, I utilise the EV battery while ensuring that the charger is connected and activated, allowing the vehicle to draw power from the mains energy instead of exhausting the EV battery.

I have exceeded 32,000 miles. My existing tires are on the verge of replacement; but, with winter approaching, I want to replace them now. We travel extensively between home and several locations around the Midwest, making the time seem justifiable. I selected the Pirellis. The commentary in this discussion was really beneficial. I saved more than $400 and believe I acquired an excellent tyre. Further updates will follow when I assess their performance.

I am now changing the tires on my 2024 CX-90. My choice is between the Michelin CC2s or the Pirelli Scorpion Weatheractives. Nonetheless, in both instances, our local dealer advises that they do not adhere to OEM requirements. They instead propose a tyre that I do not want. We reside in Minnesota and like winter-rated all-season tires. Any guidance is welcomed!

Typically, they possess two or three fittings (for the pressure switch) and are secured with a bracket. It is essential to install the new dryer promptly after detaching the fittings, since it will begin to collect moisture from the ambient upon removal. If it only seems unclean, although your air conditioning functions well, do not intervene.

I will do a rescan over the weekend.

I must rescan and document all the codes; I suspect most are unrelated to starting the vehicle. I have detached the front bumper and headlights, among other components, resulting in certain error messages related to those modifications. The scanner is a 'Autel' model, which has BMW in its compatibility list; nevertheless, as a beginner, I am uncertain about its efficacy. The cost was around £300. I have since acquired an oscilloscope to determine if the injectors are getting any input signal, but I have not yet had the opportunity to verify that.

Greetings to everybody, I want assistance in diagnosing the issue with my 2005 320d E90. I am experiencing a 'crank but no start' issue, which I suspect is related to a malfunctioning immobiliser CAS. I use the term 'believe' since I have exhausted all others. All four injectors, high-pressure fuel pump, rails, sensors, filter, and fuel pump have been replaced. I have acquired a mid-range scanner that allows me to clear fault codes, although nothing seems to function properly. It just will not initiate. I need an auto electrician with expertise in these matters.

It may be an air issue; nonetheless, doing a code scan would be the most prudent approach. In the absence of fault codes, we would be engaging in conjecture, which may incur significant expenses.

Please inform us of your progress, since the information may benefit others.

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Uncertain in your vicinity. Any circuit breaker, I suppose. It may be beneficial to consider Dronsfield's, a reputable establishment that offers mail order services and may be located online.

Greetings. You are correct; it is very peculiar, and I have been attempting to identify the underlying problem for years. Last year, I purchased new tires and wheels, which were balanced, and the wheel alignment was also performed.

Thank you for your insights. You said that residual vibration persists after the clutch is disengaged; I too experience similar vibrations, however they are not constant and occur only at certain speeds. I am uncertain about the equipment used for the scan; nevertheless, I can review the documentation later. If you are aware of the necessary parameters to be examined, I can consult with ISTA-D. Additionally, I would like to note that vibration intensity is contingent upon engine load.

Greetings. Initially, when I depress the accelerator pedal halfway, the vehicle accelerates smoothly. However, when I fully depress the accelerator, the car begins to vibrate significantly at high speeds, specifically in the 5th and 6th gears, within the range of approximately 2000 to 3000 RPM. Beyond 3000 RPM, the car accelerates normally and operates smoothly. The vehicle operates smoothly in gears 1 through 4, exhibiting no vibrations at any speed, RPM, or accelerator pedal position. It seems that a portion of the engine's power is not transmitted to the rear wheels, resulting in significant vibrations in the chassis until certain RPMs are reached. Actions undertaken: Four new tires All new brake discs and pads New crankshaft pulley New engine mounts and gearbox mount Flywheel and clutch mechanism EGR and EGR cooler Propshaft central bearing The mechanic examined and tested the vehicle, and I was informed that there are no concerns. Propshaft Suspension Propeller shaft joint Both driveshafts No diagnostic trouble codes present I am interested in any ideas or if someone has had a similar situation. Thank you! I have extensively researched related subjects but cannot locate any information on that particular topic.

Uncertain with the earlier vehicles. I am not contemplating the purchase of a new automobile, but the absence of a dipstick would not deter me. I am very traditional, amusingly so.