Rudy7831

You may either consult your local MB dealer or explore eBay (I opted for the eBay option).

If you have not changed the gearbox fluid after all this time, I would strongly recommend doing so. The quality of the brake fluid is dubious. Carbon deposits at 20,000 miles? This suggests that they removed the intake tube and conducted a visual examination of the throttle body. I own significant scepticism about it. If I were in your position, I would seek a reliable independent garage.

12.61 volts after an overnight period of inactivity. That will suffice enough.

I was previously unaware of it, but the Ctek has been operating for just seventy-five minutes and has reached Stage 7 (Float). Strangely, the voltmeter indicates only 12.98 volts between the Ctek terminals and the charging posts, although it should register 13.5 volts. I believe there is no cause for concern, given the rapid charging of the battery.

After twenty-four hours, it has decreased to 12.44 volts. The voltage decrease is 0.07 volts; although this may seem little, if my battery charge chart is accurate, with 12.5 volts indicating 90% charge and 12.42 volts representing 80% charge, I should maybe be rather worried.

It was charged just by trickle while I was using it. The battery is located behind the driver's seat, making it difficult to access, therefore preventing me from verifying its date. The importer, without prompting, informed me that accessing the battery was quite challenging, particularly since they initially searched for it beneath the passenger seat. This suggests that they researched the procedure for a left-hand drive vehicle and confirms that the battery has indeed been replaced. What was the reason behind its flatness? I am uncertain. Terry Gates proposed that the malfunction of the tailgate might have resulted on a battery depletion. After standing overnight for eighteen hours, it displayed 12.51 volts at the charging terminals under the hood today, indicating it may be functioning properly presently. I am monitoring it closely.

The 2007 ML 63 Japanese import I just acquired had remained stationary for a week, connected to a trickle charger while I was familiarizing myself with the new head unit (still in the process...), but had not been operated otherwise. Last Monday, I attempted to deliver it to Terry Gates for tailgate repairs, but the electrical system was completely nonfunctional—no unlocking, no illumination on the dashboard, and the key would not turn in the ignition. I effortlessly jump-started it using the other ML, then drove it to Harrow, which took around thirty-five minutes. It was not charged throughout the period it was being serviced, and I retrieved it on Friday. It began satisfactorily. The importer asserts that they installed a new battery, and I believe this assertion to be accurate. The inquiry is if a brief duration of somewhat more than thirty minutes suffices to totally recharge a depleted battery, or whether the electrical system is designed to deactivate at a certain voltage to avert total battery drain.

The item in the advertisement I referenced seems to be functional as well.

Affirmative. I periodically retrieve the glove from one and make a call to maintain the PAYG account. However, it seldom requires recharging.

We own a minimum of two Nokias stored at Chez Spiky; Edit: we have three, one of which serves as an emergency phone in Mrs. Spiky's automobile glovebox.

The cradle in my R129 is affixed to an extension of the central console, which, to my knowledge, is an original Mercedes-Benz component. I am uncertain about how it is preserved, but I choose not to eliminate it and maybe discover underlying damage.

https://www.4starclassics.com/for-sale/mercedes-c215-cl600-for-sale/

It is priced at 17K and includes a CL600.

Mine does not fluctuate... ever... as it reaches the desired temperature, it remains consistently stable at 90 degrees, with a variance of one or two degrees. This was true for all my recent vehicles. If the stat (which determines the lowest operational temperature) and the fan along with its switch (which determines the peak temperature) are functioning correctly, this is how it should operate.

I assert that it is the signature of Carl Benz. It is one of those subtle details.

I have used small USB sticks, which are little in size, for several years.

The crank sensor is likely the issue; it often exhibits erratic behaviour before ultimately failing, resulting in a no-start condition.

The hub knuckle, driveshaft, all suspension arms, level sensor, and shock absorber/spring are the evident components shown in that image. The subframe seems to be in excellent condition. All components are straightforward bolt-on pieces. I am concerned about potential damage to the other end of the shaft in the motor/drive unit, since it might incur significant costs.

It is necessary to retrieve problem codes using the star machine. Common issues include wear in valve bodies and dual clutch units. Given the age of the vehicle, you should have completed three gearbox oil maintenance by now.

By "upgrade," do you imply a more luminous option? The vehicle employs a CANBUS system, which may not register sufficient current demand from the LED lamps, resulting in power shutdown. Are the new lights compatible with CANBUS?

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Thank you one again. I will proceed with it and replace the plugs concurrently.

alternative codes - I have many codes to address. The predominant issues linked to the stereo system stem from a technician who "repaired" the original equipment manufacturer Bang & Olufsen amplifier by severing the harness and manually connecting a small Bose unit as a substitute after failing to recode a new OEM amplifier. It was a two-year ordeal. Certain codes remain enigmatic to me, since the components seem to function well (the fuel door and central locking operate perfectly despite displaying codes). Initially, I considered plugs or coils; however, I began to doubt this reasoning since everything seemed to "reset" when turning off the ignition. It is reassuring to know that you share the same initial sentiments.

Hello, I am experiencing a persistent issue with misfiring and cylinder deactivation and would much appreciate any assistance. The vehicle operates efficiently until I speed substantially, such as when merging onto a highway. The vehicle exhibits misfiring; I see a "pulse" (or two), the EPC light activates (steady), and the Engine Light illuminates (flashing). The automobile begins to operate poorly. Upon pulling over, turning off the ignition, and restarting the vehicle, both the EPC and engine warning lights illuminate, however the engine light ceases to blink. When I turn off the ignition and open and close the driver's door before restarting, the EPC light turns off, but the engine light remains on (not flashing). VCDS diagnostics reveal two engine faults: a misfire in Cylinder 5 and Cylinder Deactivation. Upon erasing the trouble codes, the vehicle operates normally till I accelerate moderately once again. I have provided two VCD scan files. The first file (A) is immediately subsequent to my deliberate instigation of the problems. The second file (B) was recorded after I turned off the ignition and opened and closed my door prior to resuming. The scans indicate that Cylinder Disabling transitions from "Not Confirmed" to "Intermittent Confirmed." Does anybody have any recommendations? Your feedback would be highly valued.

Your vehicle seems to be in superb condition. I like the crimson hue. I have an inquiry for you, however. Where might one do a high-speed run in your vicinity? Few locations in the nation would instill confidence for achieving 200mph, however the Dakotas and Nebraska/Kansas are likely viable options. I want to exceed 200 mph in my automobile by next summer.