MotoGravity

Greetings to all E63 211 / S211 proprietors and members with expertise in parts. I recently had the cooling lines of my gearbox changed at a proficient independent shop, which found minor leaks in three power steering lines that I requested to be replaced. Regrettably, one of the components is no longer obtainable from Mercedes, which is troubling given its importance and the fact that my vehicle is 18 years old. Refer to the list of lines provided below. I visited the Mercedes Lakeside parts centre, and they confirmed the unavailability. I located a pre-owned item on eBay and placed an order for it. Hose A2114667481. £510 backorder Oil line A2114600043. £279. Hose A2114666981. Unavailable

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I have discovered a 12-volt rotary fuel pump in my workshop, previously utilised in a jet engine. I need to determine the appropriate pipe size to insert into the dipstick hole. I have charged a spare car battery in preparation for operation.

Thank you; that particular item did not up in my prior search before I submitted my post. I believed it was feasible; I am confident I can locate an appropriate pump in my workshop.

I am not scheduled for service until October, but I have seen that the oil level on the dipstick is rising (attributable to the DPF design of this engine, which introduces fuel into the oil). I wish to extract some oil and replace it with fresh oil. Has anyone attempted to remove oil through the dipstick opening?

Thank you, I will review it when I get the opportunity. If it diminishes at modest braking, might it still suggest the propeller? I have perused many discussions on the matter, and individuals often assert that the noise emanates from the middle of the vehicle; but, when I see it, it certainly originates from the front passenger side with the window down. What I shall do to eliminate the brakes as a possibility I will elevate the vehicle and rotate the front wheels to see whether the sound is audible while the propeller is not in motion.

Greetings, everyone. Possess a 2002 C240 with around 39,000 miles on the odometer. Upon executing a left turn, I see a scraping noise emanating from the front left, which ceases instantly upon using the brakes, even mildly. It is audible alone with the windows down. The discs have not been changed in 23 years, however the pads (Brembos) were updated around 10 months ago. Do you have any suggestions? I suspect the discs are worn and need replacement. I will elevate the vehicle at my first opportunity to inspect for any irregularities, such as uneven pad wear or dry sliders. Alignment is necessary due to extensive suspension modifications on the vehicle, including control arms, track rod ends, and struts. Thank you

To clarify, the camera alert is not triggered by the detection of signs; the vehicle would perceive these elements unless the system is off. The camera alert notifies you of a physical camera, sourced from its database, pertaining to speed regulations or average speed monitoring. This is then combined with the speed limit signs, which may be erroneous in this instance.

Thank you, markjay; you are really accurate. I have discovered a method that, although not optimal, resolves my specific issue. Disabling the camera alert in Navigation will prevent the vehicle from using the camera, hence inhibiting the calculation of average speed. It is unfortunate, since I like the camera warning, particularly on unfamiliar routes. The enduring remedy is to notify KIA on this problem on my segment of the route and anticipate its rectification in the next map update. I reviewed other forums on this speed average on the site, but no solutions were provided. I hope this thread will provide a temporary resolution.

I apologise for not clarifying in my post that I am not use any maps. Neither KIA navigation nor Google Maps. This is typical driving, however for some inexplicable reason, it registers the average speed as 40 mph on a dual road with posted speed limits of 50 mph.

Thank you, DMGRS. Indeed, the long press function is ineffective. I am considering addressing this with KIA to see whether there is a broader problem. Alternatively, if it pertains to a KIA map issue, they may do a thorough investigation of this route.

I appreciate the automobile. I can tolerate the bothersome EU driver assistance features; nevertheless, I have a concern over the average speed camera notifications. Contextual information. I reside along the A2, making its use for commuting a frequent activity. There are average speed cameras at my crossroads. I like that it can monitor and compute my average speed, which is unprecedented for me! Nonetheless, there exists an extensive stretch of road leading home where the perceived average speed is 40, despite it being 50. Once it detects the camera and identifies it as a speed average, it will begin beeping because I am above 40. Indeed, I have silenced the speed restriction. The HUD displays a red speed of 48 and an average speed of 45, both in red. I have conducted an experiment, and when I decrease my average speed to 44, it turns yellow but continues to beep. When it decreases further to 42/43, it will cease beeping (still amber). When the average speed reaches 40, the hue transitions from amber to green. Currently, the speed signs indicate a limit of 50. I have seen information indicating that the KIA map supersedes the road speed signs, and this seems to be accurate. Is anybody aware of or experienced with other KIA models that allow the deactivation of average speed alerts? Does anybody have suggestions for a daily 10-minute beeping journey? I must contact KIA to request a map update. I seek assistance.

My inquiry is to whether the RAC representative would have continued his search if the gas station lacked a Greggs, until he located one that did.

Ensure you get thicker head gaskets in the appropriate ratio. If the head is resurfaced. I had head resurfacing and now need bigger head gaskets.

I successfully updated mine using Toolbox late last week. No problems; it was pretty simple when I got a fresh version of Toolbox.

I own a Toolbox record from when my wife's Mazda 2 had normal upgrades, which are now over three years old, incurring a fee for her updates. I will log in and verify later. The supplying dealer said that the most recent update for the UK (and maybe Europe) was issued in December 2023 and assured that he would provide updates should I encounter any issues. He also said that the CX-30 upgrades are complimentary for five years; I thought it was just three years.

I have owned my UK CX-30 since October 22 and have not received any communication from Mazda about Sat Nav upgrades. My wife has gotten many emails from Mazda about upgrades for her Mazda 2, but I have not received any correspondence. Has anybody received normal notifications from Mazda about Sat Nav upgrades for their CX-30? Thank you.

Typically, when I use my automobile, I drive for over twenty minutes with little idle time. On average, I cover around 20,000 miles every year, and it was only in the previous year that I began doing more journeys that exceed 300 miles in each direction. This implies that the battery's level of charge often remains rather high, and there have only been a few occasions when I did not use it enough to need overnight charging with my smart-charger. Below is the battery test I conducted on it in late June. When examining this, one of the crucial metrics to consider is the SOH (state of health). The health evaluation of the battery at 87% indicates that there is a certain degree of deterioration in the plate and electrolyte, resulting in the battery being effectively "13% smaller" than its original capacity. Although the battery does not undergo a physical change in size, a portion of it ceases to contribute to power production. A 13% loss after three years is commendable. Once the state of health (SOH) of the battery reaches 70%, indicating a 30% loss, it will be nearing the end of its usable lifespan for me, but still seeming to function well for other users. The CCA (Cold Crank Amperage) is another parameter that garners significant attention from everyone. The original battery has a Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) rating of 520, and it is essential for the user to input this value accurately in order for the instrument to provide accurate results. The user must also determine the battery type, and for my North American car, the original equipment (O.E.) battery is an Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery. Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) As the battery ages and undergoes natural degradation, it is logical that the energy output of the battery decreases. The CCA of my battery was measured at 483, indicating a loss of 37 Amps. However, what is the true significance of that? It signifies that the battery has the capacity to produce that amount of energy for a duration of thirty seconds at a temperature of 0 degrees Fahrenheit (-17 degrees Celsius). Previously, when assessing a battery using the carbon pile load tester, we would extract 50% of the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA), which in this instance amounts to 260 Amps, for a duration of fifteen seconds. Subsequently, we would allow the battery to regain its strength, typically taking around thirty seconds, before subjecting it to another fifteen-second load. At the conclusion of the test, we would record the voltage of the battery just prior to terminating the assessment. Subsequently, based on the battery's temperature, we would consult a chart and ascertain the battery's state. Subsequently, it became imperative to replenish the battery by restoring all of the expended energy. Modern battery testers use a distinct method whereby they rapidly activate and deactivate a load, monitoring the subsequent change in battery voltage, and using sophisticated mathematical calculations to provide the final result. It provides us with a single piece of information that was previously unattainable, which is the internal resistance of the battery. The original equipment (O.E.) battery is in great condition, with a resistance of 5.95 milliohms (0.00597 ohms), which takes into account the battery cable clamps. I will include an additional examination. The tractor in question is a John Deere 1025 model, which has reached the age of five years. Ensure that you have a printed report when you have your battery checked, and thereafter post it to the group. This would provide an opportunity for individuals to assess the rate at which their own battery is deteriorating in comparison to others.

It seems that the majority of the items that suit me are neither useful or valuable to me. However, I see the aforementioned amenities as mere accessories, rather than the primary motivation for purchasing the automobile. The primary purpose of the vehicle is to provide a satisfactory long-distance driving experience, which it does well. However, I must confess that I seldom use its maximum capabilities. I am still unable to use the adaptive cruise control feature. Despite attempting to use it on many vehicles, I still lack confidence in its functionality. I prefer the older version of cruise control, similar to the one I had on my previous W201 model. Disclaimer: I have a strong inclination towards my established habits and now prefer walking over driving. When I have to travel within the local area, I prefer to use my vintage (1970) Ford pickup truck, which lacks complex technological systems and has low fuel consumption. I save the usage of my Mercedes for longer journeys (over 100 miles) and vehicle gatherings. Indeed, the most recent occurrence of it going out was at Benz on the Green in early May. This enhances the significance of the event for me, since the environment remains quite pleasant and conducive to relaxation. Apologies for my digression.

Thank you for your kind expression of gratitude.

I utilise the string variety, specifically purchasing those that are marketed as a permanent fix rather than a temporary one. I am uncertain whether there is really any difference, but it provides me with a sense of comfort! Ever since I found out about string repair kits, I have not had to use a spare tyre. I have consistently carried a compact 12-volt compressor to expedite the process of repairing and inflating the tyre, which is more time-efficient than replacing the wheel. Clearly, they are ineffective for repairing sidewalls. The insert tool shown by is not the tool I use. My kits include a screw-like file that can be used to expand a hole to a size that allows the string to pass through. There is also a more pointed tool that is used to feed the string into the hole, and once inserted, the string remains in the hole after a sharp and quick pull. The thickness of Toeknees' body hindered the ease of pushing through, which likely explains why his considerable power was able to bend it.

I was on the verge of publishing when I unexpectedly came upon this. I am in need of a spacious SUV to replace my present 2012 Q5, and it seems that the Mazda CX90 or CX70 would be suitable for my requirements.I can forgo the usage of the 3rd row, but if necessary, I can easily fold it down and use it just if needed. Having thoroughly reviewed all the problems they have had, I am quite apprehensive about taking the risk. While I get that these concerns may arise due to the novelty of these products, it is somewhat alarming. I was contemplating the PHEV option, however I am apprehensive about seeing the troublesome hybrid error notice. Among the three vehicles I test drove, namely the CX90 PHEV, Palisade, and Pilot, the Mazda stood out as the superior choice in terms of driving pleasure.The Palisade has superior technological features, offers a smoother ride, but its general dependability is subpar. Neither they provide hybrids nor does Honda. I was also considering a Toyota GH Hybrid MAX, but they are very rare to come across, and when you do locate one, the price increases are exorbitant. Do you still believe it would be advisable to purchase one now or should we wait till all the problems have been resolved? Would the CX70 (without a 3rd row) PHEV be my preferred choice?

I concur, since I have a strong affinity for animated infographics, and will now proceed to just enjoy the automobile.