stevenkeyte

Thanks for the insight. I have thoroughly explored YouTube in the past, but I was unable to locate any videos that explicitly showcased my car model or configuration. If you have encountered one, would you be so kind as to share it with me? I may have overlooked one or failed to search in the appropriate locations. Salutations

As a first-time Mercedes owner, I need guidance. I recently purchased a 2016 (66 Plate) Mercedes CLA 220D Shooting Brake approximately 2 to 2.5 months ago, and I am currently experiencing difficulties with clearing my windscreen. While activating the screenwash, the motor is audible, indicating it is functioning; nevertheless, the water pressure is insufficient, resulting in a mere trickle from the jets that fails to reach the windscreen. When the washer reservoir is full, I must depress the washer button for around 20 seconds for water to begin dispensing. Subsequently, if I rapidly push the button, I can get modest amounts of fluid on the windscreen; however, this technique becomes ineffective once the washer fluid level decreases to about three-quarters full. There looks to be 1 pip that connects and the water travels through to all of the jets, and so I've taken this off to test if the pressure is going through before the jets, and regrettably, again it's still a trickle. The washer bottle is positioned in an inconvenient location, making it inaccessible for me without a ramp for inspection. However, I attempted to access it from beneath and confirmed that there are no leaks, among other checks. I had read that they can become obstructed, which indeed occurred with an old vehicle of mine; however, the reservoir was situated in a somewhat more accessible area for resolution. I have an extensive journey to the Lake District in a few weeks, and I am concerned about my ability to adequately clear the windscreen. Does anyone possess understanding or experience with the potential issue, as I want to avoid making assumptions? Happy to send a video or two if needs be (if the community accepts them), or I can submit it to Google drive. Thank you, everyone!

Indeed, you did; I own my error. I have elevated my C55 through the differential once or twice, however it is somewhat cumbersome since I must first remove the metal heat sink. Elevate the vehicle on one side, remove the heat sink, lower the vehicle, position the jack beneath the differential, and repeat the process. You comprehend the concept. Severe pain.

Excellent composition; nonetheless, please let me to provide one more point. When replenishing differential fluid, always prioritise loosening the filler cap first.

I actually completed a purchase with them it was a 2022 Mercedes A200 AMG Line and I had exactly the same concerns about sending a transfer. Ballykeel Logistics sent over the payment invoice, v5, and confirmation the funds go into a segregated client account. The money doesn’t get released to their sales division until you confirm acceptance within 14 days. I had it inspected within 48 hours. Everything checked out. Only then did I confirm I was keeping it.

Acceptable. I maintain my Excel fuel record to forecast and monitor service.

I was unaware that the service indicator functioned on the JD Gen Ceed in the UK. I have had my Proceed for seven years without receiving any alerts or requiring a reset. It is possible that we own distinct software.

Failure of the Crankshaft Position Sensor may manifest these symptoms.

As previously said, anticipate incurring costs if you want coding capabilities. Unless you are referring about programming a battery-related device.

Similarly, my 2013 C Class exhibited some clumsiness when chilly when approaching intersections or roundabouts. It becomes sufficiently smooth when heated. The roughness during the low gear shift mostly vanished when sport mode was activated before to departure.

The CX 30 is hardly five months old, therefore I anticipate that the pads and related components remain in satisfactory condition. I see several brake and rust removal goods available.I guess they are not satisfactory? Thank you one again.

Greetings, I was unwell for many days and did not operate my CX 30. We had substantial rainfall. Upon cessation, I saw that all the brake discs of the vehicle were significantly corroded. I understand it is said that driving would remove it, nevertheless thus far, little has been eliminated.Are there any methods or products available for the removal of rust from brake discs? Thank you

We just saw a similar code on one of our children's SUV, which is not a Mercedes. Our son ordered a component from eBay, which was incompatible. He then attempted to purchase from Euro Car Parts, but it too would not fit. The dealer's price was a substantial £170, if I recall correctly, compared to £50 to £80. The automobile remained operable, but its use diminished in favour of another vehicle. Over the weekend, as @OneForTheRoad said, our son cleaned the valve, which is readily accessible on his vehicle. It has been 3 to 4 weeks, and the car is functioning at 100%. There was a black substance present, which is a recognised issue associated with his automobile model. Nonetheless, there may sometimes be an alternative issue contributing to the accumulation of filth, among other substances. Experiment and assess your progress.

Can it be mapped by anybody, or must it be the original remapper?

That is logical. If the vehicle's system continues to recognise the presence of a DPF that has been removed, would this not activate a diagnostic code or warning?

I enquired about this, and they said that the map would not have been refreshed. As that constitutes a fresh factory reset Would a remap repair revision be issued?

I own a 2008 BMW 520d N47, to my knowledge. Recently, I have spent in excess of £4,500 on a range of repairs, including: Substituting gaskets Replacing the gearbox fluid Modifying ECU modules Substituting the timing chain Draining the DPF (I have been advised that it was remapped and the DPF was removed, resulting in blockage, therefore necessitating the draining) The vehicle exhibits an issue between 1500 and 2000 RPM, characterised by fluctuating revolutions and hesitation during acceleration. I have conducted mechanical testing on all components, including: Turbocharger Turbo actuator Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Throttle body and all vacuum lines, which underwent smoke testing. Intercooler Notwithstanding all these examinations, the problem endures and stays unaddressed. The garage has now indicated that it must be an electrical problem. Any recommendations, please?

Acquire it and relish.

I contacted Kia and they expressed their want to reserve the vehicle. However, it will need a portion of my time, therefore I have not yet made a reservation. Nevertheless, for the last week, I did not have any problems with my alarm. I will patiently observe and analyse to see if I can identify any recurring pattern associated with this issue.

I have previously attempted to deactivate the sophisticated anti-theft alarm. However, it automatically activates when the vehicle is started again. There doesn't seem to be any correlation with a battery issue, since the problem occurred immediately after a 100-mile journey, while the vehicle was stationary in a level driveway. Kia Connect notifies the user on their phone when the alarm is activated. However, the notification only appears after the alarm has already gone off and stopped. I believed it would be wise to open the message immediately upon the activation of the alert.

The automobile alarm was activated many times without any apparent cause. There are two sorts of alarms: a standard alarm that activates when someone attempts to open a door without keys, and a "anti-theft" alarm that detects interior movement while the vehicle is locked. I am uncertain about which one is being activated. There is a feature in the car settings that allows you to deactivate the anti-theft alarm. However, it automatically activates again when the engine is started again. Prior to contacting Kia, do you have any recommendations or has anybody encountered this situation previously?

There seem to be some unexplainable noises emanating from the engine compartment of your A5. This low-speed noise, characterised by a quiet cutting and bearing-like sound, may be extremely remarkable. So far, you have completed the installation of the turbocharger, DPF, and suspension, but there are no further modifications yet, correct? If your gearbox operates smoothly overall without any abrupt movements, it is possible that a little elusive bearing is causing the issues. Given that your automobile has travelled 194,000 km, it is likely that the gearbox bearing has been worn due to the amount of use it has had.

Greetings, I am seeking viable alternatives to soldering in order to access a positive wire. This is intended for audio applications. I have obtained the primary power wire for the head unit command. I used posi-lock, but, the connection seems to be rather uncertain for an unknown reason. Fortunately, I have a couple crimp splice locks readily available. Do you have any recommendations?

I was really fortunate to come across them and get a brand new, fully functional fuel metering head specifically designed for an M104 300-24 engine. The amount is around $200. Just last week, I received a gasoline hose from Pelican Parts at my doorstep in just 4 days, and it cost me just half the price compared to other suppliers in Europe. Exceptional.

I have never had a vehicle with self-parking capabilities, but I am very certain that even if I did, I would not place my confidence in it. Even if I wasn't the one driving, I would still be legally responsible if the vehicle caused damage to anything.....I would like to intentionally cause the accident myself! Furthermore, judging by my acquaintance's vehicle, it is remarkably sluggish.....insufficiently fast to navigate a congested road while inconveniencing other motorists who must wait for it to autonomously find a parking spot.