All Activity

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW+turbocharger

Is the odour diesel or exhaust, as they are distinct? If there is an odour of exhaust, inspect for indications of soot surrounding the turbo VNT arm.

I acknowledge that, but I am curious if anyone has encountered a comparable situation and could guide me accordingly; I am fairly certain that individuals are familiar with the scent of diesel.

It is impossible to detect odours via the internet. Uncertain about how anyone might assist.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW+M+Sport

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW

A man requires assistance. 😂😂 I possess a 2015 BMW 118d M Sport, and for the past few months, following the installation of my flexi pipe, there has been a diesel/exhaust odour permeating the cabin. I have taken it to the garage, but they were unable to detect any exhaust leaks and found no indications of leaks under the hood; the smell is primarily noticeable at idle or low speeds, as well as during reversing. I have removed my induction kit and reinstalled the original air box in hopes of finding a solution, but it has not worked; I am at a loss regarding where to investigate further without incurring additional expenses on the vehicle! Do you have any suggestions?

You will need to disassemble and remove the right-hand bootlid light if you do not have a key or 12v. To open the boot lid, push the carpet inwards, then locate the cable that operates the latch to the left of the hole. Give it a good tug and the lid will open.

It should work; maybe there's a diesel setting that would be useful, but I'm not sure if you had a good connection with the jump pack. Do you not possess a key that can start the vehicle? because the e46's boot/trunk key is that one.

Odd, because I've done the same thing without the battery.

I attempted to connect a portable jumper with a 1250A rating to the wires under the hood, but alas, it was unable to detect the battery, so it remained inactive. I even attempted to overwrite it. It would have worked if the battery terminals were connected, but I'm stuck without a master key fob and the negative terminal isn't connected.

If you happen to have jumper cables and an additional vehicle on hand, you can power the locks by linking the downer car's battery to the E46 jump points located under the bonnet.

Amazon.co.uk : car battery

Amazon.co.uk : BMW 330i

I just got my e46 330i back from the mechanic, but it was dead and I didn't have the key fob (just the valet key). The cherry on top isn't having to get into the trunk, though. The negative terminal was disconnected by my mechanic. Can I crack it somehow?

A button on the indicator stalk's end allows you to reset the mileage countdown. It has a plethora of content on YouTube.

For complete app access, it's around $80 on Amazon and $40 on Bimmerlink.

The obdlink cx should be in my possession.

OK. I've seen a lot of advertisements for these dongles online, but how do I pick the right one? Cheapest isn't always the best, but I'd rather not waste money on something that isn't essential. Please know how much I value your advice.

Does it really have an obd2 dongle? Is there a way to address that? How much is it, and where can I get some?

ANCEL AD410 Enhanced OBD2 Scanner OBD2 Code Reader Car Diagnostic Tool | Check Engine Light Fault Reader Diagnostic Scan Tool for All OBDII Car After 2002 (Black/Yellow) : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Vgate vLinker BM Plus Bluetooth BLE OBD2 Scanner for BMW/Mini, Works with iPhone & Android Unlock Auto Hidden Functions in BimmerCode, OBD II Diagnostic Tool : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

In my opinion, it must be obd2. In a way, or another. For example, bimmerlink. A bimmlink app and an obd2 dongle are at my disposal. In addition, you can verify sensor data and cell voltage by resetting all services.

I have also done that. It is necessary to reset the service counter after replacing the sensors in order to inform the vehicle that they were replaced. All the way up until then, it will assume that you still require new brakes. Personally, I reset all of that using bimmer code.

Is it something I can plug in, or are you saying I can do it while driving? I have attempted multiple methods to reset it while in the car, but to no avail.