MDMH757

🥲

...same as mine....

The primary purpose of this feature is to accommodate very tight European parking spaces. It is often seen just in European automotive manufacturers that have not produced two variants. The manual variants withstand tiny impacts more well, thus I prefer them. I had one incidence and two in my prior Mazda when I struck the mirror on garbage cans while parking, resulting in the mirror folding inward.

Apologies, I am unable to assist. My device was functioning initially then ceased operation; however, it resumed when I performed that action.

A multitude of individuals evaluate the chargers available for purchase at Lidl and Aldi while they are currently in stock. I believe they are seasonal and hence not available on the shelves year-round. Additional members also endorse Maypole and Ring chargers, which should be available at Halfords, automotive parts retailers, or online. I really like CTEK, particularly the MXS 5.0, which can be purchased on Amazon. While not the most economical option, they are highly esteemed.

I would charge the batteries with a high-quality charger or conditioner for at least 24 hours, if feasible. It is the first element to eradicate. Numerous individuals prematurely change a battery, despite it being entirely functional.

Those phones were exceptional. Less complicated eras... The PS vehicles are rather impressive as well, particularly their engine.

I can just convey my experience with my S204. I changed both front sensors approximately 500 miles apart at around 50,000 miles and the NSF reluctor at approximately 60,000 miles. Reluctors are components of the hub bearing of the 204, necessitating their replacement.

Based on my observations, the failure of one ABS sensor often precedes the failure of another. Additionally, there are the reluctor rings.

Is it a relatively new vehicle that unlocks through proximity to your phone?

I am uncertain of your location, however the Mazda dealerships in my vicinity do not impose much higher fees for an oil change compared to local oil change establishments. For approximately $110, the dealership will perform an oil and filter change, inspect and replenish any necessary fluids, examine the air and cabin air filters, rotate the tires, and wash the vehicle. The local oil change establishments charge approximately $80 alone for the oil and filter replacement. Performing the oil and filter change independently would incur a cost of approximately $45 to $50; therefore, I find the dealership's pricing acceptable.

Greetings to all: I am new to the community, having recently acquired a CX70 Signature in Canada. My driver profile consistently defaults to guest on the main page. Do you have any recommendations to avert that?

Indeed, other things are involved; it is not solely the vehicle. The driver is also considered regarding accidents, claims, and points. The risk algorithm employed by insurers is substantial.

The lower door side skirts are not available in the online parts catalogue; it is advisable to visit the dealership. There are rocker panels located underneath that are affixed to the chassis as well. Most plastic components should include an engraved part number on the back side. The blue clips or rivets seen in your final image likely slip into the skirts and are then driven into the door panels. Consider acquiring fresh clips if they are not included. Refer to examples; the component may be incorrect.

Overexploited; just purchase it and forfeit at least fifty percent of your investment.

A single minor cable connects to the front end of the battery; however, there is none connecting to the board itself in my case. Regardless of whether the board is attached, there is no electricity in the cabin.

I removed the battery a few weeks ago to recharge it. Reinstalled with the apparatus positioned on top. Devoid of electrical power. No apparent authority to any entity. I wondered if I'd damaged the 'contraption' so re-checked today. In my particular vehicle, the piece seems to serve no use. I questioned if I had blown a main fuse; however, it seems that all fuses are located below the glovebox, and I am uncertain whether a 'main fuse' exists. The battery is functioning well. Do you have any recommendations?

This raises a question I have. Is the thicker gasket only provided if the head has been resurfaced? Are there situations in which a thicker gasket is necessary when the head has not been resurfaced?

Thank you, everyone!

I have searched thoroughly and have been unable to locate any. I reside in the United States.

Apologies, I intended to refer to the timing chain; I was aware of it. Thank you for the guidance on other locations and resources. Some of you may disapprove of this; thank you for sharing your discussion on your ruptured core plug. Upon removing the head, I saw the clog situated in the timing chain chamber and speculated that I may have dislodged something during the removal process, but I was uncertain of its nature due to my limited expertise. Instead of a blown gasket, the issue was caused by the plug! The individual from whom I acquired it has considerable mechanical expertise. While travelling on the interstate, the vehicle displayed a 'low coolant' warning, subsequently resulting in a loss of power. Promptly manoeuvred it to the roadside and saw no signs of overheating on the head. He removed the cover and assumed it was the head, as most would likely do. He refrained from driving it again, unwilling to risk anything more. I am reflecting on my actions and reconsidering my next steps. My subsequent inquiry is how you managed to insert that individual there? Did you ultimately build your own jig to reinsert it?

The story of how I acquired my Mini is rather intriguing; my instructor had it for hardly a few weeks before experiencing a blown head gasket, resulting in the engine being contaminated with milky oil. 😢 He said that if I towed it from his location and repaired it, I could own it. I have always desired one, and I am eager to get her restored. Let us proceed to the matter at hand. It is a 2009 R56 basic model, non-turbo, N12 engine with 95,000 kilometres. I removed the cylinder head, cleaned the milky oil residue, and am preparing to purchase a fresh head gasket and head bolts. I will acquire a new intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, solenoids, thermostat gasket, timing belt with guides, bolts, tensioner, and sprocket. I am willing to invest a little amount in replacing some components if it enhances the motor's durability and minimises future maintenance efforts. Do you have recommendations for further components that I should consider replacing? What are some credible websites? I have been examining ECS tuning, which offers both OEM and aftermarket components; RockAuto has many products available for Minis. Regarding the head gasket issue, some have advised me to go for an OEM head gasket repair. Given that Minis are infamous for head gasket problems, should I go for OEM parts? Has Mini conducted several changes on it? I have researched the Fel-Pro Permatorque, which is said to perform well on automobiles with minor defects. I believed it would be more effective because I am not achieving a flawless finish on the head resurfacing. The head is aligned and exhibits no distortion. Has anybody used Fel-Pro, and what was their experience? What are the further evaluations about head gaskets?

Did the tire shop manipulate or replace the TPMS sensors?

Regrettably, there are increasing indications of a deterioration in Honda's dependability.