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That is an excellent suggestion; I appreciate it.

I placed a normal 18" CX-30 wheel atop the Bose subwoofer and fabricated an extra 8mm bolt to secure it. Ample space for a tool bag (jack, yellow jacket, etc.) organised around the wheel. Positioned two wooden pieces on the exterior sides of the boot/trunk to stabilise the 'fake' floor atop this configuration. Despite the presence of the thick rubber floor carpet, minimal space is compromised.

Thank you everybody for the valuable information.

Dimensions of spare tires

A 17-inch wheel is acceptable for driving; however, ensure that the subwoofer fits within the wheel's confines. I am unaware about the diameter of the submarine.

If you possess 18" wheels, an 18" steel space saver wheel is required to accommodate the subwoofer. An extended bolt is provided, which passes through the subwoofer and wheel, securing into the boot floor where a welded nut is present. Disconnect the subwoofer lead, remove the subwoofer, and position the wheel accordingly. Subsequently, place the subwoofer within the wheel and fasten the assembly using the extended bolt. The lead will trail over the side of the tire and connect to the subwoofer.

I assert that the specification 135/80/17 - 103M is compatible with vehicles equipped with 18" standard wheels, including a 114.3mm pitch circle diameter and a hub diameter of 67.1mm.

Upon receiving the car, I desire to have a temporary spare wheel prepared for installation. I will not be acquiring the authentic Mazda kit due to its cost exceeding £600, but I require information on its compatibility with a Bose subwoofer and whether padding is necessary between the subwoofer and the spare wheel.

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Numerous friction material deposits were present at the bottom of the pan; however, the mechanic who replaced my ATF and filter reported that the interior of the gearbox appeared pretty clean.

The ATF level is accurate and has been verified. The mechanic who conducted the most recent inspection of the vehicle informed me that there is certainly an issue with the valve body, and it is quite probable that there is also deterioration in the clutch packs. This remains a possibility, as the vehicle has not undergone live data diagnostics; nonetheless, based on the symptoms, multiple individuals have indicated that repairing this gearbox may not be economically viable.

The gearbox exhibited this issue prior to the fluid change. I utilised authentic Mercedes ATF and added a new genuine Mercedes connector plug. Transmission fluid was present within the previous plug. The gearbox pan utilised non-OEM bolts, and the drain bolt was stripped, indicating that an inexperienced individual had previously serviced the gearbox before my acquisition of the vehicle. I have possessed the vehicle for around one year.

When did the difficulties commence? Prior to or subsequent to the ATF modification? Is a reputed oil brand utilised? Is the oil level verified twice? Is the TCU and connecting plug devoid of oil?

Greetings, I want counsel concerning the transmission of my E270 CDI. Below is a comprehensive account of the issue along with pertinent facts that may assist. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN): WDB2110161A309273 Transmission: 722.640 (variant 04) The issue: When the gearbox is cold, the 1–2 upshift might be excessively abrupt and occurs prematurely, approximately at 1600–1700 RPM. However, when the gearbox reaches a temperature of approximately 80–90°C, I have a distinct issue between 2nd and 3rd gear. As the vehicle nears 2000 RPM, the RPM begins to increase autonomously, suggesting a potential loss of hydraulic pressure or slippage in the gearbox, even in the absence of further throttle application. The RPM experiences a little spike and varies for around 2 to 3 seconds until the gear ultimately engages. The gearbox is unable to maintain pressure or execute a seamless 2–3 shift until it "catches" and finalises the transition. The ATF was replaced 500 kilometres ago, along with a new filter and connecting plug. My enquiries: Should I disassemble the gearbox to examine the valve body or clutch packs, or is it more prudent to seek a quality used 722.640 unit? Which transmissions are compatible with my vehicle? Is my vehicle exclusively compatible with the 722.640 gearbox from the 2.7 CDI? Are transmissions from other engines (2.2 CDI, 3.2 CDI, petrol engines) compatible? If they are physically compatible, are they also electronically and hydraulically compatible? Any guidance or insights would be very valued. I appreciate your assistance in advance!

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e I possess the identical vehicle; the handling is intriguing. Dragonslayer evokes memories of a video game on my initial computer

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Hello everyone, I would want to introduce myself to all of you. I am the new owner of a 2020 Niro EV 4 trim. I am now pleased with the car; it is advantageous to have greater range compared to my previous 40 kW Leaf. I have successfully completed a software upgrade, enabling the usage of the Kia Connect app. I have installed new front and rear discs and pads due to rust and glazing. I will change the gearbox fluid next when I get time.

I acknowledge your issue; but, at present, that is the sole manual I am aware of that provides coverage. By joining the 'official' club, the Mercedes-Benz Club, members gain access to the Mercedes-Benz Workshop Information System (WIS) and the Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC), which are the same resources utilised by the dealer network. Mercedes-Benz permits this exclusively to one 'official' club in each country.

I will disassemble the pump this weekend to inspect it and the sprocket cam for signs of wear. A new Pierberg pump, following multiple model revisions, has ostensibly resolved the issues associated with earlier versions; yet, I remain apprehensive about the potential, albeit unlikely, risk of foreign objects entering the engine and interfering with the timing chain.

A friend installed a Honda Blackbird engine in a Smart Fortwo, and due to the Honda engine's insufficient vacuum for the brakes, he incorporated an electric vacuum pump from a Jaguar. That was effective, and while one might be inclined to believe that the smart can be quickly halted, it is not the case without a servo.