paulh2602601

Ha! The battery is overheating. I subjected myself to the act of burning in order to loosen the negative terminal.

The automobile completed its charging process 30 minutes ago.

Ah! The battery is overheating. I subjected myself to the act of burning in order to loosen the negative terminal.

Completed. No alterations.... Everything remains unchanged. Totally lifeless!

Is there someone available to assist me? The alarm on my 2021 Evoque was activated, causing the vehicle to become entirely immobilised. I am unable to both open and shut it. Despite using the manual key to enter, the automobile remains completely unresponsive. The symptom is identical to that of a battery being deactivated. It is non-functional. The Incontrol app indicates that the alarm has been triggered and is now obstructed. The travel help department lacks the knowledge and ability to fix the issue. Is there anybody who has a resolution?

I own a MY2024 and have two questions about it. It seems that you are aware of the presence of an option in the menu for audio alerts about speed cameras, but it is currently malfunctioning. When will Mazda address the problem? My second inquiry is to the process of updating firmware. The year 2025 will include the inclusion of Amazon Alexa. Will the MY2024 model get an upgrade to include the integration of Alexa? Thank you in advance.

After disconnecting the purge valve switch, the trim levels decreased. How can I verify whether the valve is open while it is not receiving power?

The automobile is completely unmodified.

The injector was replaced with a different set, but it had no impact. The long-term fuel trim (LTFT) value remained in the negative range. Additionally, both mass airflow sensors (MAFs) have been replaced. Yesterday, I unplugged the evaporative emission (EVAP) switch while the vehicle was running, causing the fuel trims to decrease to around -7. I am unsure whether this is linked to my current issue. However, after reconnecting the EVAP switch, the fuel trims returned to -16. Is it feasible that an intake manifold leak is responsible for this?

Greetings, I am the proud owner of a 2012 C63 AMG. I am seeing negative LTFT values ranging from -16 to -18 at idle. Despite replacing both MAF sensors and installing new OEM air filters, the negative LTFT values persist. Do you have any recommendations for identifying the underlying cause of this issue, even though I have already replaced the MAFs and filters? Thank you.

Exercise caution while using these piggyback connections to ensure they are inserted in the right orientation.

Operates well on my Niro 4 vehicle registered in October.

Although my 116i Sport was equipped with a Champ II, I do not remember having the ability to access any engine sensors. The vehicle was equipped with 'sport' dials on the screen, however they were non-functional due to the ECU not transmitting speed and RPM data. There were no more gauges. The Champ II is equipped with a 6-pin display connection.

The outward design of the EQE/EQS does not bother me, especially as I have previously owned many SAAB 9000 combi coupés. An exemplary and functional design. Those automobiles have a large enough interior space to accommodate a small couch. I continue to have a sense of longing for SAAB. However, among all the EQEs available on the second-hand market, there are several options in my country. Unfortunately, none of them are equipped with the "Hyper Screen," which, in my opinion, should have been a standard feature for a vehicle in that price range. However, all of them had dashboards resembling the "IPad" layout, which I find aesthetically unappealing to the extent that I would not contemplate any of them. Why are the majority of electric vehicles developed in this manner? Are electric vehicles immune to issues caused by solar glare? Are EVs immune to issues such as unintentional impacts on the displays or inadvertent dropping of tiny objects beneath the display panels?

The module, a replacement component purchased from Ebay for £100, with part number 6520-9193841, functioned instantly upon installation. Replaced the cover by applying a continuous line of tigerseal adhesive around its perimeter.

Could you provide any advice on how to effectively purchase a high-quality replacement component from eBay? All of these components are second-hand items obtained from dismantlers. There is no assurance that the replacement will be operational, even if the advertisement claims that it has been tested and is in working condition. I attempted to install the replacement, but it did not function. However, how can I ascertain that the component itself is not the cause of the issue?

Visually, the two items seem to be indistinguishable, and the E70 component with the same part number is compatible. I believe these items are suitable, but I am hesitant to make a purchase without verification.

The E70 model also includes virtually similar components with part numbers 9193847 or 9134281. Are these parts compatible with one other?

The issue does not lie with the keys, since both the primary and backup keys have functioned well in the past but are now non-functional. Although I didn't get a photograph, the condition of the item was satisfactory overall. However, there were little instances of white corrosion present on the lower side and around some portions of the circuitry on the top. I used alcohol and a toothbrush to cleanse it, and the residue was effortlessly removed. It is useful to be aware that both part numbers are appropriate. Thank you for sharing. Additionally, there are additional possibilities available for the LCI part number on eBay.

Greetings, everyone. The key fob for my central locking system is malfunctioning. The central locking system works well when using the internal dash button, and the vehicle may also be locked using the valet key. The issue occurred last winter but subsequently resolved itself and remained problem-free throughout the year. During the winter season, there was a sudden drop in. This occurrence has persisted and there has been no natural improvement since then. I have perused written articles and seen visual content demonstrating the process of substituting the diversity antenna situated behind the rear boot spoiler. I uncovered the module and proceeded to extract and cleanse it. The item had little water damage, but it was not significant. I removed the dirt off this and reinstalled it onto the automobile. The previous attempt was unsuccessful. I conducted a voltage test on the connection pins, which consisted of 4 wires. Through several wire combinations, I saw the expected voltage levels of either 12V or 5V. The subsequent course of action involves replacing the module. However, the presence of voltage on the cables raises the question of whether this indicates the module is functioning properly or whether there may be a potential wiring problem, which is another plausible explanation. Additionally, should the plastic cover be completely sealed on both sides using Tiger Seal or a similar adhesive? Additionally, the component number installed on my vehicle is 6520-6934846. However, there seems to be a physically equivalent LCI model part with the part number 6520-9193841. Are these units interchangeable? Thank you.

Search the forum, since this question is often asked.

We appreciate your contribution. Do you own a P30? Do the observations that the vehicle maintains its height without sagging even after being stationary for weeks, remains level, uniformly adjusts the height of all wheels when the height + button is pressed, returns to its original position on the third press, and does not display any warning signals, indicate that the car's suspension system may be responsible for these characteristics? In addition, it should be noted that the act of reducing the air pressure in the tyres has effectively altered the characteristics of the ride to a satisfactory extent. I have come across several theories indicating that the accumulators may be responsible for the harshness experienced during a ride, but only when one or more of the aforementioned symptoms are present with the complaint. A seasoned mechanic suggested that the issue may perhaps lie in the pulse dampeners. Similarly, I have come across accounts of individuals who replaced the accumulators but saw no difference, particularly when they did not have any additional symptoms. The automatic reaction to replace the accumulators on an ABC2 automobile may not always be accurate. If a person has a hard ride with a P30, the final resort is to remove and test the components, since there are no other methods available. AMG and another P30 owner both confirmed that, based on my description, the vehicle was in satisfactory condition in answer to my inquiry. The automobile was designed for track use and not suitable for uneven surfaces. Are you aware that it uses distinct struts? Regrettably, despite its beauty and sturdiness, this exquisite vehicle was not suitable for the deteriorating condition of the outdated road network. I am uncertain of your location in Texas, but having lived in both Austin and Houston, I can confidently state that both relatively modern cities possess roads that would impress any automobile. Optimal.

After attempting several difficult, intricate, and sophisticated approaches without success, I decided to take a straightforward approach: I deflated the tyres. Prior to proceeding, I spoke with Michelin on the specific tolerances for the Pilot Super Sports. They directed me to the placard on the vehicle, which indicated that the recommended tyre pressure is 35psi for the front tyres and 36psi for the rear tyres. However, they mistakenly said that the correct tyre pressures are 36psi for the front tyres and 38psi for the rear tyres. Based on their inaccurate quotation, I reduced the tyre pressure to 90% of the recommended inflation level, namely 32 PSI in the front tyres and 34 PSI in the rear tyres. The change was significant: the firmness remained, but the issue of skipping across uneven ground was resolved. Based on my study, it has been determined that the Mercedes TPMS (Tyre Pressure Monitoring System) has a tolerance of 25% deflation before the warning light is activated. Can someone verify this? Thus far, the situation is satisfactory. I acknowledge that there may be drawbacks in terms of gas economy and uneven wear, but if someone is concerned about the overall expenses, this automobile is not suitable for them. Although there may be a little decrease in handling performance, it still outperforms the majority of vehicles, with just a few exceptions, including the standard SL55. Hopefully, the severity of the probable pothole blowout condition will not worsen. The merchant exhibited amiable behaviour, although lacked knowledge or understanding. They manoeuvred the vehicle throughout nearby respectable roads and proclaimed it flawless. For those who are inquisitive (and want to verify their own chassis / VIN #), it should be noted that the P30 has distinct struts for the front and rear, which are regulated by the same ABC Module (potential programming disparities remain unknown). If someone has knowledge about the specific programming differences of the module, do provide the information. Thank you to all who shared their knowledge generously. I appreciate all of your views and suggestions. Take care.

Expressing gratitude!

Do the 19-inch rims on your vehicle indicate that it has a P30 build? My 2003 car, which was neither a P30 or F1 model, had 18-inch wheels and provided a smooth ride on uneven terrain. What is the year of manufacture of your car? What was the reason for replacing the accumulators?