ENVIOclev

The top mountings of the dampers you referenced are entirely different, irrespective of their functional aspects.

The system does not regulate ride height; it is designed for active damping, whereby the solenoid adjusts the suspension stiffness based on the control setting. The air suspension system regulates ride height. It pertains not to off-roading, but to calibrating the damper properties for on-road driving.

Corrosion may be present on the terminal connection at the fuel tank end.

It is reassuring to hear that; I may exert significant force on it tomorrow, as it cannot cause any detriment.

The first action I took was to tap the gauge; being used to analogue dials, I found it ineffective, since it is now a digital or at least an electronic gauge. Perhaps I should tap with more force!

Thank you for the information; my Magna is a 1998 model, but it is likely identical to the 1999 version. I will examine the tank connection to see whether there is a short circuit; however, I suspect the issue may reside inside the fuel gauge itself, since it consistently displays a reading, which might indicate a problem behind the instrument panel. It is difficult to believe that a little distortion of the gasoline gauge might result in battery depletion; yet, I can manage by recharging it every third or fourth day. Thank you once more; I will assess the outcome.

I only saw it a few days ago, although it may have been occurring since the drain issue began, which has persisted for almost six months. Could there be a malfunction in the fuel tank gauge or float?

My TF Magna consistently has battery depletion after three days, even with a newly installed battery. Auto Electech was unable to identify the malfunction. I see that the fuel gauge remains illuminated; is it intended to stay active even after the ignition is turned off? Certainly, that need electric current.

Unable to assist I regret to inform you that I have only possessed an 8th Generation model.

That is an exceptional automobile.

https://www.autoglym.com/soft-top-clean-protect-complete-kit.html

Maintain closure wherever feasible to prevent the formation of wrinkles. Maintain cleanliness consistently and provide treatment routinely. I previously assisted a buddy with this matter, and it seemed to be effective.

I recommend proceeding to schedule the vehicle with the dealer instead than awaiting a response from Mercedes Benz customer support via email. If the vehicle malfunctions again, instead of using the SOS button, directly contact Mercedes Benz Mobilo roadside assistance at 00800 1777 7777. It is conducted in collaboration with RAC, which will provide prompt diagnosis at the roadside.

It is contingent upon various factors. I had a service plan that stipulated modifications based on whether the vehicle had accumulated 1,000 or 100,000 miles. It is important to note that mine is the turbo version, which may account for some differences; still, 100,000 miles is excessive, especially with iridium plugs.

Was that a Kia dealership? If so, they likely replaced the oil and filter and marked the others as completed. (I have experienced it and own the evidence.) As Lonner suggests, spark plugs are a viable option; I believe they were included as a fifth repair item for my vehicle.

Likely identical to the fourth year; was the fuel filter replaced?

Flywheel

there’s the video they sent me

The teeth on the starting motor have sustained damage. I own a video that was sent to me by the garage. How can I upload a video from my mobile device?

Thank you for your response. I drove the car to the garage, which was around 12 miles away, without any issues except for the loud noise coming from the engine. The noise was there when driving, but particularly noticeable while the car was stopped. I had to wait for 30 minutes with the engine off since the garage was not open yet. However, when I switched the vehicle on, there were no issues. Received a phone call thereafter detailing the many issues with the phone. Instructed the caller to communicate the issues via message. The following day, when retrieving the phone, I was informed that it failed to start when the caller attempted to move it after our departure, necessitating the use of a ramp to push it. The automobile now has an odometer reading of 144,000 miles, and I have driven around 12,000 miles since acquiring it. I have discovered a flywheel available for purchase on eBay. I would want to confirm if the flywheel, in conjunction with a starting motor, is sufficient for my needs, or whether a torque converter is also required. I believe the timing chain was replaced some time ago, but I am unable to locate the accompanying documentation. However, I do own it someplace. Thank you.

Hello everyone, I own a 2012 BMW 520D GT F07. The automobile underwent turbo replacement at the garage and is now malfunctioning. Received a communication from the garage stating: The flywheel ring gear has become detached from the torque converter located within the gearbox bell housing. To resolve this problem, the gearbox will need to be removed and a new starting motor installed. Although I lack expertise in mechanics, I am seeking someone who can provide a simplified explanation. Today, I visited a technician who had limited proficiency in English. Despite the language barrier, I showed him a video of the issue. He accurately identified the problem and recommended replacing the flywheel as a solution. Is a starting motor the only additional component I need? What is the function of a torque converter? Thank you for any assistance.

In my own experience, I have found that there is often a connection between a worn track rod end and a front control arm link. An ocular examination will reveal no abnormalities as they look to be in satisfactory condition. Once someone begins to wear something, the others are essentially becoming obsolete as well. Currently, I am studying the C programming language independently. I need to do maintenance since there is brake judder. Since the issue is originating from the front right wheel, I will proceed to replace both the upper and lower control arms, the drop link, and the track rod end. This refers to the regular maintenance that is performed once a year, or if you are fortunate, every two years. The issue with service and maintenance timeframes is that they fail to consider the deplorable condition of our roadways. I am not implying that this issue is specifically attributed to you. Providing my own perspective based on my experience dealing with these vehicles. Is the wheel bent or distorted? Possibly, but unlikely. As previously said, a visual examination will often reveal no significant findings, save for the possibility of a degraded rubber grease bush/cover (if fortunate). What is the reason for replacing all of the components? As you progress over the course of many months, you will be continuously replacing each one individually, resulting in a never-ending cycle.

I replaced mine few years ago. I retained the 8 pieces of antiquated paper licenses for as long as feasible, but it eventually became burdensome. The picture card version is stored in the window section of my wallet, allowing me to easily present it as photo identification when necessary.

No, the issue has not been resolved yet. I have consulted many mechanics, and each one has provided varying viewpoints and suggested solutions. A technician recommended replacing the front upper strut mounts and also advised changing the shock absorbers in the front. Prior to presenting his inquiry conclusions, he diligently secured several nuts and bolts below. One had replaced its front shock absorbers and link pins. As a result of conflicting viewpoints, I have purchased a vehicle noise detection equipment and will connect it once it comes to pinpoint the precise origin of the problem before taking it to a technician for repairs. Please include any hyperlinks, images, or videos that serve as references for the repairs you mentioned, such as anti-roll bars, front shock absorber top mounts, and ball joints.

I saw a video on YouTube by Scotty where he used a multi-microphone apparatus to detect and locate sound origins. I attempted to use a solitary microphone, but the ambient noise emanating from the automobile overwhelms all other sounds. I assume that the issue may lie with either the amplifier unit in the rear right, the rear lamps, or a loose plate below the vehicle.