NevoBMW320i

Are you hitting them with sufficient force? Never encountered that issue in more than half a century.

arriving in 2015 with an F02. After chasing some intriguing electrical gremlins on the automobile, I decided to join after hovering for a time. Excited to delve deeper into the wealth of knowledge shared here and, with any luck, make a meaningful contribution where I can. Pleasure to be a part of it.

the 30thd.

Since I can code them myself and had all of the injectors removed last year to replace the valve cover gasket, I might get the four old injectors I've seen online for less than £50. Fingers crossed

This is something I haven't checked, so I'll have to get back to you on that. Thank you.

Additionally, since replacing the glow plug, I have not experienced any glow plug faults. When I had a glow plug fault on cylinder 1, the system threw a code even though the glow plug heated up. This suggests that the system is highly sensitive to glow plug faults. After I replaced the glow plug, the fault vanished and has not returned. Thank you.

Hello, I fixed the glow plug issue I experienced on cylinder 1 last year. Just in case, I also replaced the module before replacing the glow plug. Thank you.

It always seems like a misfire when starting cold, but it will start normally once heated.

Unfortunately, there are no fault codes. I believe this is because it resolves the issue on its own. Thank you.

Hello, my 2011 320D with the N47 engine has developed a problem that only occurs after the engine has been off for a while, such as overnight or after a 12-hour shift. Basically, it runs rough on first start up for about 30 seconds to a minute before settling down. I believe it is misfiring because the dash RPM needle drops (it doesn't go above 800 rpm) and dances between 600 and 800 rpm. I can feel the car is shaking at idle, and when I rev the engine. When the car is warm, it pulls and drives really well, and if I restart the engine, I have no problems. I wait for it to settle before I drive home. My EGR had continual EGR-related problems, so I replaced it with a genuine BMW, changed the mass air flow with a genuine sensor, and replaced the glow plug on cylinder 1 with a Bosch glow plug because it had a glow plug actuation fault. As of right now, I just have the brake vacuum sensor as a fault code. Is it possible that this injector is acting strangely when it's cold? The car may have the original injectors because it has 211k on it. Cylinder 1's values were bouncing around more erratically than the others during startup, but they settled down when the rough idle settled and the results showed that everything was within the normal range. Any suggestions or other things I could check for? I ran a rough running test and looked at the injector correction values. Regards

I am unaware of your vehicle, but mine was subpar; there is a substantial nut.The BMW F82 M4 differential employs a substantial, single-use M39 nut with a 1.5mm thread pitch for the input flange (pinion shaft), necessitating specialised equipment and considerable power for removal and accurate torque application. Nuts are also related with the axle shaft seals (output seals). I indicated that the Loctite used was not factory-sourced; however, it must have been, as the vehicle had only 20,000 miles at the time of purchase. Regardless, they successfully removed it, but my differential emitted a whine upon reassembly. Consequently, they procured a new differential and installed it, resolving the issue. Naturally, I incurred no costs for the new differential or associated labour. Nevertheless, I remain uncertain about the differences between the M4 and standard vehicles, as the differential fins and similar components are larger and more robust. The initial leak was addressed, and servicing is required following the leak repair.I required a pinion seal from a BMW shop. The service cost was £88, while the repair for the leak was approximately £400. My vehicle exhibited discolouration followed by a weep, prompting me to cease driving until I could schedule an appointment.

The handbrake must be engaged to reset; nevertheless, it appears that the sensor was not replaced.

Examine the sensor wire; if it is shorted, sever it and connect the ends leading into the plug box within the inner guard, then reset the light.

Are there any guides available for resetting the Blend Door Actuator?

Apologies, I neglected to include that. BMW 330e, 2016 F30 B48 engine

Hello everyone, I trust you are all in good health. Yesterday, I drove my own vehicle to a work conference. All is proceeding smoothly during the drive. I certainly activated the heating. I observed that it was not heating up as it typically does; but, I assumed that the low temperatures outside would allow the automobile to warm up eventually. The heating is functioning properly. I adjusted the temperature to 22 degrees. After 90 minutes of driving, it began to emit chilly air from the air conditioning system. The rate seemed equivalent to the fan operating at settings two or three, despite the heating fan being on its lowest level; I found it perplexing. While on the motorway, I preferred not to engage with it. I temporarily deactivated the heating system and subsequently reactivated it. identical. I subsequently elevated the temperature to 24 degrees. Heat was emitted at a gradual rate. Subsequently, it emitted chilly air from the air conditioning unit. Following a day at the conference, I departed as normal, and a similar occurrence transpired on my journey home. Can somebody elucidate the current situation? Is there anything I can examine to assist with the diagnosis?

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Indeed accurate.

The potentially exorbitant 40 mph speed limit on the fastest highways ......

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A few low-mileage vehicles are available here in Jersey; I observed one locally. E63 estate with merely 4,000 kilometres accumulated over 8 years. I do not consider £39,000 to be an unfavourable pricing, to be honest.

Greetings everyone, I have been an infrequent user of this site for an extended period, but this is my first time registering; I seek the insights of this esteemed community. I have owned a 2012 E46 330d M-Sport manual touring with 204 horsepower, and it has shown to be exceptionally reliable. It is mechanically sound; nonetheless, it has succumbed to corrosion. It failed the MOT today due to corrosion around the sills, chassis structure, and jacking points. The garage estimates that repairs could exceed £1,000, leading me to believe that it may no longer be financially feasible. The engine has 142,000 miles, has had a swirl flap deletion, and received a new clutch and flywheel around three years ago. It operates exceptionally well; I thoroughly enjoy driving it, making this a rather sombre day. While it is convenient to summon scrappers, it seems somewhat unethical given the abundance of salvageable components. Is there a demand for these components? Should I attempt to sell it in its current condition on Gumtree or eBay? Thank you in advance.

I concur; the responsibility should not be solely placed on the parking pawl. Engage the handbrake/e-brake first, then shift into park (P). In certain vehicles, selecting 'P' activates the electronic brake, as observed in my M340i and the M5; nonetheless, it is advisable to engage the parking brake first to prevent undue stress on the parking pawl.

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