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Is there spark, assuming the fuel issue isn't the problem? The ignition circuit consists of relatively few components.

And I can confirm that I have completed both tasks. We just rebuilt the motor, and it still won't start even though the compression is fine.

I apologise if my information is outdated, but it seems like you have already replaced nearly everything that could electrically fix a "crank but no start" problem. Have you ever, for fun, attempted to start the engine by spraying it with starter fluid and seeing if it would run while you kept spraying it into the intake? Is the timing of this engine correct? Have you checked it with a compression test?

I hope it took the following form:

The signal from the camshaft sensor didn't. Crankshaft signal exhibits a substantially distinct pattern

Was this the way it appeared?

I checked the injectors and ignition coils just like you said. Occasionally, they will flash. Additionally, I connected an oscilloscope to the sensor for the crankshaft and camshaft. Both the AC signal and the DC signal from the crankshaft appeared to be in good shape. Following the engine rebuild, he changed out both sensors. We suspected the pcm was at blame because there was a signal going into it but no signal coming out; the voltage input was 12.5v. That means a pcm, a new camshaft and crankshaft sensor, and no fuel injector or ignition pulse.

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It seems like you're saying that the ECU isn't pulsing the injectors properly. Is this something you've confirmed with a noise test? I take it that you mean the engine is turning over, but won't start. Instead of hurling parts at the vehicle, attempt diagnosing it. First things first: check the wiring if you're saying the injector noise test doesn't work.

The engine on my 2000 Tracker is a 2.0-liter Suzuki. After we rebuilt the engine, it started up and ran smoothly, but the rpm gauge began to steadily decrease. We turned the engine off after 20 minutes of good running after replacing the crankshaft position sensor; we would finish the task the following morning. The following morning, while it was still chilly, it sputtered at 100 rpm before dying. Now it won't turn over at all, and the only time the fuel injector pulses are noticeable are very infrequent and insufficient for the engine to start. We checked the grounds and hot wires, replaced the PCM, and sensors for the crankshaft and camshaft. Neither the engine nor the vehicle have any codes. We are at a loss as to what to do next. I need someone to lend me a hand.

I experienced a coolant problem once with my previous Smax. Following extensive contemplation and the utterance of numerous expletives, it was ultimately revealed that the issue stemmed from the coolant cap on the expansion reservoir. A simple solution, yet frustrating due to my oversight.

I have scheduled an appointment with Ford on Thursday for a second opinion; I will inform you of the outcome. I appreciate it.

That is peculiar. Was the heater set to hot during the test? Perhaps 10 psi may not be sufficiently elevated under extreme heat; could it sustain a greater pressure? Assume it does not overheat whatsoever. Merely attempting to consider alternative perspectives on the matter.

I installed a new expansion tank and a new cap from Ford last Friday. What is occurring is utterly foolish. Rearranging a pressure assessment once more. I appreciate it.

If the system maintains pressure throughout, the sole component you have yet to examine is the cap. When subjected to intense operation, it may become excessively hot, potentially causing the cap to fail under elevated pressure. In any case, acquire a new cap. They are exceedingly inexpensive. However, I would refrain from purchasing a Febi product as the recent one I acquired from them was unsatisfactory. Preferably acquire an original equipment manufacturer Ford component.

Affirmative. Conducted a coolant pressure assessment with the engine at elevated temperatures, maintaining a pressure of 10 psi. We are conducting an additional pressure test to verify that nothing was overlooked.

I have no clue regarding the whereabouts of the coolant! We discovered that the pipe connecting the thermostat to the expansion bottle was defective!! I substituted it; I will ascertain today (Sunday) whether the pipe is the culprit!! I appreciate it.

If it is not an external leakage, then it must be occurring internally. Did you conduct a pressure test while the engine was hot and operational? Did you intend to refer to a cylinder pressure assessment? Is the oil level rising? Conduct a pressure examination of the cooling system, particularly the cap.

That appears to be a vexing problem, particularly following the replacement of the radiator and EGR cooler. You indicated that it only overheats and depletes coolant under strenuous driving conditions—have you observed any potential sources of coolant leakage? Elaborating on your observations may assist the individuals here in identifying the root cause.

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Greetings. I possess a 2015 ST diesel engine with 185 horsepower. Encountered a problem with coolant loss; replaced the radiator, EGR cooler, thermostat, and installed a complete timing belt kit, utilizing entirely new components. When driven normally, it operates well; however, under aggressive driving, it overheats and continues to lose coolant, despite a pressure test indicating the head gasket is intact. Has anyone encountered this? I appreciate it.

The identical hue might render yours an even more exceptional specimen… although I do not wish to urge you to expend your hard-earned resources.

I appreciate you sharing this information; I was previously unaware of their existence. I have observed a custom-built version resembling a "Webasto" style, created by the proprietor.