nimbuye5

Having to retorque the replacement would put me in a similar scenario, however this is my next strategy. Several items I've seen claim to lock the flywheel, but doing so seems to necessitate removing the starter, which in turn seems to necessitate moving the exhaust—something that may be a real pain on a driveway.

No information about a locking tool for this pulley type has been located, and the access is too narrow for an impact. I have breaker bars and the like, but before I make anything, I was wondering how others have dealt with this. Many thanks

I figured I'd start a new topic dedicated to my original quest to locate the source of the problem. Could someone please tell me the easiest way for a do-it-yourselfer or a home mechanic to remove the crank bolt?

In my opinion, you won't know until you take it for a spin. While these vehicles can certainly continue for a great distance, 208k miles is likely over the limit.

The glass sunroof really opens up the cabin, giving the impression of more space and light.

😊Hi there

Negative, I have not. The nearest information I received indicated that the front radar was unable to detect any objects. It was also a clear day. It occurred once and has not recurred thus far. I am uncertain whether your issue would generate any codes. It may be beneficial to investigate it.

The VW 1.4TSi generation was characterised by timing chain elongation and wastegate complications. As previously said, a Mercedes forum is likely not the most suitable venue for obtaining help.

😆

Hello everyone, I have resolved the issue; it was a fuse in the engine compartment.

The vehicle fails to crank entirely; I am enquiring whether the fuel cut-off switch would allow it to crank or not.

I sustained an accident in my 2015 Vito W447. The battery is functional, but when I attempt to start the vehicle, it does not engage; only the ignition lights illuminate. I have replaced the pyro fuse. Has anyone encountered a similar issue? Should the vehicle start with the airbag lights illuminated?

I assert that the specification 135/80/17 - 103M is compatible with vehicles equipped with 18" standard wheels, including a 114.3mm pitch circle diameter and a hub diameter of 67.1mm.

I successfully installed the replacement switch independently; I severed the wires and used a heat-shrink solder connection, which functioned well. Total cost: £55, in addition to a Saturday morning.

To conclude this discussion, it seems that the most economical option for purchasing these items is the BMW spares counter. £55 per unit. In all other instances I examined, the prices exceeded £70.

Your assistance is much appreciated; thank you. The component is priced at $21 on that website, although it appears as £65 at the point of purchase. Indeed!

I have conducted diagnostics and am seeking to replace the boot microswitches on my 2013 E89. Has anybody purchased these recently? I am have difficulty locating them online. Any assistance would be highly appreciated.

To confirm accuracy, I often detach a wheel and measure the disc diameter in situ; sometimes, a visible component number is present on the brake pads, but this is not always the case.

Yes, that is correct

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=PF52-EUR-03-2011-E90N-BMW-318i&diagId=11_3345

Dimensions of bearings provided here

Given that it is 2024, the original battery should be covered under warranty since it is less than one year old.

I will address it tomorrow morning. I really appreciate it.

Do you intend to clean the contacts?

Thank you for your response. I used INPA to decode the codes, but no pertinent information emerged. I should consider acquiring a pre-owned LCM for testing purposes.