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The decision has been made. The location was correct, but the pulley was incorrect. That one is pricey. There is a little play in the crankshaft pulley. Two quotations will be written by them. Typically, the optimal option is to use one for the water pump and complete set of pulleys and one for the crankshaft pulley and belt. The choice will be made based on price and the timing of Christmas. To be honest, the kids have been misbehaving the whole year. 😆

I have ramped up the maintenance plan. Each 6,000 kilometres, I change the oil and filter. Every time it's necessary, I change the air filter, cabin filter, and diesel filter by myself. Replaced filters are not my speciality. At this very moment, I am waiting for the garage to finish their diagnostic. I just swapped out the valve cover. Even without the code, I can tell that injector 4 isn't ideal. It seems to me that the intake system might have a tiny leak as well. I am unable to isolate the hiss. Instead of using hydrogen, I'd prefer a thorough disassembly and manual cleaning for my intake. Two of my friends have rave reviews in that area. Regardless, I'm at ease in the waiting room, where there are an unusually large number of attractive women. I will fix the steering rack after I fix all the motor issues. No amount of adjusting has ever corrected the tiny pull to the right. Finally, the rack could be an option. I'm going to start with a fluid change.

In most cases, the water pump will be dangerously hot to the touch; after all, the shaft you touched was carrying water that was almost boiling. Any diagnosis I make will be based on speculation unless I see it. I hope it works out.

Some problems that can arise in OM651s after 100,000 miles or more include: gasket leaks or warped rocker covers; oil cooler leaks caused by failed seals; diesel filter housing leaks caused by brittle plastic pipes; inlet manifolds that start giving trouble; and last but not least, engine timing chain stretch, which is indicated by chain rattle-on-cold-start. Also, EGR coolers can become clogged. You could choose to get everything done at once so it's perfect, or you could fix or replace things as they break. For example, when my inlet manifold leaked oil, I had to remove the diesel filter housing and replace it at the same time. In my opinion, the two most important things are to change the oil at the intervals specified by MB (I change mine every 6,000 miles) and to inspect everything on a regular basis. The reasoning behind this recommendation differs from MB's 40K mile recommendation; according to another piece of advice I read recently, diesel filters should be changed every 20,000 miles to avoid injector problems in engines with higher mileage.

Hi there, Driven by an AMG-pack 2012 E250 CDI S212 waggon. An odour of burning rubber has been detected both indoors and outdoors as of late. So that I can see the strut towers free of rubber dust, I make sure my engine compartment is always clean. The 'touch the pulleys' test popped into my head after perusing all the clues provided by META AI (which is pretty good). My finger burnt on the water pump pulley, but the others were all nice and toasty. This is what I'm calling an intermittent problem that will eventually become a full-blown breakdown. This is the vacuum-activated pump. Even though the temperature gauge occasionally climbed one tick higher than usual, there was no overheating. Is my diagnosis correct? When you lose your belt, you might reach out and grab anything you can get your hands on as it winds up. Trust me, I know the feeling. I would prefer that not to occur. For the next 270,000 kilometres, apart from the pump and belt, what other parts should I replace to make sure it runs smoothly? We gladly accept the opinions of those with more experience. It is appreciated.

🙃🙃🙃

Do regular code readers show that the HVC heater has failed, even though it should show up on the LR Pathfinder?

Just had to get a new aux battery, relay module, and battery contactor module from LR; I'm still shelling out close to $4,000. It seems that LR doesn't check these things during service or major EV side repairs. I spoke with the wife, and she was unaware that the car's heating worked even when the engine wasn't running. She also mentioned that the heater wasn't always turned on, but left off when the engine started, which she didn't realise was a problem. I lost track of how many times they misdiagnosed or underdiagnosed the car while it was in their workshop for a couple of weeks. They kept plugging it into the LR pathfinder. It was still unusual for me because the cabin heater is off and the engine doesn't start normally.

You can find many explanations online if you look hard enough. It seems that the HVC heater is no longer in use. Considering the vehicle's age, it might also be the Auxiliary battery.

I have just gone for a spin in supposedly fully charged EV mode, with the throttle set to a light setting, in slightly damp but not rainy or cold weather. As far as I'm aware, turning on the fan only heats the seats; otherwise, it starts the engine to warm the cabin. Driving more slowly enabled it to coast as the EV mode changed to "Grey" and the engine started. I put the engine in park after three miles and head to the repair shop. After I turn off the engine and return to EV drive, the engine starts again. I take a short detour, stop for a few minutes, and the engine keeps running. As I near home, the engine switches to EV "Blue" and stops. Seriously, I can handle this shit; once it's in EV, it should stay there. So, what gives?

I visited the independent doctor I've relied on for a long time. They checked for leaks after connecting to their air conditioner. Also mentioned that gas was passed through it. Regarding high-low pressure tests, I am not knowledgeable. After hooking up to diagnostics and checking all fuses, they were unable to locate any problems. I took the kick panel apart to check each fuse individually. Drawing attention to a minor issue with the bonnet release design. Had to go out and get a new handle because it couldn't pull out far enough to release the clip that was holding it in. An auto electrician or main dealer was suggested. The blend doors should be operational, but I will verify just to be sure. Turning the air conditioner on and off used to cause the load on the engine to be visible when the power was drawn, but now I can't see any relationship between the load and engine rpm. Thanks for lending a hand.

Going to halfrawds is where I'm putting my money.

Were the side pressures, both low and high, checked? Modern compressors do not have a magnetic clutch because they modulate internally and run continuously. Reading the pressures is the only way to know how a compressor is operating. Since it is entirely module driven, I highly doubt that there is a traditional relay found in older vehicles. Can we rule out a mix flap problem by checking the heating control's hot-to-cold functionality?

I don't have any knowledge about your car, but you mentioned that you had it re-gassed but were informed it was already filled up? How did they know it was completely gassed? Was that a specialist? Tell me what they did. Was new petrol added? At what point did the cold air stop blowing?

https://www.amazon.ca/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW

Following some guidance, G01 2017 BMW X3 30d After re-gassing, the air conditioner was informed that it was fully gassed and leaking, so it stopped blowing cold air. I will not suspect modules because I paid for diagnostics but did not receive any codes. All fuse assemblies are in good working order. Can I find the air conditioning relay? Would a power probe work to check the clutch on the pump instead of the relay? I have found the fuses on the driver's footwell panel and the rear off-side panel, just to be sure. Can you see any more in the engine compartment? The expenses keep going up, and I recently had to replace the intake because the plastic holes it ran through were worn out from the swirl flaps rod. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Dark side developments and delete kits cost a pretty penny, but you can get them for a third of the price.

After speaking with Peugeot, I learned that they are aware of the outage and are actively attempting to fix it.

https://www.amazon.ca/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Peugeot+car+battery

For the simple reason that the app is consistently subpar; I finally deleted it because the inconvenience of constantly logging in was too great to bear. On the plus side, my phone's battery life is now significantly longer. It has nothing to do with the protests in France and everything to do with the unreliability of Peugeot websites. The electrics in the car are also subpar, so my next vehicle will not be a Peugeot.

https://www.amazon.ca/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Peugeot+car

Is this par for the course for Peugeot? The site has been down for days(!) due to maintenance, which appears to be a major issue (or strike). This is all new to me. Alternately, are they facing criticism similar to that which Delhaize and Carrefour faced, and have they proceeded to shut down operations as Albert Heijn did in the Netherlands? Do you know of any news reports about this? I thought journalists sometimes ride in Peugeots, don't they?

Similarly, in the United Kingdom, you can.

It seems like maintenance has taken out Stellantis's servers. This morning, I was able to reconnect once more.

That's me, too. Is the matter still open?

I suppose it's more likely to be associated with a PHP protocol vulnerability.