KWILB

Thank you very much. I will examine both of your points.

https://www.thebodyshop.com/?awc=7899_1762859865_37c6befbd3ba7ff1e5d82aba2281bfeb&sv_affiliate_id=78888&sv_campaign_id=78888&sv_tax1=affiliate&sv_tax2=403369|557555|573031&sv_tax3=Skimlinks&sv_tax4=forums.mbclub.co.uk&utm_campaign=Sub Networks&utm_content=Skimlinks&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_source=awin&utm_term=78888

Thank you for your response. Negative, to the best of our knowledge. The door was closed in the photographs. I might need to bring it to the auto repair shop.

Greetings, everyone. A few days ago, I entered my automobile and observed a damp area on the driver's seat. Discovered that water has been infiltrating through a minor crevice. What is the optimal method to address this issue? Any assistance would be welcomed. Thank you in advance.

Google

Greetings to all I possess a 2022 C Class Estate and extensively utilise the Mercedes Me software on my iPhone. It consistently functions effectively, providing information regarding the vehicle's status, security condition, location, and more. Recently, the app has ceased functioning, albeit sporadically. For instance, it inaccurately displays the car's location, indicating a position I occupied an hour prior. It indicates that the automobile is unlocked when it is not. It does not respond to the app's request to lock the doors, open the windows, etc. It appears that a Mercedes server may be malfunctioning or operating at a significantly reduced speed. Network connection concerns may be ruled out, as the vehicle has consistently functioned well in the same locations for several years. A few hours later, as the automobile remains in the same spot, everything begins to function again. It is sporadic yet somewhat common in recent days. Is anyone else observing this behaviour, please? Is this a recognised issue that I have overlooked? I observed that an individual on Twitter (X) reported identical behaviour regarding his vehicle a few days prior. I am enquiring whether there exists a universal issue with the system. Do you have any suggestions? Kind regards

I understand that a specific amount of posts is required to access the purchasing and selling sites; so, I surmise that 'Insufficient Privileges' pertains to your membership duration and post count.

Typically, it involves a minor fracture in the antenna lines, a grounding problem, or corrosion on the connector or wires within the C pillar. Is there any section of the window that remains unfrosted? There is a slim possibility of a fine break resulting in arcing across the fracture.

Thank you. It was formerly my mother's vehicle, which I operated during my adolescence; it had familial significance.

Thank you. The kit appears to be identical to the one in the link I provided, but it is being sold by a different vendor on eBay. The eBay option is indeed pricier but offers shipping to numerous locations...

Can someone confirm that this kit is suitable for all versions, from HCS 1.1 to XR2?

https://fastroadcars.co.uk/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=338

Indeed! I mistakenly conflated it with the 1.6 CVH; my apologies for the error. Interestingly, a certain website includes "XR2" in its compatibility list, suggesting the existence of an earlier XR2 Mk2 Fiesta equipped with a carburettor.

Greetings to all. I wish to communicate and seek counsel regarding my findings on carburettor kits for the Weber TLD (M). Several websites list carburettor kits designated as compatible with the XR2i and other Fiesta variants equipped with 1.3 and 1.1 HCS engines. However, upon examining the Haynes handbook, the carburettors appear to exhibit tiny variations. The XR2i version is the TLD, lacking the "M" at the end. The M version appears to be installed longitudinally based on my findings, suggesting that certain variants of the XR2i may have featured it. Additionally, an examination of the specifications in the Haynes manual reveals minor discrepancies in nozzle dimensions and final calibrations. However, it is possible that the carburettors are fundamentally identical and that the same O-rings and gaskets are applicable. Additionally, it is crucial to enquire about the diaphragms; many kits may lack these. Are the sizes identical between the TLD and TLDM models? I sincerely appreciate your support and wish you all well.

Therefore, it is not a network problem. In the absence of several individuals reporting the same problem, I cannot discern any alternative explanation.

The probable cause is that the eSIM has lost its connection to the server, maybe due to inadequate mobile signal or a malfunction. A reset often reinitializes the eSIM, allowing it to detect the network. Have your Live Services ceased functioning?

I would want a reduced volatility engine oil and/or an oil collect tank.

May assist if you need OEM.

According to recollection, it attaches behind the centre console and has a solitary screw into the carpet area, which becomes inconspicuous upon removal.

Consider establishing the Guest profile to reflect your interests as well.

Upon occupying the driver's seat, aim your gaze towards the display panel; if your profile has been previously configured, it should identify you. If you receive the device and promptly press the start button, it may not recognise you; thus, wait a few seconds before pressing the start button. I have observed that at times, wearing a cap or sunglasses impedes recognition. I understand the frustration, therefore I configured one of my preset buttons for my convenience and simply activate that instead. Best of luck

The key battery is unrelated to the ignition process.

Alignment is necessary after the alteration of the lower arms. However, it is not instantaneous; I used my vehicle for many days until the task was completed. The vehicle proceeded forward but would only veer and maintain its position if I slightly adjusted the steering wheel to the left or right. I used paint markings to achieve optimal alignment similar to its previous state. It resembles a new vehicle once again; the effort was undoubtedly worthwhile.

Based on all available information, replacing alone the bushings is rather difficult without the appropriate press and inserts. You would also need to purchase the ball joint. Purchasing an aftermarket arm is much simpler, since they are priced at little over $100. Changing the arms is not a difficult task at all. Once I successfully freed the ball joint from the knuckle, I need less than two hours to remove the arm and install the new one. I recently seen videos demonstrating the procedure. Additionally, it is far more manageable with the appropriate equipment; I acquired a dead blow hammer, a map gas torch, and ratcheting wrenches.

I experienced a clunk in the right front when I used the brakes forcefully or over a speed bump at an elevated speed. I altered my upper arms, but it proved ineffective. The top ball joint had ruptured, resulting in grease leakage, which led me to that conclusion. I replaced the lower arms, which completely resolved the issue; the problem was a lower arm bushing. The repair was rather economical using aftermarket arms; nevertheless, detaching the ball joint conical bolt from the steering knuckle proved to be a challenging task.