Ken_Lion

There have been no difficulties with my vehicle, even having driven 103,000 km.

The colour black-red most likely indicates a malfunction in the brake light. The left-hand side tail lights will be coloured in shades of grey or black. Grey/red, often known as RHS (Right Hand Side),

I have not achieved a range over 25 miles with a complete recharge. That is the information shown when I start my automobile. Is there any action I can do to enhance the mileage and achieve the 30-mile range that others are achieving? Furthermore, I connect my vehicle to a power source located inside my garage, even though my automobile is positioned outdoors. Does not fit inside the dimensions of my garage. I am aware that temperature has an impact on the charging process. Is there any action I can do to provide assistance specifically during the winter season? Is it snowing? Is it safe to connect my battery pack to an outside power outlet, or would exposing it to harsh weather conditions be detrimental? I appreciate your assistance!

Please note that include the vehicle Vin number will considerably assist in processing any requests for component numbers. Even an expert like Codger, who is highly skilled in the complex field of EPC, would consider it less challenging. Thank you.

The offer seems to be advantageous

https://www.parkers.co.uk/mercedes-benz/amg-gt/roadster-2017/car-tax/ £570

Excellent video. It is advantageous to maintain a stationary camera position while demonstrating the procedure. Nevertheless, I would like to provide a few suggestions that will ensure that several settings remain identical, eliminating the need for re-entry after a battery replacement. The following method is used only at the MB authorised workshop, where I seek guidance and have my vehicle undergo its yearly maintenance. Please do not interpret this as a critique. A cordial remark. 1. Unseal the driver side window and maintain its bottom position. 2. Proceed to access the hood or baggage compartment housing the battery. Please ensure that all doors are closed. Secure the vehicle and relocate any key-less key at a considerable distance from it. 4. Allow the automobile to enter sleep-mode after a period of 30 minutes. In accordance with the video, proceed to replace the battery. Removing the driver side window is necessary in the event that the automobile loses the key code setting. This allows for manual opening of the door from the inside, enabling the key transponder to establish a connection with the ignition system. The operation is recommended, maybe due to previous "accidents" that occurred in Mercedes automobiles. While it may not be relevant to modern models, it is advisable to keep this information in mind. Furthermore, enabling the vehicle to enter sleep mode ensures that all window settings are preserved without requiring recalibration. Upon replacing the batteries in my C207, I proceeded to remove and check the bottom plate. During this process, I saw a significant accumulation of "vegetation" that had accumulated over time, obstructing the drainage. Upon the completion of the dirt removal process, it was seen that a bolt used for the lower plate was positioned just above one of the AC aluminium tubes. When reassembling the bottom plate after removing all the debris, it is necessary to use the bolt that is shorter.

After consulting Opie Oils, I have found that Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 costs £24.95 for 6 litres, which is little more over £4 per litre. In contrast, your local MB Dealer would charge you almost £11 per litre for the same product.

I am perplexed by the substantial cost of a third-year service, which amounts to £900. Previously, I had the belief that an A (A0) service just included an oil change. I just finished my fourth year of service on my R172 SLK 55AMG at an MB dealer for little over £700. The service comprised the following: 1. Oil and filter replacement (I consistently provide my own oil...significant savings per 9 litres of synthetic oil) The process of replacing spark plugs is a laborious one, requiring the use of eight plugs. 3. Replacement of brake fluid 4. MOT 5. The diff oil has been replaced. Could you please provide information on the cost of the first year of service, since the third year is expected to be almost equal?

Our automobiles do not have a torque converter. This was the case with the pre-facelift C63 till 2012, which had an outdated gearbox. For the same reason I chose to keep mine, I have two other vehicles that I desire: a black series and a 911 Turbo S. However, I am unable to afford either of them. Therefore, I have chosen to keep the C63 since it continues to bring me joy on a daily basis.

My automobile has been three years old since I purchased it two months ago, and I have maintained it. 1. The third service is rated as A0. If you use the Mercedes service online to locate the most favourable price nationwide, your dealer is expected to provide a matching price. In my case, the price was £700, and they have consistently matched all prices year. 2. The fluid change mostly affects the gearbox, seals, filters, and other components. 3. The issue will not be resolved, since it is a common occurrence. There is a recent update to the gearbox softwear that has been available for a few months. I made the upgrade on my own vehicle, and the only noticeable improvement was a faster gear change. 4. While some individuals may engage in this behaviour (fortunately, I do not), exacerbating the situation and maybe causing more complications. Yes, there is an update that requires several hours to complete. However, you will not see any noticeable changes. It is unclear what the upgrades were, but they displayed a progress bar throughout the installation process, which took a considerable amount of time. Additionally, other aspects such as voice commands were changed, which took an additional hour. 6. The only recommendation they had was that the discs and pads were becoming depleted and to return in a few months for replacements (to be fair, they have performed very well over a span of 3 years, considering my driving habits). To provide piece of mind, I recommend considering an extended warranty for the automobile before it reaches the age of 3 if you want to retain it. I made a payment of £1300 to Mercedes for a one-year warranty, which is identical to the guarantee provided for the first three years of the vehicle. If you want to extend this warranty with Mercedes, even for one day after it has been three years old, the payment will amount to £2100 for a duration of one year.

Is it more cost-effective to use a taxi? The tickets are priced at £27 apiece, which is about double the cost compared to my last visit.

Thank you so much,ENVIOclev . I appreciate it. The right manifold has been well cleaned and is in excellent condition. It was simpler to work on compared to the m47. Although the bathtub was not cleaned, I was able to tidy it up before Mrs. returned. Indeed, the EGR system, including the cooler and the piping connecting the EGR cooler to the intake manifold, was severely obstructed. However, thorough cleaning has been performed, resulting in total removal of the blockage. The intake manifold is now 96% clean, with no visible carbon residue. Nonetheless, there may still be a small amount of carbon residue in hard-to-reach areas. The cars have all been rebuilt and are now idling. The temperatures are all at the correct levels, and there are no fault codes detected so far. Additionally, the cars are driving and sounding substantially improved. In terms of driving, it was previously smooth overall, but now it has become very responsive right from the start. It just feels and drives even better. There are no trouble codes. The engine seems to be operating well so far, with improved air intake and a more prominent turbo effect. I accessed Ista and performed a reset on the Maf. Additionally, I installed a new dpf, although the description provided is not accurate. I also carried out DPF modifications for both components. I spoke prematurely as the 480 is now functioning again. I plan to do diagnostic tests, but I believe it just requires being driven and demanding a regeneration process. I will assess its condition after that. There is no rough idle in the vehicle, and I have been driving it for 30 minutes. However, after installing a new diesel particulate filter (DPF), the automobile began to experience hesitation in terms of idling and required resetting of the adaption. I will provide an update on my progress whenever I get more information. Furthermore, I have not yet addressed the ports, which have accumulated a significant amount of residue. The valves also exhibit some build-up. However, the work I have completed so far has already resulted in a substantial improvement. However, as soon as I get some free time and the weather is somewhat good, I will absolutely start working on it, perhaps in the near future. The only item I want is a crank turning tool, since the one I now own seems to have four torques based on my first observation. I would like to mention that the counter pressure readings of my exhaust have decreased. The idle has decreased from 75 to 33, while the maximum value is 35. The rotational speed decreased from 150 to 111. The speed was reduced from around 350 to 251. The maximum value is 200. We are making progress in the correct way.

I have not thoroughly inspected the boost hoses or vacuum for leaks yet, but I will do so. Currently, I do not see any visible or audible abnormalities. However, I would need assistance in revving the engine while I do the inspection. Regarding the cleaning of the ports I believe I can handle it, following the method provided by George Auster on YouTube. Once I get the necessary equipment, such as a hoover and brushes, I will attempt it. 1) I would want to inquire if it is possible to determine whether the valves are closed by seeing the intake ports. When manually rotating the engine, is it necessary to return the engine to its original position after cleaning the ports, or can I just reassemble everything and go without any specific adjustments? Thank you for addressing the issue of any dirt and debris entering the ports. It is preferable to have little to no unwanted substances, such as muck, coming into the ports.

I have considered this possibility as I have recently begun utilising Ista and familiarising myself with it. I have conducted tests and attempted to perform regenerations. It is possible that I may have selected an option indicating that the diesel particulate filter (DPF) needed to be replaced, but I did not complete the procedure to indicate that a new one was installed, even though it is actually the same DPF. Therefore, I will attempt this step before resorting to physically removing the DPF and manually cleaning it. Regarding the 480 code, I would have expected the diesel particulate filter (DPF) to have been programmed in during 2019. However, I am uncertain. Once I have completed the intake repair, I will attempt to address the issue. Thank you for the guidance, NevoBMW320i👍👍👍

Greetings, individuals. I have a question about the intake manifold of a 2012 E91 318d. Essentially, I purchased the vehicle in January of this year with a mileage of 151,000. The timing chain and clutch were just replaced the week I got it. When I inquired about the problem with the chain, the seller informed me that it was making noise. The automobile performs well and exhibits smoothness in general. However, there is a problem with the engine's idle after it has been running for 10 minutes and is warm. After diagnosing the issue using Ista software, I have identified fault codes 480 and sometimes 480A, which indicate a blockage or clogging in the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF). Plausibility of air mass to exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) ratio: 4862 Today, I received a 4D00 back pressure sensor. However, both the 4862 and 4D00 sensors indicate a negative response. While 480 always responds affirmatively, sometimes when deleting errors, they all disappear temporarily, but 480 always reappears after about 30 minutes. The Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) was replaced in 2019, however I suspect it is not an authentic BMW part. Furthermore, it has accumulated a mere 40,000 kilometres. Currently, I am aware that there may be additional factors preventing the regeneration of the diesel particulate filter (DPF). I am systematically addressing these concerns by cleaning various components of the automobile. The MAF sensor was detached and treated with electrical cleaner, while the air box and piping were thoroughly cleaned. Initiate adaptations reset. The DPF back pressure sensor has been removed and cleaned, and the pipe connecting it to the manifold was previously obstructed but has now been cleared. The EGR cooler was severely obstructed, so I took it out and thoroughly cleaned it. As a result, the diagnostic tool currently indicates that it is 99.1% free from blockages. Today, I removed the pipework connecting the EGR cooler to the intake manifold. I discovered that it was heavily coated with carbon residue. I proceeded to clean the intake pipes, EGR to intake pipe, throttle body and the plastic pipe that connects to the intercooler boost hose using appropriate cleaning fluids. I also used electrical cleaner on any sensors. After thorough cleaning, everything is now ready to be reinstalled. However, upon inspecting the intake manifold, I have decided to remove I am unable to clean the intake ports because I lack the necessary tools, such as an endoscope to check if the valves are closed. However, I wonder if it would be sufficient to clean only the intake manifold and leave the intake ports untouched until I can find someone to perform the task for me. If I see any conspicuous fragments in the ports that appear prone to dislodging, I will cautiously attempt to extract them. However, if possible, I would want to refrain from handling the ports due to my lack of expertise and appropriate equipment. 1) If I proceed with removing the intake manifold, which I now feel obligated to do, would I be in a satisfactory condition? 2) If anybody is aware of a location where I can have a walnut blast performed on the intake ports, it would be much appreciated if you could provide that information. 3) Is it a significant problem if carbon falls down the port? Thank you in advance, gentlemen. I am now addressing the necessary tasks that need to be completed owing to distance and other factors. Concerning the problem I am experiencing with my vehicle, namely the issue of a rough idle and error code 480, I suspect that the cause might be a faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, an exhaust back pressure sensor, or a clogged Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) that requires cleaning. Once I have completed the cleaning of the intake manifold and the replacement of the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, my next task will be to address the potential issues with the MAF sensor, exhaust back pressure sensor, or DPF. After completing the intake manifold and dpf filter cleaning, I will proceed to replace sensors if the problem persists. Once again, any assistance provided would be much appreciated.

Carbon and its properties.

What is your identity? 12 and upset? There is no justification for such. You said comparable vehicles, my mistake for not reading the whole text. I cannot make a direct comparison between the XC40 and CX60. The difference in weight and the less powerful electric motor alone do not justify the XC40 being considered a suitable option starting at about $50,000. The cx60 is a superb automobile for the price. However, Hidepon demonstrated on YouTube yesterday that there are also issues with batteries. Mazda is attempting to deny the switch within the warranty period. Comparing my cx60 to other vehicles is meaningless due to the significant difference in battery quality, resulting in varying range and consumption for internal combustion engine and electric models. This impacts all plug-in hybrid electric vehicles (PHEVs) and mild hybrid vehicles.

The XC60 starts at $69,000, while the top-tier CX60 is priced at roughly $55,000. MB is an other matter altogether and not a good value for the cost.

Your buddies have spent 30-40k more than you did, which is why they have a few more km on their CX60 than you have.

At a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius and a speed of 50 kilometres per hour, this device indicates a range of 94 km. No CX-60 model is capable of doing that on a single charge 🙂

I too experienced such a "rattling noise" in the engine compartment and suspected a loose connection of the exhaust. A marten had carefully placed stones in my engine area, causing them to rattle on the metal.

Is there a provision for this feature inside the Mazda Connect settings? Have you conducted an examination at that location? It is possible that the toggle switch is in the off position.

One of my closest acquaintances throughout high school own a Blue 75 Vega. We really enjoyed our experience in the vehicle. Subsequently seeing him after a considerable period of time, I inquired as to whether he retained possession of the aforementioned item, only to be disheartened by his negative response. According to the individual, they expressed a sentiment that they intended to retain possession of the automobile indefinitely. However, due to severe rusting, the car experienced structural failure, resulting in it splitting into two separate pieces. LoL