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They have mixed up the plug wires and switched them around between different cylinders. So far as I'm informed, the blame has not been traced. Tomorrow I will also confirm this.

When replacing a coil, wire, and plug, do it all at once. Wear and tear on the wires and spark plugs can ruin even a brand-new coil. If the wire is internally brittle or behaves up when heated, resistance won't reveal it. A fuel delivery problem is probably not to blame for the lean or rich misfire, since 1% is excellent. The missing tip is something that would worry me. Hopefully, it just blew the exhaust and spared the engine from any harm. I'd swap out the coil pack and wires, or at least use a known good one, and start over. You should also double-check the coil's low-voltage wires and connector.

Since I did not replace the plugs, I am unsure about their condition. I seem to recall hearing that one of the plugs was missing its tip, but I can't place it. I agree that the lack of replacement for the spark plug leads could be the source of the problems. All of their cylinders have a resistance of 2.2 kohms. There was real-time information for "Richness correction" in my scantool (Autocom). Depending on the throttle position, the value ranged from about 0.7% to 1%. We will take compression measurements tomorrow. My understanding is that, with the exception of the plug missing its tip, none of the new parts are significantly different from the old ones.

When the spark plugs were removed, how did they appear? Were the spark plug wires replaced? You said you were going to check them. Is a scan tool an option for checking the fuel trims? Is it possible for you to verify that each cylinder's compression is equal? Did the symptoms improve or worsen after you changed any components?

Indeed, coil pack. For these engines, an NGK coil has taken its place, if that is relevant at all.

D4F features a coil pack that is always stocked.

Please verify that this is a coil pack and not a set of pencil coils. Since you've already replaced the pack, it's unlikely that it's a breakdown, but if you're still seeing misfires on 1 and 3, it could be an issue with the electrics that are powering the pack.

Hi there! At the moment, my 2013 Clio's D4F-722 engine is giving me trouble. Even after multiple investigations, the problem remains unresolved. Then, what exactly is wrong? Just as the engine is getting hot, misfiring will begin abruptly. Aside from the misfire event's recorded DTCs, the MIL begins flashing and the wrench and ESP symbols light up. If you rev the engine past 2500 rpm, it will run smoothly again and the MIL light will not flash. Be aware that the engine starts misfiring the second the revolutions per minute (rpm) drop below 2500 rpm, but gains power instantly at that point. How the car won't misfire "logically" is another strange thing. It might begin misfiring as soon as it warms up, or it could start 30 kilometres later. When the engine is misfiring, you can fix it for X amount of time by turning it off and then back on again. What other people have done or substituted: Array of coils End caps Measurement of crank position Resistance measurement of plug leads My accomplishments: Valve adjusting Gaskets that cover valves Gaskets used on intake manifolds As it begins to malfunction, there are a few DTCs that can be recorded: Misfire in Cyl 1 Problem with Cyl 3 Found a misfire while fuel levels are low Fumes from pollutants Occasionally, while driving normally, you might hear a "Pollutant misfire" or "Cyl 1 or 3 misfire" even though the MIL isn't flashing or the engine isn't running rough. It seems to reason that we should start searching for an electrical component since the RPMs have such a significant impact on the misfires. After the engine has cooled down tomorrow, I will check the valve clearances again. This is just a brainstorming session, so please accept my apologies in advance if the post is badly worded.

🙈🙈🙈

Is anyone here? In the event that I were to purchase a similar E250 radar sensor from a wreckers, it would be a win-win. Will I have to calibrate it first, or can I just plug it in?

By accident, I posted it in the engine section, but no one responded. So, I moved it to the right place, where I'm hoping someone will be able to help me find my problem.

Are you sure you didn't start a new thread on Saturday specifically for this?

Hey there, everyone. In the event that I turned on the vehicle at one point, this notice came up. The following has been verified by me. Bumper and all sensors were cleaned. Complete system wipe The battery is functioning properly. No additional issues or red flags Have taken the bumper off; the sensor is dry and undamaged. It is properly positioned. Corrosion is not visible at the coupling. The status of fuse #36 is good. I am seeing this warning. I am unable to clear it. Should I get a different sensor? Many thanks

It should be noted that the 8V-16V range represents the amp's supply range and not its ability to handle inputs at the speaker level. After the Bose amplifier, the input section is the most important part for tapping, but those specs are different. With a clipped or attenuated signal from the JBL's high-level inputs to the CX-90's output level, your DSP correction will begin with a compromised signal. It would be wise to check the input sensitivity before purchasing the load generator and speakers, as the additional power is primarily for headroom when operating at 85-90 dB.

Input is greatly appreciated. It states on JBL's website that the amp can operate from 8v to 16v.

Regarding your first question, intercepting after the Bose amp is theoretically possible because the JBL takes speaker-level input and can remove some factory EQ. However, a generic DSP correction won't completely remove Bose's channel-specific processing and time alignment. Yes, in order to prevent the Bose amplifier from faulting when the input is changed, a load generator or resistor network is typically required (refer to question two). In response to your third question, a simple speaker swap maintains the factory tuning while reducing the likelihood of mistakes. Please verify the input voltage range of the amplifier before making a final decision, considering your moderate listening levels.

Kicker 46KISLOAD4 Load Resistors K Series 4-channel smart radio interface — resistive loads to prevent radio shut-down at Crutchfield Canada

Infinity Reference 375TX- 3/4” Component Tweeter : Amazon.ca: Electronics

https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_108R307F/Infinity-Reference-REF307F.html?__cf_chl_tk=Sv.pOOl83OGvx2KxqPx.DA9d1tc0BI4PEu1jcunfRpY-1794303095-1.0.1.1-QCquNWLprfwpgL8SfuOEM0HV3UkHi2tqd_sp_12COus

https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_109DSP4086/JBL-DSP4086.html?__cf_chl_rt_tk=Yqj4tP5NO2ySxhBhCoV8qGR0eWttCYfVTvZnjx4MLCo-1794303083-1.0.1.1-3tBwiwA2K2Mr7XTMhmmJZnulYnqk5Y4RPASAJiHn1UM

After purchasing a 2026 CX-90 PHEV GT (Canada) in May, I've been thinking about upgrading the speakers to make the car sound better, but I need some forum advice to make sure I'm not crazy. I typically keep my music volume between 85 and 90 dB, so I don't require a lot of power. Car audio is something I haven't dabbled in since the mid-2000s, so I'm attempting to get back on track with the latest industry standards. Before, I've gutted cars to install car audio systems, but I don't intend to do that to this one. 1. Could I connect the following amplifier to the electrical system to bypass the OEM Bose amplifier? The JBL amp's digital signal processor would fix the factory Bose equaliser before sending the signal to the original speakers via the original wiring. 2. Since Bose amplifiers are known to be finicky about impedances, would the load generator be necessary to keep the Bose amp in good working order? 3. Is it feasible to simply swap the speakers in the Bose system to fix the system if this splice in amp plan is not possible? Because fixing the Bose DSP/EQ would not be possible, this may not be the best course of action. I would greatly appreciate it if someone could share a wiring diagram for the Bose CX-90 with me; I have been unable to find one anywhere. Also, I'll be sure to muffle my voice for the duration of this. I have already completed the rear sub and trunk floor, which has made a slight improvement in that area. The JBL DSP4086 is an 8-channel digital signal processing automobile amplifier available at Crutchfield Canada with 40 watts RMS x 8. 3.5" Speaker x 7: Infinity Reference REF307F Reference Series 3-1/2" 2-way automobile speakers from Crutchfield Canada Crutchfield Canada offers a pair of 4-inch Infinity Reference REF407F Reference Series 2-way car speakers. Infinity Reference 375TX- 3/4" Component Tweeter: Two-Tweeter: Electronics: Amazon.ca: Sub x 1: I'm considering ditching the OEM since I'm not usually one for deep bass. Resistive loads to avoid radio shutdown are available at Crutchfield Canada from the Kicker 46KISLOAD4 load generator, which is part of the K Series 4-channel smart radio interface.

It seems to have worked, so thank you to everyone who helped with the information. This morning, I am truly overjoyed. Its apparent simplicity astounds me. I thought it was a plug-and-play when I got the charger, but now there are so many apps—ugh.

The car and battery can be made to be inaccessible to each other using a simple CT Clamp or Henley block (though I'm pretty sure you were already aware of that 🙂). The catch is that you can force charge your storage battery cheaply as well if Octopus schedules an off-peak charge.

A Wallbox charger is what I use to charge my EV2 on Intelligent Octopus Go. Even though it can do it at any time, I set the car schedule for 2330-0530 so that it will first drain the domestic battery, since I haven't wired it properly. Octopus makes a plan, but it can't charge the car until 23:30, so it will change the plan as needed, keeping it limited to the car's schedule. Based on my observations, it seems to be working. It worked perfectly for my MG4, and the swap was easy.

I appreciate the guidance.