Postponing the installation of the factory hitch; opting for the Curt hitch in the meanwhile.

[Black_raven]

I am postponing the purchase of the $2150 factory tow kit (including parts and labour costs in California) until we have a genuine need for it in order to tow. Meanwhile, I will be installing a Curt hitch from e-trailer.com for my bike rack that will be installed on the hitch. Are there any complications or problems associated with doing this task? Will it interfere with the installation of the original one in the future?

[honeycut_mazda5]

A Class III hitch is the same as a Class III hitch. I intend to install both the Factory Harness and the Curt Hitch.

[Black_raven]

Thank you. Is it correct that the tow mode option in mi-drive for Preferred Plus trims is enabled by the factory harness?

[honeycut_mazda5]

Accurate.

[WanderlustGuru]

I purchased the Mazda hitch, harness, and delivery from My Mazda Part for a total of $600. The brake control harness would be more expensive than the brake/turn-signal version I purchased and would need a more complex installation process.
I have completed the installation of the hitch, but I have not yet installed the harness. I completed the task alone in around 3 hours. I would not describe it as effortless. Installing the side panel sections was easy, however, the hitch is rather heavy and aligning it properly to avoid cross-threading the bolts is somewhat cumbersome.
The factory hitch utilises pre-existing threaded holes on the frame. There is a YouTube video demonstrating the installation of the Curt hitch. The installation process involves using carriage bolts that need drilling holes in the frame.

[Black_raven]

I successfully installed the Curt hitch independently, but had difficulty when it came to aligning the hitch for the side bolts. I used a footstool to provide support to the farthest extremity. This elevated the hitch while reducing its angle if it had been positioned on the ground. I managed to initiate the insertion of the first side bolt, however it proved challenging to commence owing to the friction caused by the hitch's mounting hole. Subsequently, I applied force to the other end of the object, similar to how I did with the first one, successfully securing the bolt in place. The most cumbersome task was the process of polishing the intermediate holes on the frame in order to install the components. I suggest using a double-cut straight shank burr bit. Double-cut bits have a higher cutting speed and provide a much smoother result compared to single-cut bits. Additionally, use your drill at its maximum rotational speed. Low revolutions per minute (rpm) will cause the drill bit to skip and produce a chattering sound. I recommend having an 11/16 socket with a deep design available, since the bolts protrude too far for a standard socket to access the nuts. This may need a visit to Home Depot throughout the process. In general, the installation process was successful and I am satisfied with how well everything fits and appears. The tolerances set by Curt are precise.

[DMGRS]

I purchased the stock hitch and wiring from the online parts shop of my local Mazda dealership at a reduced price.
The original Mazda hitch had a price of around $400, while the factory 7 round wire harness was priced at $150.
I intended to do the installation myself, but they proposed a fee of $350.
Due to my lack of knowledge about the attachment of the driver's side rear trim panels and my concern about potentially causing damage, I decided to accept their offer to do the task, since it requires accessing the area near the back door.
Towing mode can only be activated after connecting the trailer wire.