Doncaster34

They are 19 x 7.5 J45 KA036.

Greetings, everyone! New Owner of CX90 GSL with 19-inch wheels. - The majority of Mazda rims are suitable; nevertheless, weight is a concern. There is a set of 19" CX5 rims from the same model year for sale, but I am unable to locate the weight capacities elsewhere. Do you anticipate any problems?

Which application do you use to get this information?

The battery was assessed after a 5-minute operation and is displaying a voltage of 14.1 volts. After following Ted's excellent advice, I examined the boot and glovebox lights and confirmed that both lights are turned off. I will attempt to connect a voltmeter in series to see whether there is any current consumption while all devices are turned off. Stay tuned for updates.

Excellent idea!

I will do a voltage assessment as recommended and determine the measurement. The battery is functioning well since it is just 3 weeks old. To troubleshoot the issue, I will remove the bulb from the glovebox light to eliminate it as a potential cause.

I believe I am experiencing a malfunction with the Body Control Module (BCM) on my 2003 SL350. After replacing the batteries for the utilities, the central locking system malfunctioned after a mere 2 weeks, necessitating the use of the emergency key to open the boot. The newly installed battery initially displayed a voltage of 12.1 volts. However, after recharging it, the battery returned to its normal functioning state. The engine start battery is functioning properly without any issues. It seems to be a persistent issue with battery drainage or a malfunctioning BCM preventing the battery from charging. I have had a vehicle for a duration of 14 years without experiencing any issues related to battery depletion. Therefore, I assume that the Body Control Module (BCM) may be the cause of this problem. Can anybody provide advice or guidance on this matter? 1) Where is the BCM (Body Control Module) situated in the trunk and how can I access it? 2) How can I do a test for it? 3) It seems that fresh ones are no longer accessible. Is this statement accurate or does anybody possess knowledge of a reliable supplier? 4) Is there a service available for testing and rebuilding these units in case a new one is not available? 5) Any other recommendations for a solution would be welcomed. Using camper van split charge units as a substitute is an option that some individuals have considered, but it should only be considered as a last resort. Thank you.

Another individual who abandoned the physical version of the document many years ago. Primarily, I am hesitant to remove it from the plastic wallet it is in, because of its current condition. I acquired it in the mid-1970s.

I am interested to know whether you have resolved the issue with this noise problem. Last year, I had a similar issue and was assured that everything was OK. However, since the problem seemed familiar, I made the decision to replace the anti-roll bar links and tighten them securely. Now it is quite smooth. I also had a similar issue on another 211 a couple of years ago, namely with the front suspension top mount. The problem was with the ball joint on a triangular component made of steel or aluminium, rather than the larger U-shaped piece it attaches to.

It seems that Kia's implementation has been rather disorganised, which is not surprising.

Kia seems to have implemented a new feature that enables users to deactivate their keyless entry fob. However, Key has not officially acknowledged any modifications, and there is no reference to this in my Sportage guidebook. The exact date of introduction for this capability is uncertain, however, it has been confirmed to be functional on some recent versions of the EV6, XCeed, and 5th Generation Sportage (perhaps including the EV9 as well). This may be effective on other recently released models. I have included a description of the technique below, which is simple and easy to understand. However, as a precautionary measure, I continue to store my fobs in a Faraday box. I do not feel that this method offers protection against the recent robberies using 'Game Boy' devices. Secure the vehicle by using the door handle button. To activate the key fob, simultaneously press and hold the lock and unlock buttons. The car's indicators should flash once, followed by a brief delay, and then flash four times. The fob is now deactivated, which means that the vehicle cannot be unlocked using the door button. To get access to the automobile, one must press either the unlock or lock button on the key fob. After the fob is used to open the automobile, the keyless entry system becomes operational again. A YouTube video showcasing the procedure as explained by an owner of an EV6 is available. In addition, he states that the Kia Connect app allows you to remotely unlock and lock the car even without activating the key fobs. However, I have not been successful in reproducing this functionality on my own vehicle. I trust that this will be effective for you. If the solution is successful, please inform other members by writing the make and year of your car in the comments section below.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CDEFG-Sportage-Non-Slip-Anti-Slip-Accessories/dp/B0B9GLQN5Y/ref=sr_1_19?crid=24TQM22II15A3&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.9IL5F7M-MUwvOcrnUE3xoM9nUQ3JNEeFaSV1L50q-QkWiX1ic36qRcRIYuHywF5TE0dMveKpp5gUrM9jEiknH72jzjy1Qhfk_H8z077lgo8xm6K77txahIZgKyr4Gdgl-GyQNy83zRklTgekWnUi5Pcd0TzpINI5aH7DoRJI_0NJeLpnHCNBEw6gh8DOr6pBa_UHCPSvfTC2hdYnQemL8BUZy-apy1Xt_aylDGwTLSQ.82eWViaM-lJX9tz7fDWBSFN2Pw27DJJ0M3l-5RJwwqw&dib_tag=se&keywords=kia+accessories+uk&qid=1712651350&sprefix=kia+accessories,aps,499&sr=8-19&th=1

We provide a GTLS (HEV) set that provides an ideal fit and effectively eliminates any noise. It is advisable to examine it to see whether it is compatible with your model. There are other vendors offering them on Amazon, AliExpress, and Temu, allowing you to choose more affordable options.

It would be too simple to surrender. Arranged, task completed. Conclusion: The back pressure sensor that was initially purchased, which was an expensive "Original" sensor made in Germany, was found to be incorrect. It displayed a pressure reading that was approximately 400hpa higher than it should have been. It is possible that this sensor is either an absolute or relative sensor, as indicated in this document: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10158249-9999.pdf. However, it is worth noting that this sensor has the same part number A0051535028. I recently purchased the most inexpensive item I could find on eBay for 11 pounds. It successfully functioned and featured a Mercedes logo, indicating it was manufactured in China. As a result, I now have appropriate back pressure, although the boost pressure sensor is slightly beyond the desired range. However, I have already ordered another inexpensive replacement from eBay, which will arrive in a day's time, also priced at 11 pounds. I am pleased that everything is now resolved and the engine sounds pleasant and operates smoothly. This information may be beneficial to someone.

Today, when attempting to detach the sensors individually in real-time, I saw that removing the MAP and MAF sensors resulted in a decrease in back pressure. Consequently, I have placed an order for a new MAP sensor after seeing that the values it provides are over the acceptable pressure range.

Thank you for comprehending. Now, it is essential to complete the task since I have invested a significant amount of time and money. Until now, I have considered the possibility of a catalytic issue, but I remain unconvinced that this is the problem. The exhaust flow appears to be functioning well at idle, as I can feel it up to a distance of 1.5 metres. Additionally, I have attempted another forced regeneration using cataclean in the fuel and DPF/Catalytic cleaner foam inserted into the catalytic converter through the temperature sensor slot.The oil was replaced thereafter. Upon reevaluation, I found that the back pressure remained unchanged at approximately 1500mpa before and after regeneration. However, upon further investigation, I observed that the EGR valve was randomly opening and closing, causing the back pressure to fluctuate between 1400mpa and 1600mpa. As a result, I have discarded the hypothesis that the catalytic converter is obstructed. So, the question is: what might be the reason of elevated back pressure when another sensor is added to the system? It is possible that the back pressure sensor is faulty, despite being new. It seems to be very sensitive, since it is displaying a reading of 1500mpa instead of the expected 1000mpa. I have purchased an additional sensor, namely a more affordable Chinese one, in order to verify this.

I suspected that the catalytic converter was clogged, so I removed the catalytic converter from the diesel particulate filter (DPF). However, the pressure did not change. Then, I removed the bolts between the turbocharger and the catalytic converter, and the pressure in the exhaust system decreased as expected.

There has been no advancement in my current situation. I am contemplating the reason behind the rapid decrease in exhaust back pressure at about 2000 rpm. It might be due to the activation of the turbocharger or the engagement of the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system.

Currently, I am experiencing stress as the code has returned, but the vehicle is no longer entering limp mode. The specific code is 2641-008. I have previously replaced the rear exhaust sensor and also the MAF sensor as a precautionary measure. I kindly want assistance or suggestions, as I am on the verge of surrendering.

Replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor with a new, authentic one. The error code is no longer appearing, even during intense acceleration. However, sometimes I can still hear a high-pitched sound from the turbo between 3000 and 4000rpm.(perhaps a leakage of compressed air someplace). How can I perform a diagnostic test on the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor for this specific engine? Will the engine stop if I disconnect it while it is running? When I detach my device, the engine noise changes somewhat but does not cease.

Update: I have successfully performed a forced diesel particulate filter (DPF) renewal using xentry. Initially, there was a significant amount of smoke for the first 2 minutes, but it cleared up thereafter until the regeneration process was completed, which took around 20 minutes. The temperature throughout the regeneration process reached roughly 630 degrees. The smoke dissipated. I took the van for a test drive and drove it for approximately 15 minutes. During the drive, the coolant temperature increased to around 70 degrees Celsius and there was no smoke. However, when I accelerated and shifted from 3rd to 4th gear, I heard a sound resembling a turbo or boost whining, and then the vehicle went into limp mode. I drove back to the starting point and checked for error codes, which revealed the presence of code 2089-008 b18. This code indicates a malfunction in the exhaust back pressure sensor, which is a plausible explanation for the issue.

Greetings, everyone. After doing maintenance on my Vito V6 with the OM642 engine (equipped with a diesel particulate filter), I am now experiencing an abundance of smoke.Prior to the issue, my work routine was ordinary with no smoke. This allows me to rule out injector failure and a malfunctioning EGR cooler, since the coolant level remains consistent and clean. Completed tasks: - seals for the oil cooler - The swirl flaps were removed since they were trapped in the open position with a resistor modification prior to the work. All seals were replaced during the maintenance, and both the fuel and air filters were also replaced. - The seals on the injectors have been replaced. - A new return pipe has been installed since the previous one was leaking significantly on two injectors, causing a diesel leak. Additionally, the injector chamber was found to be filled with diesel. During a lengthy journey, I observed a warning on the dashboard indicating that the oil level was too high. In response, I replaced the PCV valve and breather. Following this maintenance, I decided to change the oil. To do so, I added a flush and ran the engine for approximately 10 minutes. At this point, there was no smoke present. However, it is possible that I made an error during the subsequent step, which involved changing the oil and filter. I opted for Fuchs Titan GT1 5w40, a brand I have not previously used, but is compatible with Mercedes-Benz vehicles.- I inadvertently initiated a DPF regeneration process while using Xentry, resulting in the release of smoke. I now see that this action is likely responsible for 99% of the issue. Consequently, the regeneration process now attempts to complete every time I start the vehicle. Is there a method to halt the process of regeneration before it is fully completed?Is there any way to resolve the issue of not being able to smoke for 20 minutes in my location, such as doing an ECU reset or trying other methods? Could there be another issue here? I appreciate any assistance you may provide in advance.

Did the engine come to an immediate halt? Are there any atypical sounds? If the engine is unable to rotate, I agree with biketeacherdave's assessment that the crankshaft is likely fractured.

The car was purchased from an authorised Kia dealership last week. Complete service records from an authorised dealer. Can the car's tendency to deviate be attributed to a loss of steering control? In the past, I have seen an occurrence of electric power steering failure. The only symptom observed was a significant increase in the effort required to steer, without any accompanying deviation in the steering direction. The act of tugging is the aspect that is most worrisome. Although it remains hazardous, I could endure the abrupt increase in steering effort. However, experiencing both an increase in effort and a tugging sensation is more difficult to take.