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If testers discover soot at the tailpipe, they will likely scrutinise the DPF to ensure it hasn't been altered, potentially resulting in the vehicle being prohibited from the road until the DPF is substituted!

I would not find this agreeable! As stated by SD, I believe that exhaust analysis is included in the MOT; I recommend enquiring with your MOT center.

Do the MOT inspectors not insert a probe into the exhaust pipe to assess the NoX emissions? I would surmise that the absence of a DPF would result in the emissions failing the examination. I personally would not feel comfortable with it - when is your MOT scheduled?

I believe I have committed a significant mistake. The filter warning indicator illuminated; my reliable mechanic was on vacation, and his "associate" claimed he could repair it, having previously serviced multiple Evoque filters. It appears he has eliminated the filter and reconfigured the computer. He stated that it is unnecessary and will not influence its MOT (2018 HSE 36K miles). It emits a slight amount of smoke when idling at low revolutions while coming to a stop. The repair incurred an expense of £1200. Have I acted foolishly? Must I invest additional funds and reinstall a filter? Guidance requested.

The sensor malfunction arises because the RPM momentarily stabilises for approximately half a second, leading to a rapid temperature increase. I do not believe that the sensor itself is inherently the issue. I sense that there remains an issue with the TCU post-reconstruction, despite the gearbox functioning flawlessly otherwise. It occurs solely in the 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, and 9th gears. Upon aggressive acceleration, as the engine attains elevated RPM levels just prior to the anticipated shift, it enters limp mode. I am contemplating whether there may still be a problem with the TCU or its internal sensors, rather than the sensor itself.

Is it a foolish inquiry to suggest that 4000 rpm is the maximum for a diesel engine, with minimal advantages in exceeding that limit? Have you inspected the wiring connected to the sensor, and was it an authentic sensor provided by Mercedes?

Greetings to all, I am seeking assistance regarding an issue I am experiencing with my vehicle, as I find myself utterly at a standstill. I encountered a problem with the gearbox, displaying fault code P073E00, which is evidently a recognised issue. The gearbox was overhauled to rectify the issue, and subsequently, all functions resumed flawlessly. The gearbox lubricant was replenished in accordance with the manufacturer’s specifications, and the gearbox calibration was performed promptly thereafter. Nonetheless, as I entered the motorway to evaluate the vehicle, I accelerated aggressively during the merge. I observed that when the engine attained approximately 4,000 RPM, it ceased to rev and the vehicle abruptly entered limp mode. It appears to retain approximately 90% of its efficacy, yet the problem is distinctly apparent. It is peculiar that the vehicle operates flawlessly in all other respects. The gearbox operates seamlessly, and there are no issues during standard driving. If I turn off the vehicle and then restart it, all functions return to normal and the car operates flawlessly once more. Nonetheless, if this occurs repeatedly, the engine management light (EML) will ultimately illuminate. I examined the vehicle and the diagnostic code displayed is P054496, which pertains to the temperature sensor 1 within the exhaust system. I originally suspected that this sensor could be the source of the issue, thus I substituted the sensor. Regrettably, the issue persists. I am contemplating whether P054496 is genuinely responsible for the limp mode, or if there might be an alternative underlying problem triggering this fault code. Has anyone encountered a comparable issue, specifically a vehicle that enters limp mode at approximately 4,000 RPM with fault code P054496? Any suggestions or insights would be immensely valued, as I find myself utterly perplexed by this issue at present. I appreciate your assistance in advance! 🙏

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Thank you, I anticipate acquiring further knowledge.

Certainly a two plus two, accompanied by a small boot. The rear seats are primarily intended for the accommodation of luggage. I anticipate the cleaning process, as I believe it enhances one's appreciation for the intricacies and design. Currently, I take pleasure in observing carbon fibre each time I open the door or trunk.

In 2016, I cleaned one of these for a friend and was astonished by the size of the rear seats, resembling a racing jockey's saddle, with numerous components to clean, including the rear quarter ducts.

The initial one is for me.

Thank you, these vehicles are truly exceptional. I eagerly anticipate venturing out so that others may relish it as well. Fewer than 2000 are currently on the roads in the UK, making them an uncommon sight.

Pleasant automobile.

Amazon.co.uk : BMW

Greetings, I have returned with a 2015 BMW i8 purchase. I have previously owned the 3, 5, X3, and X5 models. This will mark my twelfth BMW. It serves as a secondary vehicle for leisure days, vacations and occasionally for school transportation.

Well, that's unfortunate. I wasn't planning on getting my hands dirty by changing out the FRM, but I figured it might be a simple fix.

Do a search on the North American Motorsports Forum; however, I seem to remember that you are unable to do so due to the difficulty. I would assume that it would be necessary to replace the FRM with one that offered that option.

He shows the driver's door from the inside.

As I was attempting to fix a door knocking problem (which is addressed in a separate post), I discovered what seems to be wiring to my driver's side mirror. Does the power fold option use this wiring? Is it possible to install powerfold mirrors in place of the current mirrors, enable them in Bimmercode, and then have them function without the need to fiddle with the wiring?

Much obliged. The system is effective.

Get a head start.

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I am unable to start my CX60. No lights work, and the automobile seems to be dead. How should I proceed?

If this is the consequence of your actions, we will remain in the dark because we do not know what you did, whether intentional or not. Was the door disabled on purpose or did you accidentally turn it off? If the issue is with the door itself, removing the door card—which may be difficult if the door is closed—will be necessary to fix the problem. As an example, I can't do it on my Mk4 Mondeo since the six screws that surround the door card can only be accessed while the door is open. If you can't recall whether you unplugged a rod or something, you might have to rely on your memory.