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Every time I go to a certain place, my high lights go out and blind everybody else on the road, even if there isn't a car just ahead of me. Having learned this, the next time I drive through that area, I will off the automatic high beam feature. In my opinion, the radar and/or camera are being obscured because the area is located near the valley floor, where it flattens out. Thus, it is undeniably imperfect. The majority of the time, nevertheless, it serves its intended purpose. Having the high lights turned on is unnecessary when you're in a densely populated region. You can't expect to outdrive low-beam headlights unless you're travelling at highway speeds.

Yes, if you're referring to exterior lights instead of inner ones. At specific speeds, you can activate either the high beam or low beam functions, or the adaptive headlights (ALH). They all range from 19 to 25 mph, with the exception of ALH's Highway mode, which operates at 65.2 mph or faster. Refer to the handbook for instructions.

I wouldn't consider this a "need" or even notice its absence as I've never had a car with this feature before. Having said that, I'm more interested in knowing whether other CX-30 owners have experienced intermittent issues with this function. On occasion, the auto-bright feature performs exactly as I would anticipate it to under ideal conditions; this occurs on the same route night after night, with the same street illumination and everything. On other occasions, the lights don't automatically switch on. One possible explanation is that the 25 mph speed limit in this gated community is not high enough to activate the technology. Like I said before, I'm used to manually switching between low and high beams when needed, so this isn't a huge concern for me. Nonetheless, I find it intriguing.

No saved codes; I just hooked up a plug-in scanner (Autolink Autel AL519) that my company uses for the vehicles. On the other hand, I did notice that the MAP sensor measurement never budged from its ideal 100.0 kPa. It was stable throughout the tests, unlike the others. After looking it up online, the MAF sensor read 7.87 g/s, which looks a bit high. Does anyone think they could comply if asked? In any case, I might end up switching them out. Disqualify them.

The only thing I've been doing is utilising a BT OBD2 scanner with an iPhone app. Wasn't looking to spend any more money, but I suppose the more costly ones read more control units. Since this whole ordeal started, the water temperature has been quite unpredictable, and I still don't know why; if anyone has any insight into this, I'd greatly appreciate it. Fortunately, it now appears to run better, and the engine temperature indicator is less erratic. the current state of the issue posting is simply limp. After 18 months, if you remedy this, I could even begin to enjoy her! 😄

Tell me which scanner you're using. It is possible that a code in another system is causing the problem; a comprehensive scan could reveal it. For instance, there was no problem with the engine, yet the automobile went limp. The exhaust flap problem code was actually located in a subsystem, not the engine. The engine turned off after I removed this code. The problem persisted despite the exhaust flap replacement, proving that a code recorded elsewhere had an effect on the engine management system.

After doing smoke tests and vacuum tests at various locations throughout the system this evening, I'm relieved to report that everything is in working order. Similarly, I'm relieved to report that no leaks were identified in the air intake system. Changing the boost pressure sensor is the next thing I'll attempt. Can somebody tell me if trying to smoke the exhaust system was worth it? I'm at a loss as to what to do when neither the engine light nor the fault code can provide any guidance.

Greetings to everyone here, My vehicle is a W176 2014 2.1 cdi. fixed a DPF fault and an exhaust pressure sensor fault since I purchased it; still working through a few other difficulties. I was a heavy-vehicle mechanic for a while, but I left that field years ago. Lately, I've been thinking that maybe a boost fault is to blame when the car goes into limp mode at higher speeds and boost levels, albeit it happens less frequently while idling. I have examined the vacuum lines and air intake lines for signs of wear, but they appear to be in good condition. Last night, I conducted a smoke test. I started by checking the vacuum line that goes to the brake cylinder on the bulkhead (I forget its name), and it came back clear. Then, I moved the air intake unit to the area after the air filter to see if there was a problem. To my surprise, I discovered an oil leak that I had never noticed before. It was discovered that the leak was caused by loose screws on the rocker cover. After I snugged them all, I did a smoke test once more, and the leakage stopped. My question now is whether smoke should have been present there initially. I can't recall why smoke from the air intake pipe would wind up in the rocker cover; it's been so long since I played the game. After tightening the screws, I put the car through its paces on the road, but it still goes into limp mode when I apply too much boost pressure or rev too quickly. Has anyone ever smoke-tested anything before, so I'm not sure if there are certain points to test or if I should use a variety of pipes. Would be eternally grateful for any assistance.

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My goodness, I get it now. Thank you for clarifying and explaining it; I had trouble understanding that at first. Please accept my apologies if I led you astray

Unexpectedly, the CX-90 lacks TPMS in certain regions such as the Philippines and Latin America. For whatever reason, Sancocho2001's account used to have the Dominican flag next to it when he created this discussion. His CX-90 might not have TPMS if that's his location.

None of the lights were visible to me. I appreciate your help.

Was there a flashing or steady light from the TPMS? It might be a sign of a problem if it happened. Remember that there are some scenarios in which the TPMS system might miss the signs of low tyre pressure.

I don't require them, so you can have them.

In my opinion, the simplest option would be to install an aftermarket TPMS system. It definitely wouldn't be that easy to equip a Latin American CX-90 with TPMS sensors in the tires. The capability would also typically have to be enabled on the car, possibly using Mazda Diagnostic and Repair Software (MDARS) or a comparable program. That will only function if the device is not locked to a specific region and if it is compatible with the software and hardware of the car. Adding or replacing parts generally won't help if the vehicle's software or hardware doesn't support TPMS. If my memory serves me well, the TPMS and keyless entry wireless receivers are housed in the same module. Whether or not your keys function, among other things, may depend on whether or not the Latin American module supports TPMS. If it doesn't, then you may need to replace it with one that does. While researching this topic, I came across some online discussions pertaining to the Philippine market, where Mazda also chose not to include TPMS. No one in those discussions managed to activate TPMS on their Mazda. You might have to locate a helpful Mazda technician who is willing to fiddle with the MDARS settings if you want an authoritative response, though. Unlike the Volkswagens sold in the US, which used indirect TPMS, I don't think this is very likely. These could be configured to use TPMS sensors through ODIS, which is VW's version of MDARS.

Complete aftermarket TPM systems are something to consider, along with the possibility of obtaining OEM sensors and adapting them to fit your car.

Greetings everyone: I was hoping someone could tell me how to install or activate the TPMS sensor in my 2026 Mazda Cx-90. I had a flat tyre this morning and the system didn't give me any warning because the TPMS sensor isn't mounted on the tires in this version. The TPMS system is crucial, and I would like to have it installed. Warm regards

Since I have just utilised Castrol Edge, there is no necessity to add it subsequently.Thank you.

I am pleased to incorporate petrol additives every few months, but I have never been inclined to use oil additives. I prefer to buy a quality oil, specifically Castrol Edge, and replace it every six months rather than invest in that additive. However, if you have already filled to the maximum oil capacity, you will exceed the limit by 0.3 litres.

Not necessary with contemporary oils, albeit that is merely my perspective.

Hello, I recently serviced my 2012 320d F30 and I am enquiring whether it is permissible to add 300ml of Liqui Moly Ceratec, despite having already added 5.2 litres of oil. Thank you.

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While there are no known problems with this model, the vehicle as a whole may have the typical generic Mercedes-Benz problems: Back subframe with corrosion Seat belt buckle, clock spring, and SRS problems ESL failure (as mentioned earlier) Rear wheel speed sensors that have failed Problems with Start/Stop due to a weak battery (Some may chime in with questions rooted in their personal experiences.)

Could you see how some specifics could be useful? Thought for the day!

Problems with the ESL and corroded brake pipes