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Amazon.co.uk : 2025 Mazda CX-90

MC-11016241-0001.pdf

r 2025 CX-90 (built in December 2024) hasn't experienced any battery problems. Although I'm sorry to hear that yours failed, the battery guarantee should still cover quite a bit of time. According to service bulletin SA-018/25, Mazda will cover the hybrid batteries for 8 years or 80,000 miles on the MHEV. Even without the extra coverage specified in the advisory, it would have been covered beyond the drivetrain guarantee for 7 years / 70,000 miles if you reside in one of the approximately 20 states that follow California emissions requirements. See the warranty handbook for further information. On the underside of the engine, you won't find any parts that need servicing. For example, the timing chain is one of those mechanical components that is supposed to endure the lifetime of the car, but if it were to fail, it would necessitate costly engine-out repairs. When it comes to other Skyactiv engines, the timing chains and guides from Mazda usually last 200,000 miles or more with regular oil changes. In order to change the timing chain on many cars, you have to take the engine cover off. Not exclusive to Mazda inline sixes, and it seems a bit hypocritical, if not exaggerated, to make a huge fuss about it like a certain famous YouTuber did.

MyPartFinder

The 3.3 litre inline six is compatible with the NGK aftermarket plug, which is ILKAR8AC8. Look up the part number at NGK's website, MyPartFinder, if you're still unsure.

Amazon.co.uk : 2025 Mazda CX-90

Unit Number: ILKAR8AC8 This is a stock number for the same plugs: 96410. You can find it on NGK's part lookup page; however, you will need to search for 2024 as they have not yet uploaded Mazda information for 2025 or after. Additionally, you can find them listed on Rock Auto for $10.84 apiece. About 25% of Mazda’s price.

On subsequent generations of vehicles, including yours, FE oil has superseded LL04. Simply enter your vehicle's model on the Opie Oils website, and the system will provide results tailored to your vehicle.

Perhaps the thermostat is stuck. Please tell me the year and the mileage.

Just the passenger side? What gives? Maybe I'm confused. Everything is OK with the torque specs.

Oh, yeah. What a wonderful idea! 😍

What do you mean by "hiding to nothing"? The breaker and whatever else sells them may be someone to enquire, I suppose. The only thing I would do differently is to hope that they are buckled or cracked.

I was wondering if the W204 C-class ang/sport estate could accommodate the Elegance suspension. The 18-inch wheels are just too difficult for my taste. I was hoping to acquire springs and shocks (or at least the springs) from a nearby factor or something, but the only places I can get 17-inch wheels are miles away on eBay and require just a pick-up. I get that it's a sport model and meant to be that way, but the jarring and banging on our perfectly smooth roads is driving me crazy.

Awful, awful s****. 🤬. Should I invest in the right jack? I find that wheel brace to be quite useful. Superior quality.

So, I didn't get a spare, jack, or wheel brace with my new purchase. I have a question for the group: has anyone ever needed a jack and wheel brace for their vehicle? If so, have you purchased them? I feel like I'll regret not getting them and then I'll never use them if I do. Is anyone thinking about that?

Oh great, it seems like the dealer forgot to torque the rear wheel lug nuts to specification when they were changing the oil and rotating the tires on my car. How frustrating!

Apologies if this has been covered but I didn't see my exact scenario. Suddenly, a big thud shook me. It sounds like it is coming from the rear/center of the vehicle but cannot be sure. Like a train starting up, it goes faster and slower as the vehicle does. My first instinct was that one of my tires had gone flat, but upon closer inspection, I saw no damage, leaks or loose components beneath the wheels, and the tire pressure was within normal range. Even if I'm only a short drive from the dealership, wouldn't it be best to have it hauled in this case? Does that suit any of the known, prevalent drive train problems?

Shouldn't 2017 vehicles be unaffected? It could simply be surface rust, which is quite common. Unless it can be thoroughly examined, I think it's better to stay away from it.

Thank you for the responses. Regrettably, mine is an early 2023 model, so I presume there are no choices for remote climate control. Thank you once more.

Greetings, I have own a CH-R for seven months; it is a 2023 GR Sport model. Should climate control be a standard feature on this model? I am unable to locate any information, and the application indicates that I possess none. Several other Toyota drivers have suggested that it should. It is scheduled for a service next month, and I have enquired about the matter; but, I wish to equip myself with further knowledge if feasible.

I concur. It performs adequately with most vehicles; nevertheless, I have reservations regarding the reliability of the offline VIN decoding. US decoders typically misinterpret UK or European decodes and complain about incorrect check digits. This one is accurate. https://www.vindecoderz.com/ Notably, the SRS fault had vanished this evening. Likely related to temperature and humidity; therefore, I will certainly clean the connector(s).

Indeed, I possess multiple multimeters and have over 40 years of knowledge in electronics, hence I should be capable of diagnosing the SRS error. I find it peculiar that there are flaws attributed to non-existent oecus. Perhaps it is merely an anomaly associated with the China Delphi CDP clone? The anomaly regarding the VIN is peculiar. The "read VIN" function correlates the vehicle with the V5C paperwork; however, CDP recognises the VIN as a W203 CLC from 2008 onwards.

Initially, I must mention that I am utilising a China Delphi CDP Autocom to diagnose and erase errors. I suspect the vehicle is a W203; but, upon reading the VIN, Delphi identifies it as a 2008 CLC, which it absolutely is not. The SRS malfunction appears to be caused by significant resistance in the driver's airbag. I will examine the connector after the rain ceases. Multifunction diagnostics indicate numerous defects; nonetheless, it appears that all components of the vehicle are functioning well. The system is indicating parking aid malfunctions, despite the absence of parking sensors in the vehicle. This is the SAM list. The vehicle was operational, hence I am uncertain as to why I am experiencing simultaneous overvoltage and undervoltage conditions. Is there a comparable defect list from "Front SAM"? Multifunction (SAM - Rear (Signal Acquisition and Control Module - Rear) - SAMH203 (Signal Acquisition and Control Module - Rear) - MT/AT) B1043 - Terminal 30: undervoltage < 8 V - Permanent B1093 - Malfunction in CAN communication with control unit Left frontal entrance. If a fault code appears without any documented complaints or problems, clear the fault memory and conduct a function check - Permanent B1045 - Permanent Overvoltage B1078 - Communication fault with alarm signal siren, possibly due to an additional battery issue or cable malfunction. - Indelible B1044 - Terminal 30: permanent undervoltage below 10.5 V B1066 - Left turn signal; short circuit or open circuit - Permanent B1089 - Malfunction in CAN communication with the instrument cluster control unit. If a fault code appears without any documented issues or malfunctions, clear the fault memory and conduct a functional check - Permanent B1054 - Left stop light; short circuit or open circuit - Permanent fault B1091 - Malfunction in CAN communication with the AAC pushbutton control unit. In the event of a fault code appearing without any documented complaints or failures, clear the fault memory and conduct a functional check. - Enduring

I suspect that the parking brake was engaged during the reset. Did they replace both the front and rear brake pads?

What symptoms are you experiencing?