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Prior to the engine failure, how much was the car's value?

"A brand-new unit was priced at £43,700.95, but warranty provider Warranty Solutions Group (WSG) managed to source a used replacement from Germany for £30,913.30." Maybe this makes sense from the insurance company's point of view, but if I were the one footing the bill, I'd think MB's quote was a steal, or the used engine was horribly overprotective.

I doubt MB would sell you an engine on PCP, and the price is scary compared to what most people (including myself) would ever pay for a whole car. Losing the warranty would have meant the end of the car's life. Is MB's goodwill absent?

https://cardealermagazine.co.uk/mercedes-owner-hit-with-43700-engine-replacement-quote-after-catastrophic-failure-at-48000-miles/327674

t was somewhat of a result, I would say!

It should be possible to come to a complete stop from a speed of 35 km/h in 9 meters with a good set of brake pads, such as the "yellow stuff" pads. Just wanted to check if anyone knows if the Defender rotors and callipers will work with the RRC diff? I have the modified brake pipe.

People may be using inexpensive pads.

You can't say for sure unless you give it a go, I suppose. But in Australia, if the registration has been modified or is more than 12 months old, a braking test is usually required to re-register the vehicle. Half of the RRCs he has seen failed the braking test with the factory brakes, according to the assessment guy I spoke with. As a result, they had to get upgraded brakes in order to get the MOT, or whatever you call it.

As someone who has owned four RRCs and found the brakes to be more than adequate when driven within its specifications, the claim that they are 'terrible' brakes surprises me.

Many people have complained about the RRC brakes, and I've read that many people are restoring an 88 RRC. A video of a Defender to Disko 1 front brake calliper swap just surfaced online. The sole noticeable distinction was the transition from a solid brake line to flexible lines, which could be accomplished by replacing the old line or bending it to fit.Because of this, the ventilated discs could be utilised. If my understanding is correct, the Disko 1 and RRC share the same differential housing. So, shouldn't it be possible to use the Defender callipers and rotors on the RRC? Instead of shelling out $2200 for an aftermarket kit that serves the same purpose. Also, which pads would be ideal to use if this were feasible? The "Green stuff" pads were suggested by most RRC owners, so I used them on the back. Many thanks to everyone

I appreciate it. 😇

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Ohme+epod+EV+charger&tag=vs-pl-kiaownersclub-co.uk-20&ascsubtag=v1-7e312b-89738-282278235d-k&rel=nofollow&linkCode=gg3&creatorsDisableRedirect=true&ar_su=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%3Fascsubtag%3Dv1-7e312b-89738-282278235d-k%26rel%3Dnofollow%26k%3DOhme%2Bepod%2BEV%2Bcharger%26tag%3Dvs-

For over 18 months, I have owned the EV3. Charge with an Intelligent Octopus The Ohme Epod was never a problem to control. We also have an EV2, which functions with the same level of reliability.

I appreciate it.

I successfully charged my EV3 utilising the Ohme application and charger without encountering any problems.

The residence indeed possesses a three-phase supply; however, a limitation in the cable pathway to the charger permitted only the installation of a smaller cable for 7.2Kw, unfortunately. I am accustomed to the absence of a link between the vehicle application and the charging application, so it is not a significant issue.

This will not pose an issue. Virtually all residences in the UK utilise single-phase electricity, as three-phase systems are prohibitively costly for domestic use. Thus far, our three electric vehicles have been charging seamlessly on the OHME Home Pro for three years. The primary source of issues with the OHME charger is the connection between the vehicle and the charger through the car application, resulting in a lack of communication between the two. The most prudent recommendation is to refrain from connecting the vehicle application to the charger.

Thank you, that is a comfort, superior to the evasive responses I was receiving from Kia.

I affirm. I have encountered no issues. The EV3 is absent from the roster of officially endorsed models by Ohme. To utilise the economical overnight rate, I configured the Ohme app to increase the charge by 40%. I can augment that to incorporate additional charge, but it will require more time and incur a slightly higher expense. You may also establish a maximum charge limit on the vehicle or via the KIA application.

I am in pursuit of insights from EV3 proprietors. I encountered a discussion in another forum regarding a woman whose new EV3 failed to charge with her single-phase 7.2 kW home charger. I anticipate acquiring a new EV3 next month and am currently experiencing some anxiety. I possess an Ohme ePod charger that delivers 7.2/7.4Kw from a single-phase electrical supply. Are there additional individuals utilising the same configuration to effectively charge an EV3?

Apologies, I have just observed the deadline!

Inspect exposed wiring for any signs of damage and potential rodent intrusion.

The mileage stands at 109,000.

I appreciate any assistance you can provide in advance. I was travelling at approximately 60mph when the engine ceased functioning, without any commotion, sound, vibration, or odours. No excessive heat generation. Oil and water levels and status are standard. The battery was functioning properly ten minutes prior to the start. Attempting to restart it produced a sound reminiscent of a depleted battery. The AA arrived and, upon attempting to start the machine, it operated sluggishly and was consuming a substantial amount of current.The vehicle was operating smoothly without any problems previously. There is an absence of cam chain noise during cold starts and at all other times. It was proposed, and I intend to remove the serpentine belt to prevent the seizing of the alternator, AC compressor, steering pump, pulleys, and so forth. I would have anticipated some screeching or burning odours from the belt if that were true, but I am not a Mercedes expert, despite being a reasonably skilled mechanic. I would surmise the starter as the culprit; however, I find it difficult to comprehend how a malfunctioning starter could initially halt the engine, particularly since I am not well-versed in the stop-start mechanism. The stop-start feature has consistently malfunctioned in the vehicle, yet this has not troubled me. There was no power failure; I had accelerated quite vigorously, eased off to coast for a moment, and only realised the engine had ceased when I pressed the accelerator and observed no increase in RPMs. I have encountered catastrophic engine failures throughout the years, and there were no indications whatsoever of any issues. It simply ceased. I utilised my Mercedes-specific diagnostic tool, but no pertinent codes were detected. A few points concerning interaction with the instrument cluster, yet I fail to perceive the connection. No aspects pertaining to cam timing or any engine-related matters. Should anyone possessing greater firsthand experience with this have any insights or troubleshooting recommendations, I would be exceedingly appreciative.I possess general knowledge, yet lack specific information regarding this vehicle; I will detach the belt, although it appears somewhat cumbersome, so conducting other inspections may be advisable beforehand. My greatest apprehension is that the engine has become inoperative. I appreciate it.

I encountered the identical issue, so ultimately I returned to the website and purchased the USB directly from KIA, which functioned flawlessly. Continuing to encounter difficulties in locating an appropriate cable for ANDROID AUTO... however, that is...