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Odd, because I've done the same thing without the battery.

I attempted to connect a portable jumper with a 1250A rating to the wires under the hood, but alas, it was unable to detect the battery, so it remained inactive. I even attempted to overwrite it. It would have worked if the battery terminals were connected, but I'm stuck without a master key fob and the negative terminal isn't connected.

If you happen to have jumper cables and an additional vehicle on hand, you can power the locks by linking the downer car's battery to the E46 jump points located under the bonnet.

Amazon.co.uk : car battery

Amazon.co.uk : BMW 330i

I just got my e46 330i back from the mechanic, but it was dead and I didn't have the key fob (just the valet key). The cherry on top isn't having to get into the trunk, though. The negative terminal was disconnected by my mechanic. Can I crack it somehow?

A button on the indicator stalk's end allows you to reset the mileage countdown. It has a plethora of content on YouTube.

For complete app access, it's around $80 on Amazon and $40 on Bimmerlink.

The obdlink cx should be in my possession.

OK. I've seen a lot of advertisements for these dongles online, but how do I pick the right one? Cheapest isn't always the best, but I'd rather not waste money on something that isn't essential. Please know how much I value your advice.

Does it really have an obd2 dongle? Is there a way to address that? How much is it, and where can I get some?

ANCEL AD410 Enhanced OBD2 Scanner OBD2 Code Reader Car Diagnostic Tool | Check Engine Light Fault Reader Diagnostic Scan Tool for All OBDII Car After 2002 (Black/Yellow) : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Vgate vLinker BM Plus Bluetooth BLE OBD2 Scanner for BMW/Mini, Works with iPhone & Android Unlock Auto Hidden Functions in BimmerCode, OBD II Diagnostic Tool : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

In my opinion, it must be obd2. In a way, or another. For example, bimmerlink. A bimmlink app and an obd2 dongle are at my disposal. In addition, you can verify sensor data and cell voltage by resetting all services.

I have also done that. It is necessary to reset the service counter after replacing the sensors in order to inform the vehicle that they were replaced. All the way up until then, it will assume that you still require new brakes. Personally, I reset all of that using bimmer code.

Is it something I can plug in, or are you saying I can do it while driving? I have attempted multiple methods to reset it while in the car, but to no avail.

must use diagnostics tool to reset service counter

Yes. Even after switching them out, the light remains on.

Additionally, you are aware that the rear axle houses a sensor.

The answer would also pique my interest. Changing out the sensor is easy; just look up how to do it on YouTube. I finished it, but now I can't seem to get the warning light that, if I'm not mistaken, says it's time for a brake service. Even after trying a few times with the various solutions provided, the light remains on.

I removed the calliper with the pad wear sensor a few months ago while inspecting my brakes, but I was too hasty and ended up pulling the wires from the plastic end bit. I believe it's the driver's side, o/s/f. I used a cable tie to secure the end since I wasn't worried about fitting the wires back in. Everything has been running well since the installation of a new caliper—the pads had plenty of meat on them—until this past weekend. As I slammed on the brakes as I approached a narrow road with oncoming traffic, the rev counter displayed the red "brake" symbol and an icon showing a ramped-up car. After doing some research, I learned that the code belonged to the brake pad wear sensor (CC-ID 071). Is it feasible to simply install a new wear sensor? I don't know why these lights have suddenly turned on. Is there a suggested one, too? I am grateful.

Much obliged, sir. I solved my kangaroo problem by thoroughly cleaning my MAF two months ago, but now I'm beginning to doubt my MAF situation. There it is again. At light load, when other systems are beginning to function, the air-fuel mixture is most sensitive, which occurs between 1300 and 1500 revs. I'm assuming that in 8 or 10 weeks, they will be just as shoddy because of all the oil vapour that is reaching them? The PCV valve has already been replaced. Do you know that even a small amount of oil can produce a lot of vapour?

He may miss your post since he hasn't been on this site since April.

Were you able to resolve this? Like you, I've experienced severe kangarooing, particularly at low throttle. It turns out I needed to clean the MAF sensors, which fixed the problem for around three months before I had to do it again. Maybe I'll switch them out someday.

The 2015 E350 212 estate has almost 120,000 miles on the odometer. I used to get it serviced at MB as part of my service plan, but when the price of the plans went up a few years ago, I switched to a local indie. They aren't experts in MB, but they've been able to fix most of the things I couldn't handle on my own. The car was serviced and MOTd a few months ago without any problems; however, I had observed that the rear suspension had a tendency to dip when parked for an extended period, so we decided to have someone check it out. I started to notice an issue every once in a while while driving around the same time. While in sixth or seventh gear, it became the most apparent. When you gently press down on the accelerator after coasting for a while, you might feel a little 'kangaroo' effect, similar to what you would experience in a manual gearbox car when you're going too fast for the gear you're in. At the time this problem was discovered, the vehicle was not shifting gears. Took the vehicle in for a suspension checkup; after discovering a leaking air spring, the issue was resolved. In their investigation into the kangaroo problem, they uncovered a gearbox code reading "Internal control fault at the CPU" (P060C-00). They were able to clear the code and then had the vehicle for a few days, during which time they took it for multiple test drives without noticing any problems and the error code never came back. But, I've observed that the problem appears to persist even now. Icarsoft did a scan, and it came up error-free. Additionally, I have reset the gearbox twice, but the problem persists. Not constantly, but generally speaking, the vehicle performs admirably. I could probably handle it if it wasn't going to get worse or if it wasn't an indication of some kind of impending catastrophe, but it's also not like this before and it's not normal. I would greatly appreciate any recommendations that members may have before I return to the independent, with whom I have maintained a cordial relationship throughout the years and with this vehicle in particular. Giving it to the neighbourhood MB dealer is no longer an issue for me. I was never impressed by their service, and after just a few days I would have racked up a bill that was more than the car was worth!