MDMH757

Is the pre-turbine sensor pipe the conduit that links to the exhaust back pressure sensor? Upon inspection, it appears to be clear. I also inspected the brakes, and they are in satisfactory condition.

My car has recently encountered a significant problem with excessive fuel use. I previously achieved a minimum of 450 miles on a half tank, but now I am only attaining approximately 300 miles at best, and I am uncertain as to the reason. The vehicle receives a full tank and undertakes a 300-mile motorway excursion weekly. I regularly undertake extended motorway drives at 70 mph for over three hours, so I doubt it could be the DPF, although I am not totally certain. I previously had an exhaust back pressure sensor problem that resulted in a powertrain fault on iDrive; however, after replacing the sensor, the vehicle no longer displays that fault. I have poured DPF cleaner to a full tank and executed another thorough drive on the freeway, but to no avail. I have recently undergone a significant service that has yielded no results. I consulted BimmerUtility, which indicates my soot levels are at 45.99g. I have observed this value decrease to 8g, but it occasionally spikes to the high teens or abruptly returns to approximately 45.99g. I previously had a 24C800 error, which was resolved by replacing the sensor. However, I am now facing a 25C800 error. Does this indicate that the DPF need replacement and is it the source of the problem?

The CX-60 suspension, an enduring advantage... Examine the many postings on the topic by using the forum's search engine.

I transitioned to the Pirelli WeatherActive Scorpions 8,000 miles ago; I previously had a PHEV PP. Appreciated the fresh tires. Disliked the Falkens, almost exhausted after 12,000 km. I was so impressed that when I purchased my new CX-90 Turbo S PP this week, I instructed them to install Pirelli tires on my new car and transfer the tires from the new vehicle to my trade-in. I am certain that my Pirelli tires, which have 8,000 miles on them, will surpass the longevity of the new OEM tires on my Turbo S. Although the new vehicle is equipped with Toyo tires instead of the inferior Falkens, I still like my Scorpions far more. I agree that the Michelin CC2s would be a commendable selection.

It seems to be water intrusion. Does the older 5 Series still include the large yellow grommet on the passenger side bulkhead?

It seems that you own the key and that the unlocking mechanism has been activated for some time. It is easily accomplished, and you would not be the first to do so. Pressing and holding the lock button while the windows are open will cause them to shut upon locking; conversely, holding the button while locked will result in the windows opening or closing.

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...same as mine....

The primary purpose of this feature is to accommodate very tight European parking spaces. It is often seen just in European automotive manufacturers that have not produced two variants. The manual variants withstand tiny impacts more well, thus I prefer them. I had one incidence and two in my prior Mazda when I struck the mirror on garbage cans while parking, resulting in the mirror folding inward.

Apologies, I am unable to assist. My device was functioning initially then ceased operation; however, it resumed when I performed that action.

A multitude of individuals evaluate the chargers available for purchase at Lidl and Aldi while they are currently in stock. I believe they are seasonal and hence not available on the shelves year-round. Additional members also endorse Maypole and Ring chargers, which should be available at Halfords, automotive parts retailers, or online. I really like CTEK, particularly the MXS 5.0, which can be purchased on Amazon. While not the most economical option, they are highly esteemed.

I would charge the batteries with a high-quality charger or conditioner for at least 24 hours, if feasible. It is the first element to eradicate. Numerous individuals prematurely change a battery, despite it being entirely functional.

Those phones were exceptional. Less complicated eras... The PS vehicles are rather impressive as well, particularly their engine.

I can just convey my experience with my S204. I changed both front sensors approximately 500 miles apart at around 50,000 miles and the NSF reluctor at approximately 60,000 miles. Reluctors are components of the hub bearing of the 204, necessitating their replacement.

Based on my observations, the failure of one ABS sensor often precedes the failure of another. Additionally, there are the reluctor rings.

Is it a relatively new vehicle that unlocks through proximity to your phone?

I am uncertain of your location, however the Mazda dealerships in my vicinity do not impose much higher fees for an oil change compared to local oil change establishments. For approximately $110, the dealership will perform an oil and filter change, inspect and replenish any necessary fluids, examine the air and cabin air filters, rotate the tires, and wash the vehicle. The local oil change establishments charge approximately $80 alone for the oil and filter replacement. Performing the oil and filter change independently would incur a cost of approximately $45 to $50; therefore, I find the dealership's pricing acceptable.

Greetings to all: I am new to the community, having recently acquired a CX70 Signature in Canada. My driver profile consistently defaults to guest on the main page. Do you have any recommendations to avert that?

Indeed, other things are involved; it is not solely the vehicle. The driver is also considered regarding accidents, claims, and points. The risk algorithm employed by insurers is substantial.

The lower door side skirts are not available in the online parts catalogue; it is advisable to visit the dealership. There are rocker panels located underneath that are affixed to the chassis as well. Most plastic components should include an engraved part number on the back side. The blue clips or rivets seen in your final image likely slip into the skirts and are then driven into the door panels. Consider acquiring fresh clips if they are not included. Refer to examples; the component may be incorrect.

Overexploited; just purchase it and forfeit at least fifty percent of your investment.

A single minor cable connects to the front end of the battery; however, there is none connecting to the board itself in my case. Regardless of whether the board is attached, there is no electricity in the cabin.

I removed the battery a few weeks ago to recharge it. Reinstalled with the apparatus positioned on top. Devoid of electrical power. No apparent authority to any entity. I wondered if I'd damaged the 'contraption' so re-checked today. In my particular vehicle, the piece seems to serve no use. I questioned if I had blown a main fuse; however, it seems that all fuses are located below the glovebox, and I am uncertain whether a 'main fuse' exists. The battery is functioning well. Do you have any recommendations?

This raises a question I have. Is the thicker gasket only provided if the head has been resurfaced? Are there situations in which a thicker gasket is necessary when the head has not been resurfaced?