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These tasks are best left to a garage that has the expertise and specialised equipment to do them efficiently. I would also consult a BMW dealer for an estimate. You should probably replace the driveshaft seals as well if you decide to change the diff, because it's a big job that requires a fair amount of disassembly and the suspension needs to come apart on one side.

https://www.amazon.ca/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Loctite

I also had a ballache removing the "NUT" from my car in order to replace the diff pinion seal; it is a special tool that comes on with loctite from the factory

The big multi-point nut and the way the prop connects make them a real pain to do on later models. The process is more involved than just taking the prop off, undoing a nut, and pulling the flange. I think four hours is about right because you also have to drop the exhaust and heat shields.

https://www.amazon.com/s?ascsubtag=v1-a484af-606535-3af7e26430-k&k=BMW+335d

Good day. There is an oil leak at the rear differential where the drive shaft enters my 2019 335D X Drive Shadow Edition Touring. It appears like a lot, but two different garages have quoted me four hours of labour, and they both say it's the oil seal. So many videos on YouTube say it takes about an hour and a half, and I'm worried that either the garages are trying to scam me or that the videos are showing the wrong differentials being serviced. Either way, I need to figure out how long it really takes to fix my car. Someone advised me to purchase a used differential and have it installed instead, saying that it is easier and faster because the differential has a spring-loaded seal or something. Could someone please clarify this for me? I am grateful.

I had the same issue with my 211 E500.

His words.

They wobble as they wear out; they are rubberised and commonly referred to as torsional vibration dampers.

The two parts aren't the only ones. There are a couple more items, but the list is shorter. Idler pulley, tensioner, bolts, etc. The dealer is obligated to adhere to Mercedes regulations. This comes with no spare parts. Plus, labour is expensive. The Belgians. thrice as much as a standalone garage. That area is called Wallon. Every single garage in the area has completely lost my trust. Due to mental exhaustion, the only decent one closed. However, compared to high-quality aftermarket components, the pulley is actually more affordable. They stand firm on the two-year warranty, which is the only perk in my book. Including the subframe, they have dutifully honoured everything. It isn't accurate to say that the pulley is loose. Here we have a pulley/harmonic damper. The structure is disintegrating. It's not easy. In French, I understand everything. Aircraft jargon is my speciality, but automotive lingo is completely foreign to me.

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=crankshaft+pulley&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181132&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X061ef7b6dd753f64f6d80663116d9dbc&subId2=15

What gives the crankshaft pulley its slack? How loose is it? Surely there must be some oil seeping out?

Is the belt and crank pulley the only components costing €1,150? around £962 in today's money). Too much for what appears to be a straightforward task. Perhaps they included that quotation to make the larger one seem more credible. The whole thing takes around 90 minutes and costs £200.

Now we have the quotes. The essentials will set you back 1,150 euros, while the complete accessory drive, water pump, and labour will set you back 1930 euros. A lot lower than what I had anticipated from my study. I intend to take the full course. If I had to wager, I'd say my vehicle has the best maintenance records for its year, model, and mileage in the nation. Love comes at a price. Occasionally, OEM parts are the superior option, even though I could find them elsewhere for half the price. Also, make sure to check out the hostess! Heaven on earth!

Possibly the alternator clutch pulley

The decision has been made. The location was correct, but the pulley was incorrect. That one is pricey. There is a little play in the crankshaft pulley. Two quotations will be written by them. Typically, the optimal option is to use one for the water pump and complete set of pulleys and one for the crankshaft pulley and belt. The choice will be made based on price and the timing of Christmas. To be honest, the kids have been misbehaving the whole year. 😆

I have ramped up the maintenance plan. Each 6,000 kilometres, I change the oil and filter. Every time it's necessary, I change the air filter, cabin filter, and diesel filter by myself. Replaced filters are not my speciality. At this very moment, I am waiting for the garage to finish their diagnostic. I just swapped out the valve cover. Even without the code, I can tell that injector 4 isn't ideal. It seems to me that the intake system might have a tiny leak as well. I am unable to isolate the hiss. Instead of using hydrogen, I'd prefer a thorough disassembly and manual cleaning for my intake. Two of my friends have rave reviews in that area. Regardless, I'm at ease in the waiting room, where there are an unusually large number of attractive women. I will fix the steering rack after I fix all the motor issues. No amount of adjusting has ever corrected the tiny pull to the right. Finally, the rack could be an option. I'm going to start with a fluid change.

In most cases, the water pump will be dangerously hot to the touch; after all, the shaft you touched was carrying water that was almost boiling. Any diagnosis I make will be based on speculation unless I see it. I hope it works out.

Some problems that can arise in OM651s after 100,000 miles or more include: gasket leaks or warped rocker covers; oil cooler leaks caused by failed seals; diesel filter housing leaks caused by brittle plastic pipes; inlet manifolds that start giving trouble; and last but not least, engine timing chain stretch, which is indicated by chain rattle-on-cold-start. Also, EGR coolers can become clogged. You could choose to get everything done at once so it's perfect, or you could fix or replace things as they break. For example, when my inlet manifold leaked oil, I had to remove the diesel filter housing and replace it at the same time. In my opinion, the two most important things are to change the oil at the intervals specified by MB (I change mine every 6,000 miles) and to inspect everything on a regular basis. The reasoning behind this recommendation differs from MB's 40K mile recommendation; according to another piece of advice I read recently, diesel filters should be changed every 20,000 miles to avoid injector problems in engines with higher mileage.

Hi there, Driven by an AMG-pack 2012 E250 CDI S212 waggon. An odour of burning rubber has been detected both indoors and outdoors as of late. So that I can see the strut towers free of rubber dust, I make sure my engine compartment is always clean. The 'touch the pulleys' test popped into my head after perusing all the clues provided by META AI (which is pretty good). My finger burnt on the water pump pulley, but the others were all nice and toasty. This is what I'm calling an intermittent problem that will eventually become a full-blown breakdown. This is the vacuum-activated pump. Even though the temperature gauge occasionally climbed one tick higher than usual, there was no overheating. Is my diagnosis correct? When you lose your belt, you might reach out and grab anything you can get your hands on as it winds up. Trust me, I know the feeling. I would prefer that not to occur. For the next 270,000 kilometres, apart from the pump and belt, what other parts should I replace to make sure it runs smoothly? We gladly accept the opinions of those with more experience. It is appreciated.

🙃🙃🙃

Do regular code readers show that the HVC heater has failed, even though it should show up on the LR Pathfinder?

Just had to get a new aux battery, relay module, and battery contactor module from LR; I'm still shelling out close to $4,000. It seems that LR doesn't check these things during service or major EV side repairs. I spoke with the wife, and she was unaware that the car's heating worked even when the engine wasn't running. She also mentioned that the heater wasn't always turned on, but left off when the engine started, which she didn't realise was a problem. I lost track of how many times they misdiagnosed or underdiagnosed the car while it was in their workshop for a couple of weeks. They kept plugging it into the LR pathfinder. It was still unusual for me because the cabin heater is off and the engine doesn't start normally.

You can find many explanations online if you look hard enough. It seems that the HVC heater is no longer in use. Considering the vehicle's age, it might also be the Auxiliary battery.

I have just gone for a spin in supposedly fully charged EV mode, with the throttle set to a light setting, in slightly damp but not rainy or cold weather. As far as I'm aware, turning on the fan only heats the seats; otherwise, it starts the engine to warm the cabin. Driving more slowly enabled it to coast as the EV mode changed to "Grey" and the engine started. I put the engine in park after three miles and head to the repair shop. After I turn off the engine and return to EV drive, the engine starts again. I take a short detour, stop for a few minutes, and the engine keeps running. As I near home, the engine switches to EV "Blue" and stops. Seriously, I can handle this shit; once it's in EV, it should stay there. So, what gives?