paulh2602601

Although my 116i Sport was equipped with a Champ II, I do not remember having the ability to access any engine sensors. The vehicle was equipped with 'sport' dials on the screen, however they were non-functional due to the ECU not transmitting speed and RPM data. There were no more gauges. The Champ II is equipped with a 6-pin display connection.

The outward design of the EQE/EQS does not bother me, especially as I have previously owned many SAAB 9000 combi coupés. An exemplary and functional design. Those automobiles have a large enough interior space to accommodate a small couch. I continue to have a sense of longing for SAAB. However, among all the EQEs available on the second-hand market, there are several options in my country. Unfortunately, none of them are equipped with the "Hyper Screen," which, in my opinion, should have been a standard feature for a vehicle in that price range. However, all of them had dashboards resembling the "IPad" layout, which I find aesthetically unappealing to the extent that I would not contemplate any of them. Why are the majority of electric vehicles developed in this manner? Are electric vehicles immune to issues caused by solar glare? Are EVs immune to issues such as unintentional impacts on the displays or inadvertent dropping of tiny objects beneath the display panels?

The module, a replacement component purchased from Ebay for £100, with part number 6520-9193841, functioned instantly upon installation. Replaced the cover by applying a continuous line of tigerseal adhesive around its perimeter.

Could you provide any advice on how to effectively purchase a high-quality replacement component from eBay? All of these components are second-hand items obtained from dismantlers. There is no assurance that the replacement will be operational, even if the advertisement claims that it has been tested and is in working condition. I attempted to install the replacement, but it did not function. However, how can I ascertain that the component itself is not the cause of the issue?

Visually, the two items seem to be indistinguishable, and the E70 component with the same part number is compatible. I believe these items are suitable, but I am hesitant to make a purchase without verification.

The E70 model also includes virtually similar components with part numbers 9193847 or 9134281. Are these parts compatible with one other?

The issue does not lie with the keys, since both the primary and backup keys have functioned well in the past but are now non-functional. Although I didn't get a photograph, the condition of the item was satisfactory overall. However, there were little instances of white corrosion present on the lower side and around some portions of the circuitry on the top. I used alcohol and a toothbrush to cleanse it, and the residue was effortlessly removed. It is useful to be aware that both part numbers are appropriate. Thank you for sharing. Additionally, there are additional possibilities available for the LCI part number on eBay.

Greetings, everyone. The key fob for my central locking system is malfunctioning. The central locking system works well when using the internal dash button, and the vehicle may also be locked using the valet key. The issue occurred last winter but subsequently resolved itself and remained problem-free throughout the year. During the winter season, there was a sudden drop in. This occurrence has persisted and there has been no natural improvement since then. I have perused written articles and seen visual content demonstrating the process of substituting the diversity antenna situated behind the rear boot spoiler. I uncovered the module and proceeded to extract and cleanse it. The item had little water damage, but it was not significant. I removed the dirt off this and reinstalled it onto the automobile. The previous attempt was unsuccessful. I conducted a voltage test on the connection pins, which consisted of 4 wires. Through several wire combinations, I saw the expected voltage levels of either 12V or 5V. The subsequent course of action involves replacing the module. However, the presence of voltage on the cables raises the question of whether this indicates the module is functioning properly or whether there may be a potential wiring problem, which is another plausible explanation. Additionally, should the plastic cover be completely sealed on both sides using Tiger Seal or a similar adhesive? Additionally, the component number installed on my vehicle is 6520-6934846. However, there seems to be a physically equivalent LCI model part with the part number 6520-9193841. Are these units interchangeable? Thank you.

Search the forum, since this question is often asked.

We appreciate your contribution. Do you own a P30? Do the observations that the vehicle maintains its height without sagging even after being stationary for weeks, remains level, uniformly adjusts the height of all wheels when the height + button is pressed, returns to its original position on the third press, and does not display any warning signals, indicate that the car's suspension system may be responsible for these characteristics? In addition, it should be noted that the act of reducing the air pressure in the tyres has effectively altered the characteristics of the ride to a satisfactory extent. I have come across several theories indicating that the accumulators may be responsible for the harshness experienced during a ride, but only when one or more of the aforementioned symptoms are present with the complaint. A seasoned mechanic suggested that the issue may perhaps lie in the pulse dampeners. Similarly, I have come across accounts of individuals who replaced the accumulators but saw no difference, particularly when they did not have any additional symptoms. The automatic reaction to replace the accumulators on an ABC2 automobile may not always be accurate. If a person has a hard ride with a P30, the final resort is to remove and test the components, since there are no other methods available. AMG and another P30 owner both confirmed that, based on my description, the vehicle was in satisfactory condition in answer to my inquiry. The automobile was designed for track use and not suitable for uneven surfaces. Are you aware that it uses distinct struts? Regrettably, despite its beauty and sturdiness, this exquisite vehicle was not suitable for the deteriorating condition of the outdated road network. I am uncertain of your location in Texas, but having lived in both Austin and Houston, I can confidently state that both relatively modern cities possess roads that would impress any automobile. Optimal.

After attempting several difficult, intricate, and sophisticated approaches without success, I decided to take a straightforward approach: I deflated the tyres. Prior to proceeding, I spoke with Michelin on the specific tolerances for the Pilot Super Sports. They directed me to the placard on the vehicle, which indicated that the recommended tyre pressure is 35psi for the front tyres and 36psi for the rear tyres. However, they mistakenly said that the correct tyre pressures are 36psi for the front tyres and 38psi for the rear tyres. Based on their inaccurate quotation, I reduced the tyre pressure to 90% of the recommended inflation level, namely 32 PSI in the front tyres and 34 PSI in the rear tyres. The change was significant: the firmness remained, but the issue of skipping across uneven ground was resolved. Based on my study, it has been determined that the Mercedes TPMS (Tyre Pressure Monitoring System) has a tolerance of 25% deflation before the warning light is activated. Can someone verify this? Thus far, the situation is satisfactory. I acknowledge that there may be drawbacks in terms of gas economy and uneven wear, but if someone is concerned about the overall expenses, this automobile is not suitable for them. Although there may be a little decrease in handling performance, it still outperforms the majority of vehicles, with just a few exceptions, including the standard SL55. Hopefully, the severity of the probable pothole blowout condition will not worsen. The merchant exhibited amiable behaviour, although lacked knowledge or understanding. They manoeuvred the vehicle throughout nearby respectable roads and proclaimed it flawless. For those who are inquisitive (and want to verify their own chassis / VIN #), it should be noted that the P30 has distinct struts for the front and rear, which are regulated by the same ABC Module (potential programming disparities remain unknown). If someone has knowledge about the specific programming differences of the module, do provide the information. Thank you to all who shared their knowledge generously. I appreciate all of your views and suggestions. Take care.

Expressing gratitude!

Do the 19-inch rims on your vehicle indicate that it has a P30 build? My 2003 car, which was neither a P30 or F1 model, had 18-inch wheels and provided a smooth ride on uneven terrain. What is the year of manufacture of your car? What was the reason for replacing the accumulators?

I will do a search for it. Thank you.

I agree with your adherence to Occam's razor principle. I keep the pressure at the lowest level that is advised. The 19" rims on my '03 vehicle are equipped with low profile tyres, which distinguishes them from other models. However, I often had tyre blowouts on the front wheels of the '03 model, although I have not seen this issue with the '07 model on the same routes. Based on my experience, the system is more relevant. I would appreciate input from P30 owners about the initial ride quality and the probability of the issue being related to the ABC computer, the accumulators, or any other factor that I may not have taken into account.

I have owned two SL55s. My first car was a 2003 model, which had all the associated problems. I have just acquired a pre-owned 2007 P30 vehicle with a mileage of 72,000. However, the condition of the roads in New York is severely affecting the comfort of my trip. The rear of the vehicle exhibits lateral movement when encountering bumps when turning, and it provides a rough ride on uneven roads while travelling in a straight line. While the 2003 model had a driving experience similar to that of a touring car, the 2007 model feels excessively rough and is not suitable for any track that is not in immaculate condition. Is this a typical occurrence for SL55 P30 owners? The automobile is in excellent condition. Was it a mistake to purchase a P30 with the intention of using it as a "track car"? Is it possible to adjust the car's responsiveness to a gentler setting using Star? If not, would it be feasible to purchase an ABC computer from eBay at a lower cost and replace it, with the intention of changing it back for the future owner? Alternatively, are the rear struts in a P30 changed in a way that would need reprogramming the newly acquired (used) unit? When discussing the suspension of ABC, it is often recommended to replace the accumulators. The automobile has never shown any warning lights, never experienced any decrease in performance, and reacts correctly to the raise / lower button. Therefore, I am reluctant to invest a significant amount of money just to discover that the car was operating within the specified parameters. Seeking input from P30 owners or technicians with expertise with the P30 system, particularly those who have experience reprogramming or swapping the ABC computer or adjusting the ride quality using STAR. Detailed instructions are requested.

It seems that the auxiliary battery in question belongs to the R231 model, whereas the user said that they had the R230 model with a larger auxiliary battery intended for consumer use.

😅

April Fools' Day occurred one month ago, however it was rather amusing.

Have you attempted to do a compression test on each cylinder by removing the spark plug from each one individually? It is possible that a valve is not properly closing.

I am uncertain about the mileage that your motor has accumulated, however it requires a service change due to its excessive mileage.

Have you inspected the PCV valve?

CRUCIAL PIECE OF INFORMATION! Utilise an air duster to remove debris from the space between the plenum and the charger. I removed my to discover Southend Seafront concealed. In order to complete the task, it was necessary to promptly use Henry, the vacuum cleaner, to suck up any debris by attaching a flat upholstery tool to the intake ports. Finally, a transparent silicone hose was taped to the end of the vacuum to thoroughly clean the ports by applying carb cleaner and extracting any remaining residue. Due to the adhesive nature of grit, vacuuming alone is insufficient to completely remove it, especially when it is mixed with oil residues. Ebay offers a wide range of endoscopes that may be connected to your smartphone to examine the condition of objects. While it may be difficult to completely prevent dirt from accumulating in that area in reality, you may mitigate this issue by first blowing out as much dirt as possible and ensuring that a hoover is readily available to facilitate the cleaning process. I cannot provide an assessment of the safety of using a vacuum to suction carb cleaning and its vapours. However, if you want to go with this task, it is imperative that your assistance securely holds the vacuum and maintains a considerable distance from you. Additionally, it may be advisable to use ear protection. In the event of an explosion, helpers often possess a safety mechanism that prompts them to quickly retreat and extinguish themselves with water, allowing you to continue with the engine-related tasks. The pipe has been successfully repositioned. In summary, if you have recently replaced your rocker covers and are experiencing issues such as poor idle, deceleration misfires and check engine lights, it is advisable to inspect the purge valve pipe. This pipe is often dislodged from its seat when moving the purge line bracket away from the rocker cover. It is important to note that the pipe is difficult to detect without removing the plenum, and repositioning it can be challenging without a clear view of the task.

Following the replacement of the rocker cover gaskets on my W211 E55, the car operated well for a week. However, after extended periods of driving, the vehicle began to experience jolting during deceleration, difficult downshifts, the illumination of the check engine light, and an uneven idle. While driving on the motorway was OK, the issues became apparent while encountering frequent stops and starts in traffic. This closely resembles a frequent occurrence known as a "hiccup" in the 55 AMG model, which is often reported after switching to a bigger throttle body. In this scenario, the symptoms exhibit similarities but might arise from several origins, with the common factor being discrepancies between estimated and real air intake charges. The system is MAP-based on the 55's, meaning it does not use an airflow metre. Instead, it relies on a Manifold pressure sensor. The ECU matches this sensor's readings with the throttle position to determine the level of vacuum or boost and hence estimate the engine load. From an electronics perspective, engine "load" refers to the quantity of air that the engine is taking in. For instance, when the throttle is fully open, the engine may be drawing in a large amount of air with low vacuum or even experiencing positive pressure or boost. Conversely, when the throttle is closed, the engine creates a high vacuum as it pulls against the closed throttle, resulting in a "throttled" effect. The MAP sensor monitors the variation in air volume inside the engine, allowing for Wide Open Throttle to be achieved both at idle and at the redline, but with varying levels of air intake. Now, let's return to the matters at hand. The following are the categories of codes that may indicate an air leak or hiccup: Disregard P2027, which is clearly identified as the IC auxiliary pump. I will monitor it closely to see if it reoccurs. In any case, I have already ordered a Bosch 010 pump. The probable codes that may be seen are P2007 - 008 B28, indicating an improbable signal from the pressure sensor. The load limit is now active with the code P1999, indicating a duration of 20 days and 4 hours. P202B - Idle speed control implausible - Electrical malfunction caused by a low-resistance connection that allows a current to flow via an unintended path, bypassing the normal circuit. P20A2 - Idle speed control is not believable. - Inspect the system for any unmeasured air The B28 Pressure sensor, also known as the MAP sensor, is located on the left side of the rear of the supercharger when facing the engine from the front of the automobile. Despite using an endoscope to explore, I was unable to get even a brief view of it. Fortunately, these occurrences are few, so there is no need for you to consider making any alterations. The code P202B perplexed me for some time. The term "short circuit" is an inadequate or incorrect description since there is no idle speed controller present. Instead, the idle is controlled by the throttle. Disregard the presence of a short or open circuit in an M113K. Instead, interpret it as a deficiency in idle control. The significance of P20D4 has been previously discussed, and I am certain that it may be interpreted literally as a power limitation in the form of a limp mode, often achieved by not engaging the 'charger clutch. Earlier, I received a gearbox code indicating a severe downshift while the engine was experiencing rough idling and the vehicle was bouncing on the road, as the automatic gearbox system struggled to maintain stability. If you encounter a situation of similar kind, refrain from panicking immediately. Upon studying the analogous "hiccup" problem, it becomes evident that it exhibits similar patterns. Specifically, the driving experience is seamless when the engine is cold and there are no issues on the highways. However, after around thirty minutes of driving, releasing the throttle might result in misfires, unstable idling, and ultimately trigger the check engine light. In my situation, the issue began 4-5 days after replacing the breather and rocker covers. This timing was too significant to attribute it to other potential problems like a faulty MAP sensor or throttle. There have been reports of them rectifying problems with other individuals' vehicles, but there is strong suspicion of an airleak. The root reason in my situation was the evap/purge valve pipe, which is likely to be a common problem after a rocker cover replacement. The purge line, which is used to release fuel tank vapour pressure, is secured by a bracket attached to the rearmost bolt of the rocker cover. Frequently disconnecting the pipe may be achieved by removing this bolt and pulling the line out of the way. The solution is rather simple; it only has to be returned to its original location. To get access, it is necessary to remove the plenum of the "Surge tank". This may be done by unscrewing the approximately seven torx screws located on the top. Additionally, there is one screw in the back portion of the "round" pipe.

If the issue was not there before to the seal replacement and if it pertains to the om642 engine, it is likely that your technician has not reinstalled a component correctly, maybe an electrical plug. Conducting a code reading will provide valuable information to identify the specific problem.