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I have not encountered anything similar to this issue in my 6,600 miles of driving. I would take it to the dealer to have it examined!

I have not encountered anything similar to this issue in my 6,600 miles of driving. I would take it to the dealer to have it examined!

Excuse me, but no. As near as I can tell, the front radar failed to pick up any objects. And it was a sunny day, too. As far as anyone can tell, it only occurred once. I am unsure as to whether your problem would trigger any codes or not. It might be a good thing to look into.

🤣🤣🤣

Is this problem unique to me? Wow, that's funny!

It's fucking killing me. This wasn't the case when I first got it, and I only started using it about three weeks ago. My 2025 cx70 has three thousand miles on it. Whenever I come up behind another car at a stop light, the front camera and continuous beeping start acting as if I'm extremely close to the car in front of me, but this crap happens whether I'm two feet or six feet away. I've attempted to alter the security parameters, but to no avail. Do I need to schedule an appointment and bring it in, or is there something I can do? I'm curious if anyone else has experienced this or if it's happening to anyone else.

I posted a video of Legitstreetcars; you should watch it. You can see the oil can that Alex uses.

This is where I purchased mine from the MB dealer. The name you should ask for is pentosin.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162766874158?epid=10041420407&itmmeta=01HXPKGQYEAZA0GA5XBFTPYZ0K&hash=item25e5a9662e:g:vtIAAOSwFo5lnmg~&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4JyzMcGz0mC8srrmQHZBhtgloo2WNacePHV2HFcJnHvOauz6v7LqYXu9UfBqKxVZlRaW1bd/tXpjJf0zHxRY10+0noC7S1d1UA9ZgeYUy+uyN/yfCQ7dIaaGo/eHK0l2wotAMjvbxMijwlwLIkQUAtpqE8+gaEjSR3HdblwauZx3/1vcfJmogRGfdLh7LPwKVHQer7GcCpPmJ9URFyjkm2Mho7/w+5GbxEq5K4En/SrnPMfdWpOUrG4mxl5EYjQVy5Md5Vy9wkWFskPGh8rYfXtELvj27EVpbQkUy+/XM/5e|tkp:BFBMrP_C0-1j&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X44f1adde54fadc3ac272c30af9910e4d&subId2=15

Would this be the one?

A fluid checker is available on the Opie Oils website. It's called CHF11s or something similar, and MB Parts will sell you a litre of it.

I noticed the body was sitting at its normal height the second I stepped outside today, so I went ahead and checked to see if it would bounce. It did not! I started the engine carefully and saw no warnings, so I went for a short run to make sure everything was OK. The car handled and drove perfectly without my touching the height/lower or sport settings; I figured it was best to just let it be. Upon returning home, I verified that the ABC fluid level was sufficient; nevertheless, it appeared somewhat low on the dipstick, not quite full but not quite empty either. Is it possible that this is the source of the problem? If so, which oil or fluid should I get to replenish it? I was searching online, but there seem to be a lot of options. Much obliged.

https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=legitstreetcars+ABC+mercedes+benz.&mid=3F41AF2B01B80C64074F3F41AF2B01B80C64074F&FORM=VIRE

An ex-MB technician named Alex from legitstreetcars.com is currently tackling a V12. You may find his work on the ABC system and how to remove and strip down an engine to replace a £1 'o' ring in his content. Although you can jump to the parts concerning ABC, it is worth watching all of his films that deal with the CLK. Not everyone is brave enough to deal with issues with earlier ABC systems. My wish is that you uncover the truth.

There were instances where valves had to be replaced due to struts being jammed when the ABC-system was implemented. Mercedes came up with the "Rodeo test" after giving it some thought. Using Xentry, we subject the system to stress by jolting the vehicle and listening to its vibrations. problem codes. By evaluating the ABC system's capabilities, any malfunctions are exposed. Additionally, the rodeo test "lubricates" the struts and valves and removes any dirt from the oil system. Changing the ABC oil (and filter) at normal intervals is crucial. There was absolutely no interval mentioned on the M/Y2000, at least! In its original state, hydraulic oil is odourless, translucent, and verdant. The time for changing has come if the oil is cloudy, smells bad, and has a greyish hue. The filler cap is where you can find the filter. Upon completion, it turns white (or a pale green). The pulsation damper is likely to be worn out after around 10,000 kilometres. Testing it is a breeze. Turn the engine over while it is at a complete stop in neutral gear. To replace the pulsation damper, listen for a rumbling sound that goes away when the engine speed reaches around 1800 RPM. Making sure the ABC system is in good working order is crucial. Metal fragments might enter the system if the pump were to break due to contaminated oil. Fixing it will cost a big penny. Before anything else, make sure the oil is clean on any CL (or prospective purchase). Parking a vehicle that gradually lowers itself is OK, but only up to a certain point. I raised my CL, placed a bundle of wood blocks behind the service pads, and then dropped it to store it for the winter. Therefore, there was no strain on the struts and the tires did not become flat.

Greetings everyone; As I rounded a bend on my way home this evening, the words "ABC Visit Workshop!" flashed on my dashboard. Now I'm a little confused. Worryingly, I felt the vehicle begin to bounce and feel extremely floaty the second I received the message. Fortunately, I was rather close to my house, so I sprang out of the running car as soon as I pulled onto the driveway and saw it sitting proudly on its highest suspension point. As soon as I applied pressure to the vehicle, its body effortlessly jumped up and down. I returned to the vehicle, shook off the shock, and then shut off the engine, waiting a minute or two before starting it again. The automobile rose up without a hitch when I clicked the raise button; but, when I got out, it was obvious that the suspension was still set to its highest setting, and the bounce was still present. There were no longer any cautions because the ABC message on the dashboard had vanished. The original warning had white text instead of red. If anyone has any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it because I had the rear shocks changed approximately four months ago. The vehicle's front and rear ends are still elevated. Much obliged.

I understand your point, but after working in a number of factories, I've noticed that most products, OEM or not, are made in the same factory, using the same machines, and sometimes even on the same day. I always make sure to get a parts warranty in case something goes wrong. I'm hoping this is the problem, but it's mostly just a test to see how stretched the chain is and how much work I'll have to do. If it's not, I'd rather spend £25 now than hundreds of pounds later to find out the problem is severe.

I wouldn't recommend installing a non-OE or OEM part from the internet because there's a chance that it comes with the wrong spring or other components. During the servicing, ensure that an FAI or BMW kit is used, which includes the vanos sprockets, guides, etc., as these are known to function well right away. There may be problems with the sprockets on other brands.

Yes, but only at around 3000 revs. When I used new oil, it settled, but it comes back when the oil is warm. I'm using the original stock tensioner and would like to upgrade. I have a service appointment in two weeks, so I will get the timing chain done then. I'm doing the tensioner to determine how stretched the chain is. I sought advice because it's hard to find a tensioner with attached dimensions. BMW wants more than £50 and needs to order one, while everyone else offers networking options for £20–£30 and next day.

The most recent FAI full TC kit is included with it. Is the tensioner the only part you need? You should be able to find one at the BMW dealership in your area. I don't see why it's only the tensioner. Can you hear the chain swishing?

Where can I find the tensioner that has been upgraded? I own an R57

Am I looking at the right battery? The local motor factor gave me a battery based on what their system indicated should be on there, which might sound foolish. It had trouble cranking when I returned it to Motor Factor, so they contacted the manufacturer, who informed them that my battery had a higher specification because it had all the possible extras. Nothing has gone wrong with the new battery; it appears identical to the old one, but it has a hundred more CCA. You risk damaging your alternator if you don't inform the ECU that you've installed a new battery.

Actually, you won't be able to verify anything with a multimeter continuity test unless you happen to have one on hand. The only thing you can do is check the voltage at the jumper connection; if it drops while cranking, the problem is further back. Poor connection between the main power wire and the jump point/starter cable has caused the jump point termination to shatter in the past.

Ensure a secure connection at the jump point.

Is there a way to test the cable to determine if it's bad? I noticed the bolted connection going through the battery well seemed dirty, but I cleaned it out. The cable on the engine bay side seems fine.