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Do regular code readers show that the HVC heater has failed, even though it should show up on the LR Pathfinder?

Just had to get a new aux battery, relay module, and battery contactor module from LR; I'm still shelling out close to $4,000. It seems that LR doesn't check these things during service or major EV side repairs. I spoke with the wife, and she was unaware that the car's heating worked even when the engine wasn't running. She also mentioned that the heater wasn't always turned on, but left off when the engine started, which she didn't realise was a problem. I lost track of how many times they misdiagnosed or underdiagnosed the car while it was in their workshop for a couple of weeks. They kept plugging it into the LR pathfinder. It was still unusual for me because the cabin heater is off and the engine doesn't start normally.

You can find many explanations online if you look hard enough. It seems that the HVC heater is no longer in use. Considering the vehicle's age, it might also be the Auxiliary battery.

I have just gone for a spin in supposedly fully charged EV mode, with the throttle set to a light setting, in slightly damp but not rainy or cold weather. As far as I'm aware, turning on the fan only heats the seats; otherwise, it starts the engine to warm the cabin. Driving more slowly enabled it to coast as the EV mode changed to "Grey" and the engine started. I put the engine in park after three miles and head to the repair shop. After I turn off the engine and return to EV drive, the engine starts again. I take a short detour, stop for a few minutes, and the engine keeps running. As I near home, the engine switches to EV "Blue" and stops. Seriously, I can handle this shit; once it's in EV, it should stay there. So, what gives?

I visited the independent doctor I've relied on for a long time. They checked for leaks after connecting to their air conditioner. Also mentioned that gas was passed through it. Regarding high-low pressure tests, I am not knowledgeable. After hooking up to diagnostics and checking all fuses, they were unable to locate any problems. I took the kick panel apart to check each fuse individually. Drawing attention to a minor issue with the bonnet release design. Had to go out and get a new handle because it couldn't pull out far enough to release the clip that was holding it in. An auto electrician or main dealer was suggested. The blend doors should be operational, but I will verify just to be sure. Turning the air conditioner on and off used to cause the load on the engine to be visible when the power was drawn, but now I can't see any relationship between the load and engine rpm. Thanks for lending a hand.

Going to halfrawds is where I'm putting my money.

Were the side pressures, both low and high, checked? Modern compressors do not have a magnetic clutch because they modulate internally and run continuously. Reading the pressures is the only way to know how a compressor is operating. Since it is entirely module driven, I highly doubt that there is a traditional relay found in older vehicles. Can we rule out a mix flap problem by checking the heating control's hot-to-cold functionality?

I don't have any knowledge about your car, but you mentioned that you had it re-gassed but were informed it was already filled up? How did they know it was completely gassed? Was that a specialist? Tell me what they did. Was new petrol added? At what point did the cold air stop blowing?

https://www.amazon.ca/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW

Following some guidance, G01 2017 BMW X3 30d After re-gassing, the air conditioner was informed that it was fully gassed and leaking, so it stopped blowing cold air. I will not suspect modules because I paid for diagnostics but did not receive any codes. All fuse assemblies are in good working order. Can I find the air conditioning relay? Would a power probe work to check the clutch on the pump instead of the relay? I have found the fuses on the driver's footwell panel and the rear off-side panel, just to be sure. Can you see any more in the engine compartment? The expenses keep going up, and I recently had to replace the intake because the plastic holes it ran through were worn out from the swirl flaps rod. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Dark side developments and delete kits cost a pretty penny, but you can get them for a third of the price.

After speaking with Peugeot, I learned that they are aware of the outage and are actively attempting to fix it.

https://www.amazon.ca/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Peugeot+car+battery

For the simple reason that the app is consistently subpar; I finally deleted it because the inconvenience of constantly logging in was too great to bear. On the plus side, my phone's battery life is now significantly longer. It has nothing to do with the protests in France and everything to do with the unreliability of Peugeot websites. The electrics in the car are also subpar, so my next vehicle will not be a Peugeot.

https://www.amazon.ca/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Peugeot+car

Is this par for the course for Peugeot? The site has been down for days(!) due to maintenance, which appears to be a major issue (or strike). This is all new to me. Alternately, are they facing criticism similar to that which Delhaize and Carrefour faced, and have they proceeded to shut down operations as Albert Heijn did in the Netherlands? Do you know of any news reports about this? I thought journalists sometimes ride in Peugeots, don't they?

Similarly, in the United Kingdom, you can.

It seems like maintenance has taken out Stellantis's servers. This morning, I was able to reconnect once more.

That's me, too. Is the matter still open?

I suppose it's more likely to be associated with a PHP protocol vulnerability.

Apple iPhone 17, 256GB, SIM Global, Black- Unlocked (Renewed) | Unlocked : Amazon.ca: Electronics

I have been unable to establish a connection between my iPhone and my Peugeot app for the past few days. My App shows " Safari can't open the page because the network connection was lost". For no avail, I've toggled my phone's power on and off and removed and reinstalled the app. Over and over, the same language appeared. How can I get back online? Is this connected to the recent protests in France?

Greetings, I possess only a single key; however, I am contemplating whether it is a security immobiliser issue or if the key itself is the problem. I believe a diagnostic assessment will be necessary. Thank you for your response.

Hello, I appreciate your response; however, my vehicle does not possess that feature. I initially believed it was the issue since it occurred with my neighbor's car. My car also lacks a steering lock, which I assumed was the cause, but it seems that is now standard due to previous complications.

Is it equipped with EIS-type ignition? Occasionally, a malfunctioning EIS may provide you with nuanced (and overt) alerts prior to its total failure, potentially leaving you in a difficult situation. My 2006 C class experienced an incident where, after refuelling, the instrument gauges remained stationary and the windows failed to operate; I drove it home without issue. Over the subsequent days, while parked on my property, I tested both keys at various intervals, yielding inconsistent outcomes, including instances where the engine would not crank; it would have been quite unfortunate had this occurred at the service station. I removed the EIS and dispatched it for repairs; it has functioned well ever since. If your vehicle lacks EIS, I have merely squandered your time. I trust that everything will turn out favourably.