KWILB

I experienced a clunk in the right front when I used the brakes forcefully or over a speed bump at an elevated speed. I altered my upper arms, but it proved ineffective. The top ball joint had ruptured, resulting in grease leakage, which led me to that conclusion. I replaced the lower arms, which completely resolved the issue; the problem was a lower arm bushing. The repair was rather economical using aftermarket arms; nevertheless, detaching the ball joint conical bolt from the steering knuckle proved to be a challenging task.

I would be quite reluctant to put any substances on my brake rotors. Their operation involves the friction generated between the brake pad material and the revolving steel discs. Any substance you apply would a) be rapidly removed during your next drive (together with any accumulated rust) and b) might adversely affect friction, resulting in less stopping power.

Treeri ???? Do they not correspond to any of the kinds I previously listed? It should be straightforward to extract one from the fuse box and measure it.

Any assistance...

Having awaited the release of the new model, I have not seen the earlier versions, so lacking a basis for comparison except than my prior diverse collection, none of which resembled the Evoque. I am similarly searching, although utterly perplexed over the appropriate course to pursue. I am inclined to transition to a fully electric vehicle, although my rationality, along with others' opinions, suggests it may not be the most prudent choice. I like to retain the Evoque, but I am uncertain about the financial implications of the new fully electric model. (SWMBO may also have considerable influence in that regard). It is advantageous that you own two new vehicles for comparison, and it will be intriguing to evaluate their dependability. We hope you have as much enjoyment with your new Evoque as you did with your last one. 👍🏻

Verify if an indicator or light has been left on.

Should I disassemble the steering column?

Could you kindly indicate the position of the sensor?

It is a 2006 facelift model of the Z4 2.5.

The speedometer is functioning; nevertheless, the steering light is on, and steering has become difficult.

Can somebody disclose the position of the vehicle speed sensor? I verified the vehicle's speed; it is fixed at 50 mph.

One individual on either this platform or the other forum had an issue with the SL350 bcm. The item underwent repairs and the wiring was modified. Perform a search - the discussion was really illuminating. Revision - I was active on a different online discussion platform. Post 366 in the thread titled "Living with an R230".

I am uncertain of the solution, but typically providing a little amount of money to your local towbar fitting specialist, who has the necessary tool, will result in the task being completed.

it would be very difficult, if not impossible, to identify the underlying source of the issue with the presence of a song. Therefore, the first step is often to eliminate the tune and essentially begin over. Best wishes!

Welcome aboard, mate! However, it is improbable that you will discover a straightforward resolution considering the fact that your automobile deviates much from the norm. I recommend doing a comprehensive scan of your vehicle utilising VCDS Ross Tech in order to establish a reference point and starting position. I would also eliminate all of the adjustments and revert to the regular settings, then begin over. Wishing you the best of success and do update us with any new information, please!

Bring the vehicle to an automotive gearbox professional who will be able to accurately identify and analyse the issue for you.

I infer that the individual is referring to the mechatronic unit, since they simply state their belief that the mechatronic device is the cause of the issue.

I have an appointment with a BMW expert on Thursday, and I hope they are knowledgeable about the specific issues I am experiencing. It is somewhat difficult to drive without knowing when a breakdown can occur, which can be quite amusing in a somewhat ironic way.

I have seen that it has two sets of aftermarket LED headlights and peculiar power boxes secured with wire ties in the engine compartment. Perhaps these components are related.

If there is a power drain in the car, would it result in the car being completely without power by the time I attempt to start it? Currently, the car starts up normally and functions properly, but suddenly dies after a few days. I am able to jump-start it for approximately 3 minutes, and then it runs for about 5 days before dying again. Earlier, it died but started up normally after a short period of time.

If there are no error messages, I am uncertain about the battery voltage, albeit it is a fresh battery. There is a red component like a fuse box located on top of the battery. If the connection has been tested and seems to be functioning properly, it is possible that there is a short circuit somewhere.

Hello, I recently purchased a 2009 e90 330d msport. However, I have encountered an issue with the battery draining and eventually dying. I have already replaced the battery, but the problem persists. I have checked the crankshaft pulley and it seems to be in good condition. Additionally, I have accessed the hidden menu on the dashboard and observed that the alternator voltage is at 14v. It is quite perplexing because the car can run for a few days after a jump start, but then it dies again. Prior to the car dying, all the warning lights on the dashboard illuminate. I would greatly appreciate any insights or suggestions, as I am not knowledgeable about these matters.

How can you effectively regulate the fuel level in the tank to prevent the accumulation of stale petrol during daily drives of 50 miles or less? Do you just maintain the minimal amount of petrol to prevent it from becoming stale after sitting for weeks? I will be using 93 octane fuel with the typical E10 mixture at the Shell fuel dispenser.