markjay

I have successfully resolved the issue by also disconnecting the Remote Cable prior to connecting it to the ACC+ terminal. After performing the soldering process, I have successfully achieved optimal audio quality in the music output. In the case of android radios, although the colors of the wires may vary, the physical placement of the cables remains consistent. The pink cable, maybe associated with remote functionality, was severed and afterwards joined to the red wire, which is often linked to the accessory power source (acc+).

I have located the amplifier situated under the passenger seat. An attempt was made to connect the Blue/blk (Remote) wire from the Bose Harness to the Orange (12V ACC) wire from the Head Unit Harness, but, no audio output was achieved. Are they the accurate ones? Prior to soldering any components, I attempted to establish a direct connection with the plug for testing purposes. However, it is possible that the connection was not adequately established.

Thank you for providing responses to all the inquiries. It seems that there may be a discrepancy, since the Bose Amplifier Harness seen in the image does not seem to be located behind the radio. Where is the location in question? Furthermore, the radio in its original state lacks a 26-pin connector for the amplifier. I own the authentic Bose subwoofer located inside the spare tire compartment in the trunk, as evidenced by the Bose branding on the respective boxes. Additionally, it is worth noting that I have a DVD navigation system, which I afterwards uninstalled. Does this alteration have any impact? This is the radio that I have purchased. This section depicts the posterior aspect of the recently developed radio device.

Greetings, individuals! To enhance the functionality of my Mazda6 GY1 2007, I made the decision to get an Android Radio. Naturally, I inquired with the vendor on the compatibility of the product with the Bose System, to which they affirmatively responded. The installation process proceeded well, without encountering any issues, and subsequent to the installation, all functions, including the automated temperature control, steering wheel, and top display, continued to function properly. The one issue I encounter is to the absence of audio. Upon conducting extensive research, I have come across several discussions on Mazda Forums, as well as other relevant sources, that address a common issue. Based on my understanding, it seems that the root cause of this difficulty lies in the fact that the Bose Amplifier requires a separate Power Signal in order to function properly. Unfortunately, it seems that the radios often used in these scenarios do not provide this specific power signal. It is recommended to establish a connection between the amplifier control and the ACC power, an action that I have attempted. I have come across a pinout diagram depicting the configuration of the audio/radio connection. Based on my understanding, the relevant pins are 10 and 18. The first item listed is a remote control with a power output of 10 amps. The second item is an accessory power supply with an output of 18 amps. I attempted to establish a connection between the two entities by means of a bridge, but unfortunately, my efforts were unsuccessful.Prior to engaging in wire cutting and soldering, I want to experiment with a temporary and uncomplicated resolution. My current inquiry is to the accuracy of the aforementioned pair of pins. Have I overlooked any relevant information? For those that successfully established a connection, what method did you use to interconnect the cables? We express our gratitude in advance.

I would want to express my gratitude to all those who have provided assistance. I will provide updates on the progress and outcomes of the situation.

A potential solution is a mixture consisting of 70% alcohol and 30% water, which might be dispensed using a spray bottle with a finer misting mechanism. The proposed course of action and the introduction of the new filter seem to be promising. Thank you for your response.

According to online sources, it has been suggested that replacing the cabin air filter may potentially provide positive results. Approximately 1500 miles ago, I replaced my vehicle's [specific item] for a cost of approximately $25, procured from a nearby automotive parts retailer. A straightforward solution would be to address the issue, given that it was unclean. I shall attempt to engage in that endeavor. What is the efficacy of using Lysol spray inside the recirculating air intake system, while operating the air conditioning unit at maximum capacity on the recirculate setting for a brief duration? Could that perhaps be beneficial? Additionally, is it necessary to spray all vents? Alternatively, would it be advisable to purchase a designated cleaning product?

The MidAtlantic area on the east coast of the United States, namely Virginia, has seen high temperatures recently. I have been often use the air conditioning system in my Mazda CX-9, and I have recently seen, subsequent to a series of wet days, the presence of a vinegar-like odor emanating from the inside of the car upon first activating the AC. The sensation diminishes within a little duration, although exhibits considerable intensity initially. Do you have any indication of the nature of this phenomenon and any potential methods for its eradication? Has anybody else encountered this issue and successfully resolved it? I express my gratitude in advance.

I am curious about the specific equipment bought on eBay for the purpose of doing this task. Could you please provide the whole name? Thank you for your response.

The aforementioned entities have returned. My impatience was the cause of the recurring error codes. I will oversee and revise as necessary.

The connections connecting to and from the alternator were completely detached, followed by a meticulous cleaning using an appropriate cleaner. As a result, all fault codes associated with the alternator have been successfully eliminated. The outcome is evident.

I appreciate the feedback provided. I have not encountered any issues either to battery charging or the illumination of dashboard lights. Is it advisable to disregard this code in your opinion?

I refrained from inundating you with inquiries, therefore initiating a fresh discussion thread pertaining to a distinct matter. Is it OK to have just one wire present in the connection block?

I appreciate your response. I have examined the battery and it is now at full charge, indicating a capacity of 100%. Despite my efforts, I have been unable to successfully install it.

Greetings, I have lately made a purchase of a 2019 3 series G20 automobile. Upon configuring the My BMW application, I received a notification indicating the availability of a software update. Subsequently, I successfully transferred the update to my vehicle. However, I am now being informed that I will be alerted once the installation process is prepared. The situation has persisted for a duration of ten days. I have ensured that the vehicle is in park, the engine is running, and I have rebooted the iDrive system, among other troubleshooting measures. The battery health/percentage is the only aspect that I am unable to verify. Has anybody encountered this issue and discovered a solution to bypass it in order to successfully install the software? I express my gratitude in advance.

Okay, reread my first response: plenty of noises may result from applying force. The fact that the sound disappeared when the brakes were adjusted is proof here. The noise is probably not coming from the brakes, but rather the axles. Just have another "qualified" individual listen to it without knowing anything about the recent brake work. This manner, they won't automatically assume that the problem is due to the brakes. This is why I recommend having it checked out at Firestone. Instead of being baffled by the brakes, the mechanic will observe the newer components and check elsewhere for the source of the noise. I'll have one of my Technicians analyze the situation and give some attention to their diagnosis if I have a client who appears to know more than me (LOL) and if there is a condition that I now have stuck in my head from that "smart" customer as to what it was.

LMAO, the mechanics who can't figure out what's wrong with the brakes and suspension, and MAZDA swapping out something that will never turn. It's time to pack up and leave New York. Now is the time to visit a local *Firestone for a free inspection.

The video's quality isn't great, but the problem doesn't seem to be a broken axle. This is just conjectural, however I have heard a similar noise in a customer's car and one of my own. There is no noise produced by the front suspension while the car is on the rack and the weight is not pressing down on it. Finally, with the use of a sound meter, I was able to pin the increased noise level during mild braking on the output shaft seal. Since the axles often had a lot of miles on them, I went ahead and swapped out the whole assembly, bearings if necessary, and output shaft seal. There is no longer any noise. The argument is that the suspension was hanging in an abnormal position, speeding up the wear on the axle or seal, and the noise only started when the brakes were used. All I have to go on is hearing what I assume was a familiar sound and seeing the incredibly brief and low-quality recordings.

that W204!

Lots of people have seen this post, but none has replied to it.

My battery has worked good, starting the vehicle every time on the first try with no additional issues; but, when I plugged it into the OBD machine, I received two error warnings. Unknown Code P220101 and Coolant Thermostat (Temperature Below Thermostat Regulation Temperature) Code P012800

Howdy, folks! Okay, I'm stuck on a new issue and was hoping someone could be able to shed some light on it for me. While driving my C350 3.5, I've recently noticed that Sport Mode switches on from Economy mode without my intervention. When the Sport button is pressed, a dashboard indicator light and a S sign light up. I have to pull over, turn off the engine, then restart the vehicle before I can turn off the switch again. Fault with the electricity or the machinery? I'd be grateful for any help you could provide. Preemptive appreciation

How would that even function? Why is there no electricity?

I bought my car in Oxford in March 2014, and this problem happens when I play music from a USB stick or my iPod through USB. When you connect an iPod via USB, it takes a long time because every time you turn on the device, it gets all of the music. The same goes for setting up an iPhone using Bluetooth. Before you can make a call or listen to your music, you have to wait a while for it to download your phonebook and music. The one good thing is that it doesn't always go back to track 1. I called Mazda, but they didn't seem to care about the problem at all. I did ask if they were working on a software fix because I had read about it on this plus a US form. They didn't know and didn't seem to think they did. Overall, the entertainment system is terrible compared to what I've had in other cars.

I have to agree with Neil, the estate is far more aesthetically pleasing than the saloon. namely the sport itself. My stepdaughter's white 2.0L gasoline sport with 19" alloys is really stunning. It's a joy to drive because to its silky smooth suspension and responsive handling.It's a big step forward over the old version.However, the saloon has grown to the size of a Mondeo or Insigina, and I find that overwhelming. I plan on keeping my current Mazda 2.2d until the release of the Mazda 3, at which point I will evaluate both vehicles. I'm keeping my 6 for the time being, however.