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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162766874158?epid=10041420407&itmmeta=01HXPKGQYEAZA0GA5XBFTPYZ0K&hash=item25e5a9662e:g:vtIAAOSwFo5lnmg~&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4JyzMcGz0mC8srrmQHZBhtgloo2WNacePHV2HFcJnHvOauz6v7LqYXu9UfBqKxVZlRaW1bd/tXpjJf0zHxRY10+0noC7S1d1UA9ZgeYUy+uyN/yfCQ7dIaaGo/eHK0l2wotAMjvbxMijwlwLIkQUAtpqE8+gaEjSR3HdblwauZx3/1vcfJmogRGfdLh7LPwKVHQer7GcCpPmJ9URFyjkm2Mho7/w+5GbxEq5K4En/SrnPMfdWpOUrG4mxl5EYjQVy5Md5Vy9wkWFskPGh8rYfXtELvj27EVpbQkUy+/XM/5e|tkp:BFBMrP_C0-1j&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X44f1adde54fadc3ac272c30af9910e4d&subId2=15

Would this be the one?

A fluid checker is available on the Opie Oils website. It's called CHF11s or something similar, and MB Parts will sell you a litre of it.

I noticed the body was sitting at its normal height the second I stepped outside today, so I went ahead and checked to see if it would bounce. It did not! I started the engine carefully and saw no warnings, so I went for a short run to make sure everything was OK. The car handled and drove perfectly without my touching the height/lower or sport settings; I figured it was best to just let it be. Upon returning home, I verified that the ABC fluid level was sufficient; nevertheless, it appeared somewhat low on the dipstick, not quite full but not quite empty either. Is it possible that this is the source of the problem? If so, which oil or fluid should I get to replenish it? I was searching online, but there seem to be a lot of options. Much obliged.

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An ex-MB technician named Alex from legitstreetcars.com is currently tackling a V12. You may find his work on the ABC system and how to remove and strip down an engine to replace a £1 'o' ring in his content. Although you can jump to the parts concerning ABC, it is worth watching all of his films that deal with the CLK. Not everyone is brave enough to deal with issues with earlier ABC systems. My wish is that you uncover the truth.

There were instances where valves had to be replaced due to struts being jammed when the ABC-system was implemented. Mercedes came up with the "Rodeo test" after giving it some thought. Using Xentry, we subject the system to stress by jolting the vehicle and listening to its vibrations. problem codes. By evaluating the ABC system's capabilities, any malfunctions are exposed. Additionally, the rodeo test "lubricates" the struts and valves and removes any dirt from the oil system. Changing the ABC oil (and filter) at normal intervals is crucial. There was absolutely no interval mentioned on the M/Y2000, at least! In its original state, hydraulic oil is odourless, translucent, and verdant. The time for changing has come if the oil is cloudy, smells bad, and has a greyish hue. The filler cap is where you can find the filter. Upon completion, it turns white (or a pale green). The pulsation damper is likely to be worn out after around 10,000 kilometres. Testing it is a breeze. Turn the engine over while it is at a complete stop in neutral gear. To replace the pulsation damper, listen for a rumbling sound that goes away when the engine speed reaches around 1800 RPM. Making sure the ABC system is in good working order is crucial. Metal fragments might enter the system if the pump were to break due to contaminated oil. Fixing it will cost a big penny. Before anything else, make sure the oil is clean on any CL (or prospective purchase). Parking a vehicle that gradually lowers itself is OK, but only up to a certain point. I raised my CL, placed a bundle of wood blocks behind the service pads, and then dropped it to store it for the winter. Therefore, there was no strain on the struts and the tires did not become flat.

Greetings everyone; As I rounded a bend on my way home this evening, the words "ABC Visit Workshop!" flashed on my dashboard. Now I'm a little confused. Worryingly, I felt the vehicle begin to bounce and feel extremely floaty the second I received the message. Fortunately, I was rather close to my house, so I sprang out of the running car as soon as I pulled onto the driveway and saw it sitting proudly on its highest suspension point. As soon as I applied pressure to the vehicle, its body effortlessly jumped up and down. I returned to the vehicle, shook off the shock, and then shut off the engine, waiting a minute or two before starting it again. The automobile rose up without a hitch when I clicked the raise button; but, when I got out, it was obvious that the suspension was still set to its highest setting, and the bounce was still present. There were no longer any cautions because the ABC message on the dashboard had vanished. The original warning had white text instead of red. If anyone has any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it because I had the rear shocks changed approximately four months ago. The vehicle's front and rear ends are still elevated. Much obliged.

I understand your point, but after working in a number of factories, I've noticed that most products, OEM or not, are made in the same factory, using the same machines, and sometimes even on the same day. I always make sure to get a parts warranty in case something goes wrong. I'm hoping this is the problem, but it's mostly just a test to see how stretched the chain is and how much work I'll have to do. If it's not, I'd rather spend £25 now than hundreds of pounds later to find out the problem is severe.

I wouldn't recommend installing a non-OE or OEM part from the internet because there's a chance that it comes with the wrong spring or other components. During the servicing, ensure that an FAI or BMW kit is used, which includes the vanos sprockets, guides, etc., as these are known to function well right away. There may be problems with the sprockets on other brands.

Yes, but only at around 3000 revs. When I used new oil, it settled, but it comes back when the oil is warm. I'm using the original stock tensioner and would like to upgrade. I have a service appointment in two weeks, so I will get the timing chain done then. I'm doing the tensioner to determine how stretched the chain is. I sought advice because it's hard to find a tensioner with attached dimensions. BMW wants more than £50 and needs to order one, while everyone else offers networking options for £20–£30 and next day.

The most recent FAI full TC kit is included with it. Is the tensioner the only part you need? You should be able to find one at the BMW dealership in your area. I don't see why it's only the tensioner. Can you hear the chain swishing?

Where can I find the tensioner that has been upgraded? I own an R57

Am I looking at the right battery? The local motor factor gave me a battery based on what their system indicated should be on there, which might sound foolish. It had trouble cranking when I returned it to Motor Factor, so they contacted the manufacturer, who informed them that my battery had a higher specification because it had all the possible extras. Nothing has gone wrong with the new battery; it appears identical to the old one, but it has a hundred more CCA. You risk damaging your alternator if you don't inform the ECU that you've installed a new battery.

Actually, you won't be able to verify anything with a multimeter continuity test unless you happen to have one on hand. The only thing you can do is check the voltage at the jumper connection; if it drops while cranking, the problem is further back. Poor connection between the main power wire and the jump point/starter cable has caused the jump point termination to shatter in the past.

Ensure a secure connection at the jump point.

Is there a way to test the cable to determine if it's bad? I noticed the bolted connection going through the battery well seemed dirty, but I cleaned it out. The cable on the engine bay side seems fine.

Since it drops to practically nothing while cranking under heavy load, there must be an issue with the main positive somewhere. Verify the location of the jumper wire where it ascends from the brake servo. Take off the scuttle trim piece. Was the area in the boot where the positive cable from the battery joins to the one that travels to the front of the car examined? It's possible that it's corroded.

Taking into account the positive leap and the left-hand engine bay earth point It's getting dark and chilly, so I only checked the engine to chassis ground strap, but I also fear a poor connection between the rear battery and the engine bay. I also checked bad earths.

There is either an issue with the earth or the positive connection between the battery and the jump point connector. Where did you ground the multimeter lead when measuring at the jump point?

I should probably include the codes detected on the car as well. It seems like none of these are really important and are likely caused by the electricity not being distributed correctly to the car: The following information is displayed: ID, Status, and Description: | | 1A2002 | Intermittent| The electric fan may activate for a variety of reasons, including a short circuit to ground, an open circuit, a communication fault, an intermittent LIN message indicating that the alternator is missing, and an intermittent error code of 0DA451. We did not receive a communication regarding the real steering torque driver actuator 10.0.0. When it came to the electric fan, I made sure it was spinning smoothly under load by turning on the air conditioner to full speed and other conditions. I also watched the fan activation percentage on the reader, and it moved up and down in sync with the reading.

Greetings everyone, Just had trouble starting the car; I noticed it a few weeks ago, but being the slothful person that I am, I replaced the battery in the hopes it wasn't holding charge—a 200 pound error. I believe I've isolated the problem to a power delivery issue after dragging myself out of bed one evening to conduct some diagnostics. This is a list of all the symptoms I'm experiencing. The other day, I left my car running overnight, and it started up again when I got in the morning. I took it for a short trip, and then, just five minutes after turning it off, it still wouldn't start. The voltage on the battery was 12.45 volts. A second battery can be used to jumpstart the vehicle using the front jump ports. Analysed voltage: 14.5 volts Assuming the vehicle is not in sleep mode, the current draw is 70 milliamperes. After removing the IBS sensor, the push-to-start function still does not work; the relay clicks audibly. The following readings were recorded when the voltage under load and crank was measured directly from the battery in the boot: turned off at 12.6 volts 1.25 volts for ignition and 12.2 volts for cranking for measurements taken at the front jump ports starting at 11.6 volts with a 0.4 volt cranking electrical system When I tried to start it with jump leads after transferring the battery from the back boot to the engine block, I heard a clicking sound reminiscent of a machine gun. I've heard that the positive cable that runs from the battery to the engine compartment is faulty. Conversely, I believe the automobile should have started because the battery was connected to the battery jump starters. I'd be very grateful for any recommendations or suggestions for items to try. Even though I enjoy a good puzzle, I am completely overwhelmed by this one. Though

Naturally, both the Mercedes-Me account and the mobile app are free; you are under no obligation to pay for the supplementary subscription services. 'Free' implies that you'll have to part with some personal information to use it, but that's also the case with Facebook, X, LinkedIn, and so on.

It is really appreciated. While I can understand how some people could profit from Mercedes-me's services, I just don't see myself using them, even if I have an account with them. But I was wondering how Mercedes' data prices stack up against the industry standard. The available WiFi functionality seems to have been patched together by Hermes (unless you opt to purchase data from Mercedes). Maybe I'm being a bit cynical, but I wonder if the lack of WiFi on the go is because people could use alternatives like Google Maps or Waze instead of the navigation program or Apple Play?

MB may or may not be on the Vidafone network in the UK depending on the current situation. Technically speaking, GSM devices can function even without a SIM card; in fact, you can use a SIM-free phone (but only to dial emergency services) and still make GSM voice calls. Mobile phone companies won't let your device use their network to make calls unless they have the correct billing information, which is stored in the SIM card. So, the subscriber data is hardcoded into the communications module and identifiable by the vehicle's VIN; a SIM card is thus unnecessary for the vehicle. In the same vein, the idea of contemporary "eSims" is to store subscriber data on the phone rather than the SIM card. Before you can pay for services, you'll need to register your vehicle's VIN and create an account with Mervedes me online. At that point, you'll be able to view all of the car-related services that are for sale. Subscriptions will be required for all of these.