norbury.brook

You may find success with a dealer, since they often own a variety of keys to unlock lockers. Once removed, dispose of them in the garbage and install standard bolts.

No fresh developments exist. Most dealers possess less knowledge than individuals on specialised forums.

Only if sufficiently resurfaced to need a larger gasket. An large gasket on a stock component reduces the compression ratio. Utilising bigger or thinner head gaskets is a traditional technique among hot rodders to slightly adjust compression levels. Most resurfaces do not need a bigger head gasket unless there was significant warping initially. The company will only remove the necessary amount to restore the surface to its original state. Most need simply a few thousand. Your shop should inform you of the amount they removed, and then you may determine whether a larger gasket is necessary. The primary issue with standard rebuilds and the need for bigger gaskets is the space between the valves and pistons. A few thousand off the top will be inconsequential in that regard. BMW designates the oversized gasket as +0.300 large. In machining terminology, it is an excessive quantity of material to eliminate only to align the head. If they had to remove such a significant amount from the head, I would seek a replacement, since it indicates substantial abuse or improper handling during removal, such as failure to adhere to the correct torque pattern during installation or removal. Such extensive removal usually occurs when both the head and the block have been resurfaced.

Refer to my linked topic for the replacement of the core plug. Popped core plugs in that location on N12 vehicles is not an unusual occurrence. Failed head gaskets are uncommon, however possible.

I imported it from the UK. I am in Canada, and there are no sources available here either. It is a European phenomenon.

Install piston rings, replace valve seals, and lap the valves. Contemplate replacing the oil pump drive chain concurrently. The cost of doing this maintenance will not decrease, especially when the components are already disassembled, since these elements are crucial for a N12 to achieve a further 75,000 to 100,000 miles with little complications. BMW specified a low friction ring set and ultimately produced an unusual segmented oil control ring. It excessively bypasses oil, damaging valves, carbonising ports, and destroying catalytic converters. To ensure longevity, refine the bores and install a set of traditional three-piece rings. These engines operate at elevated temperatures. And I mean very hot. 105 degrees Celsius is the standard operating temperature. They do it for emissions and miles per gallon. However, it causes the valve seals to harden prematurely, necessitating their replacement everytime the engine is disassembled. The increased thermal output necessitates that your cooling system operates at full capacity consistently. Replace any accessible components of the cooling system. The ACC drive is unique and has its own complications. I replaced all components except the alternator pulley. WP, WP rubberised pulley, tensioner/jockey wheel, and belt. It is worthwhile since re-entering the engine area is quite cumbersome due to its confined space. At a minimum, secure that core plug inside the timing chain tunnel. The N12 is equipped with a timing chain rather of a belt. There are two Vano sprockets at the end of each camshaft. They must be replaced with the timing chain gear; otherwise, they will accelerate the wear of the new chain. Utilise only name brand components such as OEM, FAI, or Febi. The timing chain mechanism is inherently flawed; it is not advisable to economise by using inferior components.

The failure rate of the M272 is around 2%. The engine management light will illuminate to indicate a malfunction. "If it isn't broken, do not attempt to repair it."

Was the 2014 subframe compatible?

The 325d retained the M57N for a longer duration than the 330d. Until early 2010, if I recall correctly. An effective engine, if quite aged today.

Understood. Thank you, SD1too. I attempted to disconnect the device last night, as recommended by Dodpops, to see whether it would ameliorate the problem. However, the cold start issue persisted, although I speculate there may have been a marginal improvement, maybe a product of my wishful thinking. However, it still would not maintain idle without raising the RPMs to around 1200-1500. Should I have obtained a more conclusive outcome by disconnecting it and attempting a cold start? My gratitude extends to both of you.

Indeed, he enjoys it as well! He was utterly astonished. The W202 models are very robust. Front and side airbags are present, the air conditioning effectively clears the glass, and the A-pillars on the W202 are rather small, resulting in minimal blind spots. Additionally, it implies that he will experience my W202 C36, therefore increasing the likelihood of retaining it within the family in the future. Thus, not entirely altruistic motivations! He has just turned 16, therefore qualifying for junior AA membership (there is no RAC in New Zealand). However, I do not believe they provide a solution to rectifying this flaw.

I will attempt later and return to you. Thank you, friend.

Greetings, everyone. I apologise if this topic has been already addressed: I just purchased a 1998 W202 C200 (m111 engine) for my son as his first automobile for his birthday, aiming to instill brand loyalty early, so he would not sell my old Mercedes after my passing. During cold start, it operates very unevenly and fails to maintain idle. It is necessary to manipulate the throttle to achieve approximately 1500 rpm to maintain operation until the engine temperature reaches around 60 degrees Celsius, at which point it operates smoothly. However, at maximum throttle during kickdown to first gear on the open road, it exhibits roughness and intermittent clearing, contingent upon the precise throttle position within the 75-100% range (ideally, he will remain unaware of this full throttle issue and will not reach that state). However, I saw this during the test drive while inspecting it, which led me to consider the throttle body potentiometer or a related component. I am uncertain if this is related to the cold start warm-up defect mentioned before, but this is the issue I am more concerned about resolving before I hand it over to him. It is a New Zealand new specification vehicle, hence it will possess the same emissions equipment as a UK new model, since I have seen that they generally share the same specifications. Best wishes, and I hope the weather is beginning to improve in Britain. Thank you.

Is the sound scarcely audible? Possibly referring to the lower ball joints?

Did my lack of consideration result in the impossibility of removing them entirely?

Does anybody own the knowledge on how to detach the headrests located in the third row? The obstruction of visibility from the rear is severe.

We have a high-quality pre-owned item available for purchase for a price of $250. Sincerely

Thank you for your suggestion. Do you think using penetrating oil from behind may be effective?

Greetings, everyone. I am attempting to repair the corroded and unsightly fender liner bolts on my 2008 Audi R8. However, I am encountering difficulties in both removing the old bolts and properly fastening the new ones in their place. Is there a prescribed or particular method I should be using to do this task? Attempting to extract the corroded object, it continues to rotate. I am unable to fully insert the top bolt as it consistently fails to thread completely. Assistance would be much appreciated. Consistently the simple matters.... haha. There seems to be a fastener located between the painted body panel and the fender.

The probable cause is a defective battery.

Indeed, the gearbox cooler will function as a'saddle' cooler, specifically operating as an integral component of the primary engine cooling radiator. The presence or absence of a thermostat in the system is uncertain, since my knowledge of your car/model is insufficient to determine. I am inquiring if there is an issue or whether your oil level is little depleted. In a general sense, the air-to-fuel (ATF) transfer occurs from the torque converter, which serves as its primary heat input, to the cooler. When a directive is sent for the gearbox to perform a certain action, such as transitioning from N to D, oil is extracted from the pressure circuit (which supplies power to the torque converter) in order to facilitate the selection of gears. If the flow to the cooler is hindered, it might result in a decrease in pressure (or total deprivation), leading to the occurrence of noise in the exterior piping to and from, or inside, the cooler. It should be noted that the aforementioned statement is a generalisation and the configuration of your gearbox may vary. However, I would first assess the fluid level. Perhaps focusing on the cooler and listening to its sound might provide further information. When assessing the fluid level, it is important to observe for any signs of excessive foaming in the oil. Noise may arise due to air entrainment, which occurs when air enters the suction line between the oil pan and the pump. It is unlikely that it would hinder the working of the torque converter, but it is not impossible. However, if this occurs, it may be unnoticed as most torque converters are operated with the clutch locked. If it does occur, it should be addressed promptly, which is a task that any skilled garage could do.

Is it the location of the trans cooler?

Based on my previous post, I typically only replace the malfunctioning glow plug. In your case, since you have already replaced the relay and the light is still on, you will need a multimeter to measure the power going into each glow plug. To do this, connect one lead of the multimeter to the engine's ground and the other lead to the power source of the glow plug. The reading should be less than 6 ohms. It is possible that one of the new plugs has failed.

Based on the information provided, I recommend purchasing a relay. Although you have already replaced all the glow plugs, it would have been sufficient to just replace the broken one. Additionally, I suggest checking the charging rate of the battery and the battery itself, independent of the glow plug light. The A class engine is rather small and should start immediately.

I had a problem where the engine would start but then promptly shut off. Initially suspected the crank sensor, replaced it, but did not see any improvement. Battery replaced successfully. I believe that the decrease in voltage after the start-up led to the ECU experiencing a brown-out and resetting. It is possible that the battery is experiencing sporadic internal contact issues or is beginning to deteriorate.