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Greetings, I possess only a single key; however, I am contemplating whether it is a security immobiliser issue or if the key itself is the problem. I believe a diagnostic assessment will be necessary. Thank you for your response.

Hello, I appreciate your response; however, my vehicle does not possess that feature. I initially believed it was the issue since it occurred with my neighbor's car. My car also lacks a steering lock, which I assumed was the cause, but it seems that is now standard due to previous complications.

Is it equipped with EIS-type ignition? Occasionally, a malfunctioning EIS may provide you with nuanced (and overt) alerts prior to its total failure, potentially leaving you in a difficult situation. My 2006 C class experienced an incident where, after refuelling, the instrument gauges remained stationary and the windows failed to operate; I drove it home without issue. Over the subsequent days, while parked on my property, I tested both keys at various intervals, yielding inconsistent outcomes, including instances where the engine would not crank; it would have been quite unfortunate had this occurred at the service station. I removed the EIS and dispatched it for repairs; it has functioned well ever since. If your vehicle lacks EIS, I have merely squandered your time. I trust that everything will turn out favourably.

It may pertain to the security aspect; are both keys identical in this regard?

I am utterly perplexed by my 2017 C-Class AMG 4MATIC; it functioned flawlessly when parked, yet the following morning it exhibited no crank. The doors unlock, the dashboard illuminates, but there is no cranking action. I have examined every fuse and relay, including the concealed high-powered fuses, all of which are intact. The starter relay receives voltage at pin 30, but there is no voltage at pin 86. I have bypassed the relay, and the vehicle cranks but fails to start; it seems there is an obstruction preventing voltage from reaching pin 86. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

That is logical. I appreciate it!

A recorded consumption assessment at the dealership provides you with tangible evidence should the engine problem intensify.

I shall accomplish that tomorrow morning. Thank you, I am grateful for it!

Convey it to the dealership and request a consumption assessment.

Greetings, everyone. I would like to share my experience with my 2017 Hyundai Tucson 2.0 SE and seek advice on how to potentially obtain a complimentary engine replacement, as it appears to be a clear engineering defect. I have owned this car for more than four years, and it has approximately 174,000 kilometres on the odometer; recently, I observed a significant increase in engine oil consumption (fortunately, I detected this before it completely depleted, or I would have risked a catastrophic engine failure unknowingly). I consulted a reliable garage proprietor who monitored the oil consumption over a fortnight and was astonished to discover that the engine utilised approximately 1 litre per 200 kilometres. I contacted the dealership regarding the issue and requested an engine replacement, but they promptly refused since there is no "Check Engine" light illuminated on the dashboard. Could someone assist me with what actions to take? I appreciate your assistance beforehand!

Amazon.co.uk : BMW DPF

Amazon.co.uk : BMW turbocharger

I would assert that it is primarily an exhaust odour that has persisted since the flexi was replaced; it was emitting between the turbo and DPF, so I replaced the clamp and gasket, yet the smell remains.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW+turbocharger

Is the odour diesel or exhaust, as they are distinct? If there is an odour of exhaust, inspect for indications of soot surrounding the turbo VNT arm.

I acknowledge that, but I am curious if anyone has encountered a comparable situation and could guide me accordingly; I am fairly certain that individuals are familiar with the scent of diesel.

It is impossible to detect odours via the internet. Uncertain about how anyone might assist.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW+M+Sport

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW

A man requires assistance. 😂😂 I possess a 2015 BMW 118d M Sport, and for the past few months, following the installation of my flexi pipe, there has been a diesel/exhaust odour permeating the cabin. I have taken it to the garage, but they were unable to detect any exhaust leaks and found no indications of leaks under the hood; the smell is primarily noticeable at idle or low speeds, as well as during reversing. I have removed my induction kit and reinstalled the original air box in hopes of finding a solution, but it has not worked; I am at a loss regarding where to investigate further without incurring additional expenses on the vehicle! Do you have any suggestions?

You will need to disassemble and remove the right-hand bootlid light if you do not have a key or 12v. To open the boot lid, push the carpet inwards, then locate the cable that operates the latch to the left of the hole. Give it a good tug and the lid will open.

It should work; maybe there's a diesel setting that would be useful, but I'm not sure if you had a good connection with the jump pack. Do you not possess a key that can start the vehicle? because the e46's boot/trunk key is that one.

Odd, because I've done the same thing without the battery.

I attempted to connect a portable jumper with a 1250A rating to the wires under the hood, but alas, it was unable to detect the battery, so it remained inactive. I even attempted to overwrite it. It would have worked if the battery terminals were connected, but I'm stuck without a master key fob and the negative terminal isn't connected.

If you happen to have jumper cables and an additional vehicle on hand, you can power the locks by linking the downer car's battery to the E46 jump points located under the bonnet.