TechnoTrailblazer

The plastic tube functions as a damper, so facilitating a gradual opening process. It is essential that the attachment be affixed. Reattaching these gloveboxes might be a challenging task. I have completed several tasks. Would it be possible for you to record a video clip pertaining to the matter at hand?

My Protege 1.6L from 2001 experienced a similar issue. The car's engine has been acting up, particularly in heavy traffic, with poor performance and sudden shutoffs when completely warmed up. The check engine light finally turned on, so I took it to Autozone to get the codes. The codes were P1141 for the back O2 sensor and P0300 for cylinder misfires that seemed to happen at random. After reading this topic, I removed the mass air flow sensor and cleaned it with non-chlorinated brake cleaner as described above. I then cleaned the throttle body with its designated cleaner. The IAT sensor's tiny "bulb" was, in fact, quite grimy. The check engine light turned off tonight, and the vehicle did feel better, but I won't know for sure that the issue has been solved until I've driven the car for a few weeks, since it only occurs seldom. If I don't provide an update here during the next two months, you may assume that a thorough cleaning of the MAF/IAT resolved the issue.

This is quite disappointing. Automakers that enter the EV market later cannot afford to make any mistakes. If low-quality goods are released, the whole electric vehicle industry will look bad. Customers will spread negative word-of-mouth about EVs in general, saying things like "I paid a lot of money for a horrible experience." In my humble view.

I agree with you 😉

Don't fret, my friend. Your intentions are good; I realize that.

Not so clear; in my 15 years of driving Mercs, I've never seen or heard of an om602. Those in the know, well, they know. 😆

Well 14 plate on 2.2 diesle most problems fixed petrol all OK just not quite as quick.

I don't understand why trade standards didn't investigate why Mazda developed an engine with a potentially catastrophic flaw if the timing chain doesn't lengthen before the warranty expires. In other words, a malfunctioning engine.

This is the one I used.... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06ZYXB168/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 There are a plethora of comparable ones accessible.

Similar problems to yours existed with my Mazda, including a rising oil level and sporadic EM lights with a fault code indicating a clogged dpf. Once a month, I drove the vehicle on a vigorous drive, maintaining the revs over 2k in third or fourth for more than 30 minutes after purchasing a code reader and deleting the codes. Problem was never repeated. It's important to note that no matter how you drive, your engine won't do a regen until the fault code is cleared.

When playing music via Bluetooth, the artist/song will not be displayed. Only if your stereo has an iPhone connection and your iPhone is connected into it. Regarding the bass, you must adjust the bass parameters, and trust me, it does sound bassy 😉 Fuel tank: 55 litres; the warning light typically illuminates with 50 kilometres remaining. However, this is what the computer says. I was never able to add more than 43 litres. Thus, when the light comes on, you could drive an additional 120-130 miles.

I saw the Gen 4 yesterday and am close to buying. The automobile is fantastic for the driver but not for passengers. Nice exterior. The main console's limited buttons make Gen 1 seem lacking. The interior seems sparse since they are all oriented to the in-car screen. This weekend, I'm considering Metallic Blue. Only trade in Gen 1 due to deteriorating paint. Hopefully Mazda 3 new models fix this. Otherwise, a nice vehicle.