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I understand your point, but after working in a number of factories, I've noticed that most products, OEM or not, are made in the same factory, using the same machines, and sometimes even on the same day. I always make sure to get a parts warranty in case something goes wrong. I'm hoping this is the problem, but it's mostly just a test to see how stretched the chain is and how much work I'll have to do. If it's not, I'd rather spend £25 now than hundreds of pounds later to find out the problem is severe.

I wouldn't recommend installing a non-OE or OEM part from the internet because there's a chance that it comes with the wrong spring or other components. During the servicing, ensure that an FAI or BMW kit is used, which includes the vanos sprockets, guides, etc., as these are known to function well right away. There may be problems with the sprockets on other brands.

Yes, but only at around 3000 revs. When I used new oil, it settled, but it comes back when the oil is warm. I'm using the original stock tensioner and would like to upgrade. I have a service appointment in two weeks, so I will get the timing chain done then. I'm doing the tensioner to determine how stretched the chain is. I sought advice because it's hard to find a tensioner with attached dimensions. BMW wants more than £50 and needs to order one, while everyone else offers networking options for £20–£30 and next day.

The most recent FAI full TC kit is included with it. Is the tensioner the only part you need? You should be able to find one at the BMW dealership in your area. I don't see why it's only the tensioner. Can you hear the chain swishing?

Where can I find the tensioner that has been upgraded? I own an R57

Am I looking at the right battery? The local motor factor gave me a battery based on what their system indicated should be on there, which might sound foolish. It had trouble cranking when I returned it to Motor Factor, so they contacted the manufacturer, who informed them that my battery had a higher specification because it had all the possible extras. Nothing has gone wrong with the new battery; it appears identical to the old one, but it has a hundred more CCA. You risk damaging your alternator if you don't inform the ECU that you've installed a new battery.

Actually, you won't be able to verify anything with a multimeter continuity test unless you happen to have one on hand. The only thing you can do is check the voltage at the jumper connection; if it drops while cranking, the problem is further back. Poor connection between the main power wire and the jump point/starter cable has caused the jump point termination to shatter in the past.

Ensure a secure connection at the jump point.

Is there a way to test the cable to determine if it's bad? I noticed the bolted connection going through the battery well seemed dirty, but I cleaned it out. The cable on the engine bay side seems fine.

Since it drops to practically nothing while cranking under heavy load, there must be an issue with the main positive somewhere. Verify the location of the jumper wire where it ascends from the brake servo. Take off the scuttle trim piece. Was the area in the boot where the positive cable from the battery joins to the one that travels to the front of the car examined? It's possible that it's corroded.

Taking into account the positive leap and the left-hand engine bay earth point It's getting dark and chilly, so I only checked the engine to chassis ground strap, but I also fear a poor connection between the rear battery and the engine bay. I also checked bad earths.

There is either an issue with the earth or the positive connection between the battery and the jump point connector. Where did you ground the multimeter lead when measuring at the jump point?

I should probably include the codes detected on the car as well. It seems like none of these are really important and are likely caused by the electricity not being distributed correctly to the car: The following information is displayed: ID, Status, and Description: | | 1A2002 | Intermittent| The electric fan may activate for a variety of reasons, including a short circuit to ground, an open circuit, a communication fault, an intermittent LIN message indicating that the alternator is missing, and an intermittent error code of 0DA451. We did not receive a communication regarding the real steering torque driver actuator 10.0.0. When it came to the electric fan, I made sure it was spinning smoothly under load by turning on the air conditioner to full speed and other conditions. I also watched the fan activation percentage on the reader, and it moved up and down in sync with the reading.

Greetings everyone, Just had trouble starting the car; I noticed it a few weeks ago, but being the slothful person that I am, I replaced the battery in the hopes it wasn't holding charge—a 200 pound error. I believe I've isolated the problem to a power delivery issue after dragging myself out of bed one evening to conduct some diagnostics. This is a list of all the symptoms I'm experiencing. The other day, I left my car running overnight, and it started up again when I got in the morning. I took it for a short trip, and then, just five minutes after turning it off, it still wouldn't start. The voltage on the battery was 12.45 volts. A second battery can be used to jumpstart the vehicle using the front jump ports. Analysed voltage: 14.5 volts Assuming the vehicle is not in sleep mode, the current draw is 70 milliamperes. After removing the IBS sensor, the push-to-start function still does not work; the relay clicks audibly. The following readings were recorded when the voltage under load and crank was measured directly from the battery in the boot: turned off at 12.6 volts 1.25 volts for ignition and 12.2 volts for cranking for measurements taken at the front jump ports starting at 11.6 volts with a 0.4 volt cranking electrical system When I tried to start it with jump leads after transferring the battery from the back boot to the engine block, I heard a clicking sound reminiscent of a machine gun. I've heard that the positive cable that runs from the battery to the engine compartment is faulty. Conversely, I believe the automobile should have started because the battery was connected to the battery jump starters. I'd be very grateful for any recommendations or suggestions for items to try. Even though I enjoy a good puzzle, I am completely overwhelmed by this one. Though

Naturally, both the Mercedes-Me account and the mobile app are free; you are under no obligation to pay for the supplementary subscription services. 'Free' implies that you'll have to part with some personal information to use it, but that's also the case with Facebook, X, LinkedIn, and so on.

It is really appreciated. While I can understand how some people could profit from Mercedes-me's services, I just don't see myself using them, even if I have an account with them. But I was wondering how Mercedes' data prices stack up against the industry standard. The available WiFi functionality seems to have been patched together by Hermes (unless you opt to purchase data from Mercedes). Maybe I'm being a bit cynical, but I wonder if the lack of WiFi on the go is because people could use alternatives like Google Maps or Waze instead of the navigation program or Apple Play?

MB may or may not be on the Vidafone network in the UK depending on the current situation. Technically speaking, GSM devices can function even without a SIM card; in fact, you can use a SIM-free phone (but only to dial emergency services) and still make GSM voice calls. Mobile phone companies won't let your device use their network to make calls unless they have the correct billing information, which is stored in the SIM card. So, the subscriber data is hardcoded into the communications module and identifiable by the vehicle's VIN; a SIM card is thus unnecessary for the vehicle. In the same vein, the idea of contemporary "eSims" is to store subscriber data on the phone rather than the SIM card. Before you can pay for services, you'll need to register your vehicle's VIN and create an account with Mervedes me online. At that point, you'll be able to view all of the car-related services that are for sale. Subscriptions will be required for all of these.

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The Hermes module fascinates me; I take it it powers the Mobilo and SOS services. From what I can see, the Hermes module needs to link up with a cellular service provider because it has an integrated SIM. Who knows which one it is? Also, how much is the charge per gigabyte (GB) considering that the Hermes module seems to be the new foundation for Internet radio and wifi, and that users will presumably need to buy data from Mercedes (like all pay-as-you-go providers)? Not getting the benefits of the mobilo service and the 'corrosion' guarantee from not having Mercedes maintain the car makes it seem like it isn't worth it. In my opinion, the most majority of Mercedes Me services aren't worth your time. Your feedback is valued.

It seems like a good time to get in touch with the service department and request an examination for the used car. It would have been ideal to purchase it before the sale, but there was a wait, as you mentioned. Additionally, they can look up the vehicle identification number and inform you of any other issues that may require attention. Other TSBs may also be applicable, in addition to recalls. Do it now before the warranty expires for the best possible outcome.

There are no outstanding recalls on this vehicle, according to my pre-purchase check of the vehicle identification number on Mazda's website. Carfax also shows that routine maintenance was done. I took a chance and had it done after purchase, while the vehicle was still under warranty, because a licensed Mazda dealer was booked for two weeks before I ever made the purchase.

Prior to purchasing the vehicle would have been the ideal time to accomplish this. Expensive European vehicles often undergo what is known as a Pre-Purchase Inspection. Having the software updated, recalls and service bulletins executed, oil changed, etc., might be arranged at this stage by contacting a Mazda dealer. They should be able to tell you whether the vehicle has been recalled or serviced in accordance with service bulletins, though I'm not sure if they can provide you with any history on the vehicle.

purchased a pre-owned 2025 CX-90 MHEV (not certified pre-owned) from a dealership that is not affiliated with Mazda. When I bought the automobile, it had approximately 27,000 miles on the odometer and was built in July 2024. I'd like to bring it in for an examination at an authorised Mazda dealer, even though I've put an extra 1,000 miles on it since purchasing it and haven't seen any problems yet (apart from the brakes screeching every so often). I am crossing my fingers that Mazda will pay to fix it as it is still under the bumper-to-bumper warranty and any problems that haven't shown up yet can be discovered with a comprehensive inspection. Since I haven't detected any problems (apart from the brake squeal), I'm wondering what the best course of action is. In order to have it towed to the dealership for a comprehensive inspection, do I need to "make up an issue"? Or should I simply bring it in and explain that I didn't buy it from a Mazda dealer and that it needs a thorough check (basically the same kind of inspection a CPO gets)? Additionally, is there anything unique about my year, manufacture, and construction date that the dealer should be aware of? I am grateful.

Much obliged for the lengthy reply. The activation of additional modules and equipment makes this sound like Porsche. To activate or link specific items to a car, even with used hardware and all the proper supporting parts fitted, you still need a dealer PIWIS that speaks back to Germany. The option exists, at least, if one can locate a Mazda dealer willing to negotiate.

After 6 years, no other diagnostic system has been able to crack full access because MMC JAPAN owns all the files in their servers and only they have access to the calibration files and physical control modules in the car. MDARS is Bosch's live portal, and it can be used on Windows laptops with VCI or VCM II. With this access, users can alter or update the preset features. Even Mazda Dealers are unable to save or modify any offline Cal codes; all access is live. Yes, you can use alternative scanners and diagnostics like Forscan, but it only offers you the option to read DTCs and does not allow you to change or renew anything; the Old IDS "As Built Data" system is retired for all Gen 7 models starting in 2019. MDARS is the only option. This month, all new KM CX-5 vehicles were equipped with the new MDARS II (high speed), which is much more difficult to use.