Ken_Lion

In Adelaide, where I buy my tires, the recommended pressure is 40 psi. Recently, I made the switch to nitrogen and have found that the runflats provide a smoother ride.

Someone had installed a sidelight bulb without the metal holder piece that fits in the black plug, which was the source of the issue. Someone used a regular bulb that didn't have the metal attachment. In other words, the problem has been solved. I now face a fresh challenge. The light bulb, without its metal cap, has dropped into the headlamp. It was obviously placed there to give the impression that a light bulb was within. Since I only recently purchased it. On Saturdays like today, I've been using YouTube to learn how to change a headlight bulb: I have to remove the little door from the wheel well. So let it all hang out. I can't because I have a disability.A light buildup in the headlight requires a £200 repair at the workshop.

It's a 2014 BMW 2 Series M Sport 220D, and hello.

It's such a strange defect, I've had bimmers for a long time and never encountered anything like it; I may have to take the car to the main dealer. Any suggestions are welcome.

I appreciate you pointing me in the correct direction, and I really hope you're right about this since it's driving me absolutely crazy. I promise to respond, Mate Many thanks

Howdy, Folks I need assistance identifying a problem, if anybody can. No matter how many BMWs I've owned over the years, I've never seen anything like this. When I turned the light switch to zero (off) on the automobile I bought in Ireland yesterday, the side lights did some strange things. Side lights are supposed to be off after setting to 0, but the OS light keeps on (slightly dimmed, but on) while the NS light (on the left) doesn't work, prompting a fault warning on the dashboard; however, when set to side lights only, both lights come on. There's obviously a problem, but I have no clue where it may have arisen. I'd much appreciate it if you could provide a hand. It's ridiculous, and I don't see why there's a warning when the dial is set to 0. Surely if there was a problem with the wiring, it would become apparent when I turned on the lights. However, when I switch to the side lights, they begin to illuminate.

I can't tell for sure that it isn't your injectors, but I don't think that's the case. gasoline injectors seldom "leak" or have other problems since current gasoline is so reinforced with chemicals and detergents. Like I stated earlier, the installation of the CAI and the rerouting/stretching of the wire seems like it produced an electrical short, which was caused by the torque from your engine tugging on the wiring harness.

That's great! Report back to us with your progress.

It took some time for the electrical integrity of the circuit to be compromised by the additional load on the wire. The OEM air filter and electrical connectors may be purchased at a low cost from a salvage yard.

It is suggested that the CAI be removed and the original intake reinstalled, and that the wire harness, which has likely been stretched as a result of the rerouting, be replaced or repaired.

My wife and I are thinking about getting a CX30. We recently took a test drive at Mazda North in Danvers, MA. I took a list of Consumer Reports' complaints with me. Jumpy suspension over bumps Information and entertainment system: small and tight interior When going about average speed, each gear has a small bump. Poor lane keeping Not reliable: adaptive cruise control Slow start from nothing Cheap head cover, sun visors, and door pockets claustrophobia = short side mirrors and a sharp angle between the windscreen pillars The centre panel hits the driver's right knee. When going backwards, the thick rear walls make it easier to see. Low door with no row opening makes it hard to get in and out. The parking brake is on by default, but it needs to be turned off before the car can move. Low revs make the engine sound rough and noisy. A long and scary list, to be sure. I should say that my most recent cars have been Subaru Waggons, and I now own a 10-year-old Prius and a 1-year-old Mazda CX5. We took the CX30 on many different roads to test it. My wife is 5'2" tall and I am 5'9". I agree with the following complaints (we didn't try #5 and #6):- #2, but it's now easier to learn how to drive the CX5. Maybe some people could agree with #3. Yes, the CX5 is much more open, but the XC30 doesn't feel crowded inside, and the way the front and side windows line up makes it feel like a racing car. Safer and more closed in, but not stifling. #1: You can feel the bumps and frost heaves, but I wouldn't call it "jumpy." My wife and I thought that #4, #7, #10, #11, #12, and #14 were all wrong. We wonder what Consumer Report is putting the CX30 up against. The time it took to go from 0 to 60 mph shows that it is not at all slow. It's easy to change gears. The sound of the engine is nice. Our right knees had about 2" of space between them and the centre desk. I'm 83 years old, and my wife isn't much younger. We both have arthritis, but getting in and out of the car was no trouble at all. #8 Maybe, since the materials on the CX5 are better, but with all the extras I want on my top-of-the-line CX5, it costs about $7,000 more. For the price, all of the products are fine. I like cars and have owned English sports cars, a Volvo P1800, and an old Bentley. I think the positive reviews in the online racing press are much more accurate.

I purchased a 17-inch Spacesaver spare tyre for my 2016 Mazda CX-5. Despite the fact that my vehicle had 19-inch tyres on it, the salesman assured me that this was OK. The issue was that the boot floor board had to have a polystyrene kit installed in order for the floor to be raised to fit it. This did not meet my expectations, therefore I made sure to always have a spare tyre in the trunk of my vehicle. My new vehicle is a Mazda CX5 2019 Sports Nav+184 Auto AWD, and I just got it today. I decided to keep the 17-inch wheel for the next model, which will come equipped with a Bose subwoofer in the trunk. According to the handbook, I should be able to unscrew the subwuffer fixing bolt, position the wheel in that location, then replace the subwuffer and tighten the bolt through it to secure both components. As I have not had the opportunity to give it a thorough examination, I would be grateful to hear the opinions of anybody who has attempted this.

An old advertisement, "I put a tiger in my tank," comes to mind. For a long time, BP '95' was my go-to gas brand, but then I discovered that Esso's gas is a few pennies cheaper across the block, so I switched.