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https://www.amazon.com/s?ascsubtag=v1-57524d-5873-fd109ddf27-k&k=Toyota+Yaris

The wife has a Yaris Gr Sport in solid white, and my previous Evoque was Yulong White. I was hoping for a change, so I got an Ash Grey Bi Tone for my 24 C-HR Gr Sport. I think it looks better than the solid white, but I guess that's just my opinion.

I've already asked the same question when I went to the dealership down the street. The computer, alas, said no. You were right; it was worthwhile to enquire. Storm Grey appears to be the way to go, but it will be some time before that happens. I intend to continue using my Scarlet Flare for quite some time.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Toyota+Yaris

Titan bronze, the colour I ultimately chose for my Mk.4 Yaris, was not available in the configurator. This colour was only shown to me after we had already discussed options at the dealership. Would you recommend it?

Ash Grey isn't a colour I'd choose. Regardless, you adore the hue, and it's unfortunate that they discontinued it. Also, I've seen a few C-HRs in that colour, so you won't be the only one let down.

Indeed, most forums nowadays use an escalation approach. A keyboard frenzy can be sparked by differing viewpoints and opinions. The white paint jobs and primer-style colours have always been my favourites. It doesn't appear to show water stains and is easy to clean. I know I'm not alone in lamenting the Ash Grey's demise. Clearly, not all individuals 😂

My goodness, that got out of hand fast! The Toyota primer isn't as terrible as some of the VAG primers, but it does appear like they skipped the top coat on a few of the lighter greys.

Your input is highly appreciated for its insightfulness and value. I appreciate you talking about this.

I am grateful. I hate that shade of grey. This is nearly as terrible as the white :D:D

I have a white Gen2 with a black roof, but I also think the dark maroon colour is stunning.

To my disappointment, the Ash Grey option is no longer available on the Toyota configurator. What a disappointment; that was my preferred colour scheme for the next C-HR; the black rear quarter was a perfect complement. It always looked great on my first-generation Toyota in that colour, so I'm surprised Toyota decided to get rid of it. The salesperson said Storm Grey is the replacement; however, I will not make a final decision until I see one in person.

These tasks are best left to a garage that has the expertise and specialised equipment to do them efficiently. I would also consult a BMW dealer for an estimate. You should probably replace the driveshaft seals as well if you decide to change the diff, because it's a big job that requires a fair amount of disassembly and the suspension needs to come apart on one side.

https://www.amazon.ca/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Loctite

I also had a ballache removing the "NUT" from my car in order to replace the diff pinion seal; it is a special tool that comes on with loctite from the factory

The big multi-point nut and the way the prop connects make them a real pain to do on later models. The process is more involved than just taking the prop off, undoing a nut, and pulling the flange. I think four hours is about right because you also have to drop the exhaust and heat shields.

https://www.amazon.com/s?ascsubtag=v1-a484af-606535-3af7e26430-k&k=BMW+335d

Good day. There is an oil leak at the rear differential where the drive shaft enters my 2019 335D X Drive Shadow Edition Touring. It appears like a lot, but two different garages have quoted me four hours of labour, and they both say it's the oil seal. So many videos on YouTube say it takes about an hour and a half, and I'm worried that either the garages are trying to scam me or that the videos are showing the wrong differentials being serviced. Either way, I need to figure out how long it really takes to fix my car. Someone advised me to purchase a used differential and have it installed instead, saying that it is easier and faster because the differential has a spring-loaded seal or something. Could someone please clarify this for me? I am grateful.

I had the same issue with my 211 E500.

His words.

They wobble as they wear out; they are rubberised and commonly referred to as torsional vibration dampers.

The two parts aren't the only ones. There are a couple more items, but the list is shorter. Idler pulley, tensioner, bolts, etc. The dealer is obligated to adhere to Mercedes regulations. This comes with no spare parts. Plus, labour is expensive. The Belgians. thrice as much as a standalone garage. That area is called Wallon. Every single garage in the area has completely lost my trust. Due to mental exhaustion, the only decent one closed. However, compared to high-quality aftermarket components, the pulley is actually more affordable. They stand firm on the two-year warranty, which is the only perk in my book. Including the subframe, they have dutifully honoured everything. It isn't accurate to say that the pulley is loose. Here we have a pulley/harmonic damper. The structure is disintegrating. It's not easy. In French, I understand everything. Aircraft jargon is my speciality, but automotive lingo is completely foreign to me.

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=crankshaft+pulley&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181132&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X061ef7b6dd753f64f6d80663116d9dbc&subId2=15

What gives the crankshaft pulley its slack? How loose is it? Surely there must be some oil seeping out?

Is the belt and crank pulley the only components costing €1,150? around £962 in today's money). Too much for what appears to be a straightforward task. Perhaps they included that quotation to make the larger one seem more credible. The whole thing takes around 90 minutes and costs £200.