MotoGravity

I appreciate the automobile. I can tolerate the bothersome EU driver assistance features; nevertheless, I have a concern over the average speed camera notifications. Contextual information. I reside along the A2, making its use for commuting a frequent activity. There are average speed cameras at my crossroads. I like that it can monitor and compute my average speed, which is unprecedented for me! Nonetheless, there exists an extensive stretch of road leading home where the perceived average speed is 40, despite it being 50. Once it detects the camera and identifies it as a speed average, it will begin beeping because I am above 40. Indeed, I have silenced the speed restriction. The HUD displays a red speed of 48 and an average speed of 45, both in red. I have conducted an experiment, and when I decrease my average speed to 44, it turns yellow but continues to beep. When it decreases further to 42/43, it will cease beeping (still amber). When the average speed reaches 40, the hue transitions from amber to green. Currently, the speed signs indicate a limit of 50. I have seen information indicating that the KIA map supersedes the road speed signs, and this seems to be accurate. Is anybody aware of or experienced with other KIA models that allow the deactivation of average speed alerts? Does anybody have suggestions for a daily 10-minute beeping journey? I must contact KIA to request a map update. I seek assistance.

My inquiry is to whether the RAC representative would have continued his search if the gas station lacked a Greggs, until he located one that did.

Ensure you get thicker head gaskets in the appropriate ratio. If the head is resurfaced. I had head resurfacing and now need bigger head gaskets.

I successfully updated mine using Toolbox late last week. No problems; it was pretty simple when I got a fresh version of Toolbox.

I own a Toolbox record from when my wife's Mazda 2 had normal upgrades, which are now over three years old, incurring a fee for her updates. I will log in and verify later. The supplying dealer said that the most recent update for the UK (and maybe Europe) was issued in December 2023 and assured that he would provide updates should I encounter any issues. He also said that the CX-30 upgrades are complimentary for five years; I thought it was just three years.

I have owned my UK CX-30 since October 22 and have not received any communication from Mazda about Sat Nav upgrades. My wife has gotten many emails from Mazda about upgrades for her Mazda 2, but I have not received any correspondence. Has anybody received normal notifications from Mazda about Sat Nav upgrades for their CX-30? Thank you.

Typically, when I use my automobile, I drive for over twenty minutes with little idle time. On average, I cover around 20,000 miles every year, and it was only in the previous year that I began doing more journeys that exceed 300 miles in each direction. This implies that the battery's level of charge often remains rather high, and there have only been a few occasions when I did not use it enough to need overnight charging with my smart-charger. Below is the battery test I conducted on it in late June. When examining this, one of the crucial metrics to consider is the SOH (state of health). The health evaluation of the battery at 87% indicates that there is a certain degree of deterioration in the plate and electrolyte, resulting in the battery being effectively "13% smaller" than its original capacity. Although the battery does not undergo a physical change in size, a portion of it ceases to contribute to power production. A 13% loss after three years is commendable. Once the state of health (SOH) of the battery reaches 70%, indicating a 30% loss, it will be nearing the end of its usable lifespan for me, but still seeming to function well for other users. The CCA (Cold Crank Amperage) is another parameter that garners significant attention from everyone. The original battery has a Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) rating of 520, and it is essential for the user to input this value accurately in order for the instrument to provide accurate results. The user must also determine the battery type, and for my North American car, the original equipment (O.E.) battery is an Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery. Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) As the battery ages and undergoes natural degradation, it is logical that the energy output of the battery decreases. The CCA of my battery was measured at 483, indicating a loss of 37 Amps. However, what is the true significance of that? It signifies that the battery has the capacity to produce that amount of energy for a duration of thirty seconds at a temperature of 0 degrees Fahrenheit (-17 degrees Celsius). Previously, when assessing a battery using the carbon pile load tester, we would extract 50% of the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA), which in this instance amounts to 260 Amps, for a duration of fifteen seconds. Subsequently, we would allow the battery to regain its strength, typically taking around thirty seconds, before subjecting it to another fifteen-second load. At the conclusion of the test, we would record the voltage of the battery just prior to terminating the assessment. Subsequently, based on the battery's temperature, we would consult a chart and ascertain the battery's state. Subsequently, it became imperative to replenish the battery by restoring all of the expended energy. Modern battery testers use a distinct method whereby they rapidly activate and deactivate a load, monitoring the subsequent change in battery voltage, and using sophisticated mathematical calculations to provide the final result. It provides us with a single piece of information that was previously unattainable, which is the internal resistance of the battery. The original equipment (O.E.) battery is in great condition, with a resistance of 5.95 milliohms (0.00597 ohms), which takes into account the battery cable clamps. I will include an additional examination. The tractor in question is a John Deere 1025 model, which has reached the age of five years. Ensure that you have a printed report when you have your battery checked, and thereafter post it to the group. This would provide an opportunity for individuals to assess the rate at which their own battery is deteriorating in comparison to others.

It seems that the majority of the items that suit me are neither useful or valuable to me. However, I see the aforementioned amenities as mere accessories, rather than the primary motivation for purchasing the automobile. The primary purpose of the vehicle is to provide a satisfactory long-distance driving experience, which it does well. However, I must confess that I seldom use its maximum capabilities. I am still unable to use the adaptive cruise control feature. Despite attempting to use it on many vehicles, I still lack confidence in its functionality. I prefer the older version of cruise control, similar to the one I had on my previous W201 model. Disclaimer: I have a strong inclination towards my established habits and now prefer walking over driving. When I have to travel within the local area, I prefer to use my vintage (1970) Ford pickup truck, which lacks complex technological systems and has low fuel consumption. I save the usage of my Mercedes for longer journeys (over 100 miles) and vehicle gatherings. Indeed, the most recent occurrence of it going out was at Benz on the Green in early May. This enhances the significance of the event for me, since the environment remains quite pleasant and conducive to relaxation. Apologies for my digression.

Thank you for your kind expression of gratitude.

I utilise the string variety, specifically purchasing those that are marketed as a permanent fix rather than a temporary one. I am uncertain whether there is really any difference, but it provides me with a sense of comfort! Ever since I found out about string repair kits, I have not had to use a spare tyre. I have consistently carried a compact 12-volt compressor to expedite the process of repairing and inflating the tyre, which is more time-efficient than replacing the wheel. Clearly, they are ineffective for repairing sidewalls. The insert tool shown by is not the tool I use. My kits include a screw-like file that can be used to expand a hole to a size that allows the string to pass through. There is also a more pointed tool that is used to feed the string into the hole, and once inserted, the string remains in the hole after a sharp and quick pull. The thickness of Toeknees' body hindered the ease of pushing through, which likely explains why his considerable power was able to bend it.

I was on the verge of publishing when I unexpectedly came upon this. I am in need of a spacious SUV to replace my present 2012 Q5, and it seems that the Mazda CX90 or CX70 would be suitable for my requirements.I can forgo the usage of the 3rd row, but if necessary, I can easily fold it down and use it just if needed. Having thoroughly reviewed all the problems they have had, I am quite apprehensive about taking the risk. While I get that these concerns may arise due to the novelty of these products, it is somewhat alarming. I was contemplating the PHEV option, however I am apprehensive about seeing the troublesome hybrid error notice. Among the three vehicles I test drove, namely the CX90 PHEV, Palisade, and Pilot, the Mazda stood out as the superior choice in terms of driving pleasure.The Palisade has superior technological features, offers a smoother ride, but its general dependability is subpar. Neither they provide hybrids nor does Honda. I was also considering a Toyota GH Hybrid MAX, but they are very rare to come across, and when you do locate one, the price increases are exorbitant. Do you still believe it would be advisable to purchase one now or should we wait till all the problems have been resolved? Would the CX70 (without a 3rd row) PHEV be my preferred choice?

I concur, since I have a strong affinity for animated infographics, and will now proceed to just enjoy the automobile.

The visual representation of the symbols under the ready/not ready text remains unchanged in all scenarios. 1. My regular commute in a semi-urban area takes around 45 minutes each way, which may not provide sufficient opportunity for the system to function well. 2. Upon receiving the vehicle, the dealership notified me of a software upgrade, but they were unable to implement it due to warranty restrictions (£180). Could this potentially be a problem? Based on the functionality of the graphics and the depiction of energy flow within the power train, it can be inferred that the system is operational and contributing to enhanced fuel efficiency when driving. However, the occurrence of stop and start signals at traffic lights remains a perplexing aspect. Regarding the automobile, I have a strong affinity for it, however it may lack sufficient power on slopes. We much appreciate any assistance you may provide.

Hello. Thank you so much for your response. The vehicle I own is a 2021 2.0 e-skyactive G MHEV GT Sport manual, which is in the colour soul red. My istop does function, just not consistently. The functionality of this feature is contingent upon many factors, including low temperatures and the state of the battery. I requested the dealership to investigate this matter, and they have replenished my battery and verified the use of the feature. I am intrigued by the functionality of the istop, which is why I have chosen to keep the Energy flow monitor enabled. However, I must acknowledge that I have not yet observed the specific icons that are highlighted. I will investigate this matter tomorrow. Are there any further considerations I should take into account about istop? Anticipating that a steady istop will also contribute to improved fuel efficiency. Thank you in advance.

The istop status on the energy flow metre indicates a state of readiness. However, upon deceleration and cessation, the istop status transitions to a state of unreadiness. What is the information I am lacking? I believed that istop would also function throughout that time, such as traffic signals. I would really appreciate any clarification you can provide.

Thank you, I will attempt it 🙏

I am experiencing the same problem. Have you successfully determined the root cause?According to my Audi technician, the issue might potentially be related to either the timing cover or the valve cover. Hopefully, it is only the timing cover that needs attention. Fortunately, I still have some Audi silicone remaining from a previous timing chain repair on an A5 model.

My carbon parts are original equipment manufacturer (OEM), so let's not deceive ourselves. The upscale wrapping stores provide film that is indistinguishable.

These are the original chrome Gen 1 split spokes for the vehicle. I agree with the use of carbon.

so....😁

I am unsure whether I can connect these BV cameras to my iPhone's Hotspot for WiFi when travelling, since I have unlimited data.

After the issues with my built-in dash cam, I have chosen to purchase a separate front-facing camera. I am considering the Blackvue model advised by Command and would appreciate your insights, experiences, and comments on it.

Occasionally, my device has this issue, and on certain occasions, it may be rather severe, resulting in a time frame of 6 to 10 minutes to resolve. I am unable to operate a vehicle safely due to limited visibility. As previously mentioned by others, use a towel to remove moisture will expedite the drying process. Both of my prior Mazda 6 vehicles likewise exhibited similar behaviour. My newly acquired CX-60 is also exhibiting the same behaviour.