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Despite the installation of a new battery and a rebuilt alternator, the battery light continues to illuminate.


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Greetings to everybody, I am seeking guidance and assistance in finding the correct path. Approximately three months ago, I acquired a replacement battery for my 2000 Mazda Protege ES. Over the course of the previous weekend, I encountered a predicament that necessitated the acquisition of a replacement alternator, namely one that had undergone the process of remanufacturing. Upon returning from an out-of-town trip, I proceeded to drive the vehicle a distance of 150 miles. However, a recent occurrence has disrupted the previously stable condition of the vehicle, which happened yesterday night.

The battery indicator illuminates and then extinguishes within a brief period of time. This occurrence is deemed acceptable and does not warrant concern. I will address this matter in the morning. Today, I would want to draw a parallel between my previous discussion on the battery and the alternator. While driving, the radio abruptly ceases to function, and soon afterwards, the whole vehicle experiences a complete loss of electrical power. Bring the vehicle to a halt inside a designated parking area while expressing frustration via the use of profanity on many occasions.

Following a short delay, during which I engaged in several telephone conversations, I successfully managed to restart the vehicle and resume my journey, ultimately securing a more favorable parking location.

However, the question remains as to what the next step should be in this particular situation. What potential negative consequences may arise? Is it possible for the alternator to be faulty from the beginning? What other alternatives may I consider examining?

I express my gratitude in advance for any assistance provided.

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Items to verify.
1. Verify the condition and tension of the alternator driving belt.
Ensure that the battery post connections are free of dirt and debris and are in optimal condition.
To start the process, it is recommended to first disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Subsequently, proceed to loosen the primary chassis ground plate in close proximity to the wiper motor. Thoroughly cleanse the three bolts and the plate itself, ensuring optimal cleanliness. Finally, securely fasten the plate back into place. Following this, repeat the aforementioned steps for the main ground connection situated on the passenger side engine mount of the engine block.
To begin, it is necessary to replace the negative terminal of the battery. Subsequently, it is advised to verify that the battery exhibits a voltage of at least 12 volts. It is important to note that if the battery voltage falls below about 11.5 volts, the vehicle may still start, but the excitation level will be insufficient for the alternator to initiate charging. In the event that the voltage is insufficient, it is recommended to either charge the battery or use booster cables to facilitate the starting of the vehicle.
When the engine is operating at a high idle, it is important to verify that the voltage between the battery terminals falls within the range of 13 to 15 volts.
If deemed acceptable, proceed to do a test drive of the vehicle in order to replenish the battery.
The user's text does not contain any information to rewrite in an academic manner.Please return to this location and inform us of your discoveries.

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Greetings, I attempted additional actions prior to seeing oldeng's reply.

An attempt was made to jump-start the vehicle yesterday night, but no success was achieved despite the use of jumper wires. The vehicle is still capable of generating a limited amount of electricity, as seen by the partial illumination of the lights and the slightly dimmed state of the dashboard.

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Alright, Please attempt to complete as many items as possible from the checklist that I have provided, since they have significant importance.
The engine compartment fusebox might be located in the vicinity between the engine coolant reservoir and the battery. Upon removing the cover, one will see a schematic diagram on the underside, which provides information on the fuse's layout, rating, purpose, placement, and the arrangement of relays. The fuse located closest to the engine, namely the 100Amp. (blue) fuse, is not designed for plug-in installation. Instead, it is secured in place by means of two bolts.
Please review the text for coherence and logical flow. If the fuse has been blown, it is possible that the previous alternator caused the damage.
It would be very beneficial if you could provide a comprehensive description of the specific "issue" encountered with the freshly replaced alternator.
Please assess the continuity of all the fuses in the fusebox using a meter, rather than relying just on eye inspection. Kindly share your results on this topic.

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However, the displayed value will be limited to about 90 amps due to the fact that alternators typically operate at 80% of their maximum capacity. In the event of insufficient amperage or voltage, the problem may be attributed to the alternator. Examine the condition of the harness connected to the alternator to determine its state. If the harness is found to be damaged or faulty, it is likely the source of the problem. However, if the harness is in proper working order, the issue is likely attributed to the alternator itself.

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Apologies for my oversight in not providing a timely response. I made the decision to bring the vehicle in for inspection, opting to see a nationally recognized automotive service provider due to the presence of a warranty. Indeed, it was determined that the faulty component in question was the alternator. While the current alternator has managed to endure this particular situation, it is worth noting that its predecessor only lasted a mere 200 miles before experiencing a similar malfunction. Thus, the long-term reliability of the current alternator remains uncertain.

I appreciate your attention and the provision of your feedback.

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Although this topic is dated, I am contributing to it in order to maintain its relevance and avoid duplicating my inquiry elsewhere.

I am encountering a same problem with a 1994 Protégé vehicle. The battery indicator illuminated, prompting the user to seek professional assistance at a nearby automotive parts establishment. After conducting a diagnostic test, the technicians concluded that the vehicle's alternator required replacement, as shown by the absence of any voltage reading at the battery.

I purchased the recently released alternator and proceeded to install it, inadvertently neglecting to subject it to a bench test. Regrettably, I am already experiencing identical symptoms, namely the illumination of the battery light and the failure of the alternator to effectively charge the battery. The automobile will successfully initiate ignition using a jumpstart, but, it is evident that the vehicle's operation will be limited when relying only on battery power.

The vehicle was returned to the automotive parts establishment, where it was seen that the alternator exhibited same behavior as previously observed, with a voltage reading of 0 volts at the battery. A replacement has been requested, however, the individual at the parts establishment advised verifying the continuity of the ground connection between the alternator and the battery.

I will attempt to use the aforementioned checklist provided by oldeng in order to assess the situation tomorrow, prior to removing the alternator. I will afterwards provide an update on my findings within this forum.

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It is plausible that the positive wire connecting the alternator to the battery may have incurred damage due to excessive heat or electrical overload.
Please inspect the vehicle's main body ground and remove any rust present.
Additionally, it is preferable to include an additional ground wire connecting the engine block to the negative terminal of the battery, and maybe include an additional body ground. The aforementioned tasks are the most straightforward to begin with. Subsequently, the complexity increases as a result of issues such as a malfunctioning fuse box, a faulty wire harness connection, and a defective electronic control unit (ECU).
Wishing you the best of luck.

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The automobile in question is now stationary inside the confines of my own garage, as the automotive technician responsible for its maintenance and repair has expressed their inability to proceed with the necessary work due to their lack of knowledge about the specific issue afflicting the vehicle.

I own a 2001 Mazda 626 automobile that has accumulated a mileage of 123,000 kilometers. I have refrained from using the vehicle since November of the previous calendar year. I want to ascertain the underlying issues within the subject matter. What is the appropriate starting point for this task? I am eager to acquire knowledge in order to comprehend and resolve this issue. Although I possess a diverse range of skills and knowledge, my experience in the field of automobiles is limited.

Any assistance would be much appreciated.

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