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Audi A3|S3|RS3|e-tron (8V) YR2013-2020: Clearmounts Bracket + Swivel M

This one arrived the other day, and I'm pleased with it so far:

Looking for a MagSafe phone mount that is compatible with the Samsung Galaxy S25 Ultra and has built-in wireless charging for my A3 8v 2014 phone. So that there is minimal wiring from the charging port, I would like it to be positioned in-between the center vents in the dash. Please, anybody, point me in the correct way; I would be eternally grateful.

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Your responses are appreciated. The failure of both headlights' angel eyes occurred simultaneously, leading me to believe that it is not the bulbs. But I will look into them and get back to you as soon as I can.

And another one on the light bulb. Upon reaching that corner, the car detects that the bulb is out and turns on the indicator. No turning on the indicator as a secondary light, if you catch my drift, because I don't think a faulty module would be able to tell when the light bulb went out.

Has the most basic thing been tried, like using different bulbs?

After doing some research before posting, I came across a thread on this forum. I must ensure that the modules housed within the wheel wells are not to blame. Before I can accomplish this, it will take some time.

Hi there, My 2003 E39's "angel eyes" stopped functioning. Because this appears to be a failure mode, turning on the side lights now dims the light on the front indicators. Lucky for us, the xenon headlights are fully functional. Is anyone familiar with the problem's potential origins and potential solutions? I appreciate your assistance in advance.

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Like you, I've been in a similar situation at roundabouts before. Shrubbery blocked the entrance on my right, and I was about to take the first left exit. Suddenly, cars started zipping by, and the orange chevrons told me to wait until they cleared. That saved me from almost hitting a car on one occasion when the entrance was blocked and in my blind spot.

Thanks, I had no idea about that. Seems a little pointless to me; when I'm at a crossroads and can only see the road ahead, I wonder if I should even be behind the wheel, haha.

They are irrelevant to your indicators 👍 and show when traffic is entering from the left or right (usually at intersections or roundabouts).

Amazon.co.uk : GR sport

Until this morning, I had no idea that my GR Sport's head-up display could display an orange turn indication. I've had the bike for over a year now. It was completely incorrect, though. Since there was no one following me, I decided to play around by indicating left and trying four different ways, but the HUD always showed the wrong one for each input. Who else has experienced this? Am I required to have HUD indicators? I've never had them before and was wondering if they were necessary. I'll have them checked when my MOT is due.

Vehicles with damaged tires and factory seconds have been returned to me. Although I did not discover any defects, I did find one flaw that allowed me to save money. No one seemed to care about the dealers. Anything with tread and the ability to legally be driven on streets was considered acceptable. It all comes down to the dealer's level of greed. Some of my friends have been hit with charges related to tyre wear. Buying a car makes everything seem to flow more smoothly.

There were no problems the last time I did this with my previous leases. I believe the off-brand tires that came on my previous Mazda6 lease from Walmart were installed a few years ago. So long as they meet the specifications, I don't perceive any problems. After that, I doubt it will be a major issue (like matching the speed rating), particularly if you're using all-season tires or the norm in your region.

I see that you're on a tight budget and are looking for reasonably priced tires to ensure a smooth lease return. Even though it doesn't specify a brand, have you verified if the rental agreement specifies a minimum speed or load rating for the tires? Others may be able to suggest a set that passes the test if you include those details.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=tires

Approximately 26,000 miles later, the wear bars on three of my tires are getting close to being worn out. After slamming into a metal bar, I did need to replace one at about 8k miles. Since it isn't financially prudent to keep the vehicle, I need to find an affordable tyre to last me through the lease. I am hoping to install some basic tires before winter, but I couldn't find anything in the documents regarding tires. I was hoping to find some information about a specific brand of tires. A few thousand miles beyond the lease's end, and I'll have to fork over the extra cash. Have any of you had problems with the dealer after leasing cheap tires? At Walmart, I can get four tires put on for around $600.

Even though my E91 is fully functional, I will not disassemble it to check the voltage while turning off the radio. With the original head unit, amplifiers, etc., I also have. Is the voltage still not being measured when the radio is turned on? After you installed the aftermarket head unit, did you connect this wire to the amp on signal? When you fixed the broken wires before, what colour were they and how did you do it? So, you fixed the four wires inside the gaiter using solder or crimps, or you replaced their entire length so the joins were on opposite sides?

Yes, it was. The sequence of events was... Purchase vehicle Repair electrical wiring Go for a month's drive? Occasionally securing Not securing Since then, updated... Currently, we have replaced or repaired everything as mentioned earlier and used the voltage figures from earlier. Honestly, I'm at a loss. To be sure my 6th pin/black red wire is supposed to be 0v when the car is sitting idle with nothing on, etc., I would greatly appreciate it if someone with a fully functional E91 could double-check the voltages.

In the right boot gaiter, I think there might be a few faulty wires going to the diversity module. I thought you had finished the job, but now it seems to have gone wrong again.

I'm about to lose it. The keyless entry system is inoperable, and the radio is unable to receive a clear signal from any station. On my laptop, I have run ISTA code checks, but no results have been returned. Just so you know, the car's central locking was completely inoperable when I initially purchased it. In order to fix the wiring and get the doors to work, I had to replace the locks. Driving and using the car have been the only activities since then. From always locking at range, to sometimes working, to now not working at all, the only ways to open the door are to use the metal blade, which triggers the alarm, or to press a button inside the car, or to remove the key from its slot. I had the alarm set up to sound an alert when it was activated or disarmed at first. Likewise, that is now ineffective. The key fob is missing a frequency, according to a locksmith. The vehicle seems to be ignoring it. So, when I look at the voltages on the diversity antenna, I see 12v (red with a yellow trace), 4v (yellow with a blue trace), 0v (red with a black trace)—which one is right? Activated wire for cars, etc. With the exception of the aftermarket stereo, the car is completely stock; the central locking system was initially compatible with both the stock and aftermarket stereos. I have taken care of the following... A variety of antennas Wiring for the Boot Hinge (Rear Only) Two ground straps fastened to the boot lid (the ground is linked to the new ground wires and DA nuts). Power source for vehicles Battery for key fob (sends signal) I checked and replaced the fuses. Replacement of door lock actuators Specifically, it is a 2009 LCI 320D E91. Non-comfort access. If needed, I can provide the VIN. I would be eternally grateful for your guidance; I am in dire need of any advice you can provide. It would mean a lot to me if you could correct me or ask me questions because I could be completely wrong. You have my utmost gratitude.

It might be worth checking out carmin.com, though I'm confused by the diagrams there.