nicebubby8

Greetings to everybody. I am curious if anybody has any guidance or recommendations. I just acquired a new C-Class vehicle, constructed in August and bought in September. Unfortunately, I have encountered an issue with the rain sensor, as it has become detached from the windscreen. I brought it in for a warranty repair, expecting a simple resolution. However, the Service Manager is refusing to service it under warranty due to the installation of a dashcam, with its cable discreetly concealed inside the internal windscreen cover. According to him, the proximity of the wire to the sensor suggests that it may have been detached. I have clarified that, firstly, the defect preexisted the installation of the dashcam, and secondly, even if it did not, the dashcam wiring is not in close proximity to the sensor itself and so should not have been capable of dislodging a securely attached rain sensor. It seems that they are attempting to evade responsibility for covering the costs of these repairs. Compounding the issue, he contacted me again today to inform me that the damage cannot be fixed and that the whole windscreen must be replaced at a cost of £600. Previously, he had me an estimate of £300 to have it re-bonded. I attempted to lodge a complaint with MB UK, but my concerns were dismissed without proper consideration. They just said that the service manager claimed the dash cam was responsible and that I had removed the cover, despite the fact that none of these assertions are true. Do you have any suggestions on my next course of action? Should I continue with MB International? Is it possible to get the item fixed at a different location without voiding the warranty or PCP agreement? I am quite angry with them since they do not trust me and are just attempting to avoid assisting me. Any insights or opinions would be much appreciated.

I'm astonished that the warranty for used items really provided coverage for it. Shocks are often categorised as goods that undergo wear and tear, and are not typically covered.

There is a little amount of movement in that panel on my vehicle as well. The presence of foam between the blue clips and the body is the reason. Your movement is little more pronounced than normal. As others have said, attempt to use inward force to move them. However, this would also need the bolts to be tightened in a parallel manner to accommodate the newly created gap.

Have you seen the debut of Toyota's latest iteration of the Grand Highlander?

Good evening everyone, Seeking guidance I own a Mercedes C350 with a 62 plate. Recently, I had an oil leak and had it examined by a local mechanic. Initially, the mechanic identified the issue as a rear main oil seal problem. However, it turned out that the actual cause of the leak was the oil cooler. Both the rear main oil seal and the oil cooler were replaced. After a delay of over 6 weeks, I finally received my vehicle back last evening. Unfortunately, I am now facing a new problem where the car is unable to exceed 3,000 revol I would certainly appreciate any assistance. After doing a brief web search, it seems that the issue may be related to the vehicle being in limp mode. One suggestion I saw is to turn off the ignition and then restart the vehicle. The situation remains same. There are no fault codes shown on the dashboard, and no further issues have been identified. Thank you in advance

The carbon brakes on the V10 Plus are exceptional. If the vehicle is equipped with magnetic ride, you have the choice to either choose the Audi Sport suspension or one of the high-quality aftermarket alternatives at a later time. The vehicle I test drove from the dealer was a non Plus variant. In my opinion, the performance of the car was disappointing, but the newest versions have a somewhat better acceleration. However, the focus of the car's tuning is on reducing emissions and it lacks a rear wing. The disparity in weight between the standard model and the Plus variant is minimal, particularly when equipped with an aftermarket exhaust system on the Plus.

I equipped my Audi A8 4.2 V8 with paddle shifters. I experimented with using them on my drive home after acquiring the car, mostly out of curiosity. However, I subsequently refrained from using them again. With less power, they may have a little higher level of utility....however, I have reservations about this!

The process of agreeing and acquiring the automobile lasted around one week. It was evident that individuals were more receptive to engaging in a transaction when they believed it was either HP or PCP. I was able to get the two-year warranty and the BMW deposit payment via this process. In addition, I saw that the price of BMW products was quite competitive when compared to non-franchised dealers.

I just purchased a certified pre-owned 1 series vehicle and successfully negotiated a two-year warranty. I used the lowest HP rating to get an extra £700 from BMW. Subsequently, I settled the remaining balance after the first payment. If you believe that you would use their financial resources, you are more likely to get a little higher amount. Legally, you are only required to make a single payment, and there are no consequences for paying it off ahead of schedule. Applause.

The older evoques were essentially Freelander 2's dressed in a sophisticated gown. In the UK, FL2's had the emergency key located at the passenger door, which coincidentally serves as the drivers door in most other countries. It might be inferred that the Ford engineers responsible for the initial design of the FL2 encountered financial constraints that hindered their ability to get a lock system version specifically tailored for the UK market.

R-Tronic is often subject to negative criticism due to the susceptibility of individuals. R-Tronic does not belong to the PDK-type trans. The device in question is a manually controlled gearbox that operates automatically. It continues to change, adjust, and so on. This feature effectively obviates the need of manually engaging the clutch or shifting gears. However, the first evaluation of the product was conducted with the assumption that it would be a PDK-type automatic gearbox. This implies very precise and rapid alterations, among other things. Upon the release of the article/review, the majority of individuals enthusiastically embraced it, expressing their disapproval of the drawbacks of the R-Tronic. However, anyone who have personally used an R-tronic, particularly those who own one, will affirm that it continues to provide a genuine manual experience, alleviating concerns over its bulkiness. By activating the sports mode and manually adjusting the ratios (with either a shifter or paddles), you may experience the reciprocating surge characteristic of a genuine manual transmission. It resembles a reversion to manual transmissions at a time when they were on the verge of becoming obsolete. If one want the tactile sensation of a manual gearbox but desires to avoid the inconvenience and foot cramping associated with clutching in and out, the R-Tronic offers a compelling and exceptional alternative. If one wants to generate remarkable numerical values with a manufactured sense of transience, where the rate of change surpasses the ability to detect the point of shift, it is evident that transience is not suitable for such individuals. Essentially, the R-Tronic serves as a prime example of how one's expectations may be impacted by others, rather than the intended purpose of the R-Tronic. From my modest perspective

100%. Appreciating the uniqueness of a GT may be challenging without personal experience and a comprehensive understanding of its many defining characteristics. Evidently undervalued, as Osman pointed out. The bulk of modifications for the 1st generation are referred to be "GT-style" for a specific reason.

Accurate. To enable the proper functioning of the passenger airbag, it is necessary to attach a seat bladder.

The answer to your question depends on the specific sub you want to use. Shallow submarines are very advantageous in this location owing to limited space availability. However, genuine subwoofers need the presence of both the cubes and the magnet in order to produce a strong impact. What specific levels are you aiming to achieve? In my primary display area at home, I have two 21-inch, two 18-inch, and four 15-inch speakers, indicating my preference for low frequency sounds. The R8 is a challenging environment to generate high-quality sound below 30Hz. Indeed, if you substitute the seats, it will be necessary to disable the passenger air bag. Resistors are used to do this task in a straightforward manner.

I acknowledge that my message was not entirely correct, but I aimed to make my response concise and focused. I will remember this for future answers. The assistance provided did not lead to a solution for the original poster. Any suggestions made here are speculative, and it is recommended that the individual seeks out a skilled auto electrician to accurately identify the issue.

You must locate a proficient car electrician.

It seems to me that your problems are likely due to a defective battery cell or faulty terminations. You should get the battery thoroughly checked, rather than simply using a voltmeter for a quick check. The display may indicate 12 volts, but this reading lacks significance without a suitable load. Consult a qualified vehicle electrician to examine it, since else it would be purely speculative.

Thank you. Yes, that is my understanding. This is my first experience with CarPlay, therefore I am currently familiarising myself with its unique features.

I have discovered the solution to this. This is my first experience with CarPlay, therefore I am new to using it. Being a dedicated Apple user, I was frustrated that my 2017 Dodge Durango did not have CarPlay, which was included in the 2018 model. Here is the reason for the WiFi: Wireless CarPlay uses Wi-Fi for transmitting data like as Maps and Music. Bluetooth establishes the connection, whereas the data transmission occurs via Wi-Fi. Bluetooth lacks sufficient bandwidth and requires Wi-Fi for data transmission.

The CX-90 uses a WiFi connection for CarPlay, as mentioned in another discussion. Does anybody know the reason? Is there a specific rationale for choosing WiFi over Bluetooth? Bluetooth allows for simultaneous connections to several devices, but WiFi can only connect to one device at a time. This is likely to result in more problems.

Agreed. Connecting to CarPlay manually is ineffective. Next time, I will attempt to connect to a power source to see if it resolves the issue. However, my regular approach is to just turn off the vehicle and then resume it.

Next time it occurs, I will attempt to use a wired connection. Thank you

CarPlay connects successfully around 75% of the time. To establish a connection, I need to switch the vehicle off and then restart it 25% of the time. Is anybody else encountering this?

The latch is located behind the door card and functions as the lock mechanism. The striker pin is situated on the middle pillar to which the latch secures. Search for both terms on Google to find out!

The proposed remedy by Mazda was to apply oil. Drive fast and smoothly!