ENVIOclev

My TF Magna consistently has battery depletion after three days, even with a newly installed battery. Auto Electech was unable to identify the malfunction. I see that the fuel gauge remains illuminated; is it intended to stay active even after the ignition is turned off? Certainly, that need electric current.

Unable to assist I regret to inform you that I have only possessed an 8th Generation model.

That is an exceptional automobile.

https://www.autoglym.com/soft-top-clean-protect-complete-kit.html

Maintain closure wherever feasible to prevent the formation of wrinkles. Maintain cleanliness consistently and provide treatment routinely. I previously assisted a buddy with this matter, and it seemed to be effective.

I recommend proceeding to schedule the vehicle with the dealer instead than awaiting a response from Mercedes Benz customer support via email. If the vehicle malfunctions again, instead of using the SOS button, directly contact Mercedes Benz Mobilo roadside assistance at 00800 1777 7777. It is conducted in collaboration with RAC, which will provide prompt diagnosis at the roadside.

It is contingent upon various factors. I had a service plan that stipulated modifications based on whether the vehicle had accumulated 1,000 or 100,000 miles. It is important to note that mine is the turbo version, which may account for some differences; still, 100,000 miles is excessive, especially with iridium plugs.

Was that a Kia dealership? If so, they likely replaced the oil and filter and marked the others as completed. (I have experienced it and own the evidence.) As Lonner suggests, spark plugs are a viable option; I believe they were included as a fifth repair item for my vehicle.

Likely identical to the fourth year; was the fuel filter replaced?

Flywheel

there’s the video they sent me

The teeth on the starting motor have sustained damage. I own a video that was sent to me by the garage. How can I upload a video from my mobile device?

Thank you for your response. I drove the car to the garage, which was around 12 miles away, without any issues except for the loud noise coming from the engine. The noise was there when driving, but particularly noticeable while the car was stopped. I had to wait for 30 minutes with the engine off since the garage was not open yet. However, when I switched the vehicle on, there were no issues. Received a phone call thereafter detailing the many issues with the phone. Instructed the caller to communicate the issues via message. The following day, when retrieving the phone, I was informed that it failed to start when the caller attempted to move it after our departure, necessitating the use of a ramp to push it. The automobile now has an odometer reading of 144,000 miles, and I have driven around 12,000 miles since acquiring it. I have discovered a flywheel available for purchase on eBay. I would want to confirm if the flywheel, in conjunction with a starting motor, is sufficient for my needs, or whether a torque converter is also required. I believe the timing chain was replaced some time ago, but I am unable to locate the accompanying documentation. However, I do own it someplace. Thank you.

Hello everyone, I own a 2012 BMW 520D GT F07. The automobile underwent turbo replacement at the garage and is now malfunctioning. Received a communication from the garage stating: The flywheel ring gear has become detached from the torque converter located within the gearbox bell housing. To resolve this problem, the gearbox will need to be removed and a new starting motor installed. Although I lack expertise in mechanics, I am seeking someone who can provide a simplified explanation. Today, I visited a technician who had limited proficiency in English. Despite the language barrier, I showed him a video of the issue. He accurately identified the problem and recommended replacing the flywheel as a solution. Is a starting motor the only additional component I need? What is the function of a torque converter? Thank you for any assistance.

In my own experience, I have found that there is often a connection between a worn track rod end and a front control arm link. An ocular examination will reveal no abnormalities as they look to be in satisfactory condition. Once someone begins to wear something, the others are essentially becoming obsolete as well. Currently, I am studying the C programming language independently. I need to do maintenance since there is brake judder. Since the issue is originating from the front right wheel, I will proceed to replace both the upper and lower control arms, the drop link, and the track rod end. This refers to the regular maintenance that is performed once a year, or if you are fortunate, every two years. The issue with service and maintenance timeframes is that they fail to consider the deplorable condition of our roadways. I am not implying that this issue is specifically attributed to you. Providing my own perspective based on my experience dealing with these vehicles. Is the wheel bent or distorted? Possibly, but unlikely. As previously said, a visual examination will often reveal no significant findings, save for the possibility of a degraded rubber grease bush/cover (if fortunate). What is the reason for replacing all of the components? As you progress over the course of many months, you will be continuously replacing each one individually, resulting in a never-ending cycle.

I replaced mine few years ago. I retained the 8 pieces of antiquated paper licenses for as long as feasible, but it eventually became burdensome. The picture card version is stored in the window section of my wallet, allowing me to easily present it as photo identification when necessary.

No, the issue has not been resolved yet. I have consulted many mechanics, and each one has provided varying viewpoints and suggested solutions. A technician recommended replacing the front upper strut mounts and also advised changing the shock absorbers in the front. Prior to presenting his inquiry conclusions, he diligently secured several nuts and bolts below. One had replaced its front shock absorbers and link pins. As a result of conflicting viewpoints, I have purchased a vehicle noise detection equipment and will connect it once it comes to pinpoint the precise origin of the problem before taking it to a technician for repairs. Please include any hyperlinks, images, or videos that serve as references for the repairs you mentioned, such as anti-roll bars, front shock absorber top mounts, and ball joints.

I saw a video on YouTube by Scotty where he used a multi-microphone apparatus to detect and locate sound origins. I attempted to use a solitary microphone, but the ambient noise emanating from the automobile overwhelms all other sounds. I assume that the issue may lie with either the amplifier unit in the rear right, the rear lamps, or a loose plate below the vehicle.

It seems like we have the same issue based on the information provided. I had both the suspension and brakes thoroughly inspected by two separate technicians, although they were unable to identify any issues. Its modest volume makes it more conspicuous at low speeds.

Attention all members - use caution in your communication, particularly in private communications, until the verification process for this new member is complete.

I have just changed the tires within the last 6 months. I installed the Sumitomo ZIII tires for street racing. Indeed, I am endeavouring to enhance the manoeuvrability by using larger or alternative sway bars in addition to the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) ones. The vehicle is undoubtedly more weighty than my B5 A4 was, but, by incorporating some more rigid elements and taking use of the quattro system, I anticipate addressing the problem of understeer. My first inquiry is if anybody is replacing the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) sway bars, and if so, with what alternatives. I am contemplating the installation of the H&R front and rear kit, but, I have also come across the Audi S4 setup. This is the reason why I have sought assistance from this community. I am certain that there is already an individual who has successfully resolved the problem of understeer or the "floating front end" on this particular platform. Thank you everyone.

The alignment is verified and adjusted. I had it refurbished when I replaced the control arms.

Greetings, everyone. I am now in the last stage of enhancing the suspension of my 2010 B8 A5 quattro. I am seeking ideas from anybody who has experience with this particular vehicle. I acknowledge its age, which implies that it has undergone several test trials. I am seeking to enhance the suspension's rigidity and reduce the occurrence of understeer in this weighty vehicle. At elevated velocities, the front of the vehicle exhibits a sensation of levitation, and during high-speed turns, the traction control system remains engaged. Up to this point, I have installed Billstein lowering shocks and struts to replace and reduce the height of my vehicle. Additionally, I have equipped my S4 19 inch wheels with 034 control arm kits, H&R lowering springs, spacers, a stage II turbo and an IE inner cooler. Has anybody achieved optimal results with either the 034 or the H&R sway bar kits? What are your thoughts on the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) S4 sway bar kit? Once again, I am seeking a much firmer suspension for improved road handling at high velocities. I eagerly anticipate any forthcoming responses.... (I will soon update my profile with fresh photographs.) Thank you.

An alternative is to eliminate them. Another option is to slightly deform the metal posts to improve their alignment, however one should carefully evaluate the potential impact on the safety features of the headrest in the event of an accident.

Would you want to schedule an appointment with a professional who specialises in Volkswagen Audi Group (VAG) vehicles?