paulh2602601

Frankly, I am uncertain; during the years I have used my phone as the main key for my vehicle, I have never faced that situation. I like the concept of a backup and would prefer if Kia offered the credit card-sized key card option in the U.K. instead of necessitating the use of the bulky fob for a backup.

I would carry the physical key, but not the separate fob. I question if the metal key is intentionally distinct from the fob to enable the use of the phone instead.

Inquisitive inquiry... If you have configured your phone as a key and own the emergency physical key, presuming you are indifferent to the extra features it provides, is there any need to carry the bulky fob with you? I would like not to carry the huge fob if it were unnecessary. I saw in the handbook a mention of a credit card key, which I presume must be accessible somewhere globally. Enquire if it is feasible to get one locally. I believe it is too naive to assume that a readily accessible NFC tag might function as an ad hoc key. I used the phone as the primary key for my prior Tesla and carried the credit card key as a contingency.

Is it not possible for you to contact Fidelity and become an OE option for replacement? This would generate significant revenue for you, since the insurance company would consistently choose your services, resulting in substantial savings on repairs.

If the automobile is left in a condition that triggers alerts (such as being unlocked), it will deplete the battery. Unless the 12V battery was assessed for health rather than just voltage, it may have been compromised nonetheless.

What is Bimmerlink? is superior than Carly and requires a single payment. Additionally, BimmerCode requires a one-time payment for coding services.

Greatly appreciated

Thank you for the diagrams and advise; I will review them. Thank you once again.

9H2 No cessation or initiation

The mechanics did not specify the explanation for the issue; nonetheless, the engine exhibits an oil leak from the transmission side, while the alternator seems to be in pristine condition. Are there any reasons for the sporadic activation of the warning light while the battery continues to charge? Thank you for your response.

The battery warning light illuminated around two months ago in my Peugeot 5008 diesel 1.6 HDi; nevertheless, it disappeared the next morning. I undertook two lengthy journeys totalling around 500 miles thereafter, but nothing went wrong. Two weeks after the first battery warning, I received it again. Replaced the alternator at a nearby mechanic the next day. The battery failed to charge. After one month, I received a battery warning two days ago; nonetheless, the battery was charging at 14.33V without load and 13.3V with the lights and blower activated. The next morning, the warning had disappeared. What will be the rationale behind that? Recommendations welcomed Thank you.

Typically exceeds that amount. Inspect the distribution point for corrosion and measure the voltage at the junction of the large red cable and the negative terminal of the battery. Subsequently, repeat the measurement using the other lead cable connected to the chassis, ensuring that the voltage remains consistent.

Share an image of your configuration.

To my knowledge, all E90 models possess connections connected to the distribution board. Cables originate from transfer stations located directly in front of the battery.

Indeed, that is profoundly distressing news, and it likely came as a surprise. Our 'special' vehicles are really integral to the family. I wish for a favourable conclusion for you.

Any competent mapper; nevertheless, do thorough study, since not all mappers possess the same quality.

No, I do not believe it will, since the DPF pressure sensor is not detecting a limitation; it is indicating enough flow.

An somebody with more expertise in mapping and software may provide insight, but I believe that assertion is inaccurate; a software update restores oecus to their factory defaults. A map may not resolve the issue, but it seems peculiar; therefore, it requires thorough verification. If the mapping was conducted with the DPF disabled, the absence of the DPF will impact boost levels. Conversely, if it has reverted to factory specifications without a DPF, this will also have repercussions.

They said that it was mapped, but the DPF was installed. This has now been overhauled, and the software has been upgraded. Updating the program likely restores it to factory settings. I will get a competent mapper to examine it.

Did you use the service at Kia, and if yes, did you request a tire rotation, and is there an additional fee for this service? Thank you

Received same advice about the MOT at a somewhat loaded 65,000 miles. It is not possible to replace the rear bushes with OEM or Honda components; instead, one must purchase the rear subframe, which costs almost £2000.00. I can do the replacement of the front wishbone, but the rear subframe seems to be a significant challenge. I may retain it and risk that the evaluator has been too stringent or mitigate my losses. Not an auspicious appearance for a vehicle renowned for its excellent components and prolonged, trouble-free operation for long-term owners. Quotation from the MOT “Supervise and rectify if required (recommendations): Nearside front suspension arm pin or bushing is worn, although does not cause excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i)). Offside front suspension arm pin or bush is worn but does not cause excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i)) Nearside rear sub-frame pin or bushing is worn, however does not cause excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i)). Offside rear sub-frame pin or bushing is worn, yet does not cause excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i)).

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Remarkable, a decade! I had owned mine for six years and considered it a lengthy duration for retaining a vehicle.

Similar to the artificial exhaust sound produced by the electronic bulkhead "soundaktor," Audi included the "pops" into the original equipment ECU map's ignition settings. Most tuners often do not contain this as standard; thus, you will want a fresh map that incorporates the desired sounds.

If there is a persistent noise like a continuous whistling tone, it is possible that a vacuum line is experiencing a leak or a loose seal. I own the inline 6 engine, which is equipped with mild hybrid technology, and I do not perceive any noise while the engine is idling or when the air conditioner is turned off. If you have a plug-in hybrid, I am uncertain.