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arriving in 2015 with an F02. After chasing some intriguing electrical gremlins on the automobile, I decided to join after hovering for a time. Excited to delve deeper into the wealth of knowledge shared here and, with any luck, make a meaningful contribution where I can. Pleasure to be a part of it.

In a staggered configuration, the back wheels are usually broader.

Just like I mentioned before, some tires provide a more comfortable ride. Learn as much as you can from this and the web You might also try lowering the pressure by one or two psi before you buy the tires. How are the shocks and suspension? I upgraded from 18s on my old E350 coupe to 19s on my new E400 coupe. Although I do agree that the ride is somewhat rougher, I had to replace the worn tyres with Hankooks because the original ones weren't very good. I give them a piss under the table.

Could you tell me who makes the tires? The journey could have been smoother, and my car arrived on Continental around 5 p.m. After switching to Goodyear Assi 5, I felt much more in control and had a much more pleasant ride.Limousines will never be an option, as previously stated. Changes in tyre size are not recommended by Mercedes. The wheels on your vehicle should be the same size and have staggered tires. I briefly experimented with a larger rear tire on my car, but I soon realised that it affected its handling, so I went back to the original size. The automobile is something I really miss having. My best wishes as you resolve the issue

Even with 18-inch wheels and tires, the ride quality won't be limousine quality.

I think it will work out okay. For compression, inner arch, or suspension, the most important thing is to avoid catching the arch lip. Changing the ratio of rotational speed between the front and back axles has a slim chance of causing electronics to malfunction. It is also important to think about the insurance consequences and speedo reading. As I mentioned before, everything should be fine. Just remember that you shouldn't be too upset if the ride comfort remains the same. Before you proceed, be sure the change was worthwhile by taking a large dose of placebo 😁.

If you want to raise the side wall, you should typically lower the tire size so you have almost the same rolling resistance and, as points out, you won't have any problems with the tyre touching the wheel arches or liners.

Your speedo will likely simply become more accurate as a result; they are all factory-read. More importantly, while the vehicle is in full lock, I would be concerned about the clearance of the front tire arch liners.

Hello, I appreciate that. An excellent resource. The next thing I need to know is whether or not the 12 mm claimed increase to my ride height is something I can live with. Also, I will have a 3.5% accuracy rate in my speedo. That means I'm actually going 28.9 miles per hour, even though the speedometer indicates 30. Since it's simply a little adjustment, do you think it will cause any issues? What a relief you were to me.

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Your speedo's accuracy will be affected by the change you're suggesting. Take a look at this:

Salutations everyone, I own a 19-inch wheeled E400 Cabriolet. The journey is horrible 😬. 235/35/R19 tires are mounted up front. I would like to enhance the tire's profile. Would the switch to 235/40/R19 be acceptable? I have 255/30/R19 on the back tire. Are 255/35/R19 wheels an option? Alright, according to my tyre guy. He also suggested checking the forum. I recently had these wheels recut, so I'd rather not switch to 18-inch alloys. Helpful suggestions are welcome. I want to thank everyone.

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A handful of fundamentals: Make sure the battery connections are secure (now that you can feel them), and then find out how much power the alternator is generating. Is there a start/stop function? Is the right battery being blamed? If the battery isolator is malfunctioning, for example, the error codes mentioned before might indicate it.

Have you recorded the error codes before erasing them? Did they exist in the present or were they preserved for the future?

An indication of overnight current drain is 11 volts on a brand-new battery. The voltage should be higher now. Although EML can be triggered by low voltage, it typically turns off after three driving cycles.

The problem could be due to a low battery voltage, according to what I read online.

It seems like you're experiencing a significant drain on current. You installed a new battery; why? Perhaps hiring an auto electrician is the way to go.

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I had a message on my 2017 A220D that said "consult workshop" without shifting gears. When I put in a new battery and turned on the EML, the car started right up. Restarted the vehicle after clearing the faults, but the same issue reappears when the engine is turned off. I charged the battery again and drove, but the same problem occurred after turning off and then turning on the ignition. What's strange is that the following day, I checked the battery with a voltmeter and it only read 11.v. Please let me know your thoughts on this.

Yours truly. My companion is coming along, and she has warned me not to miss what could be glaringly clear. His asking price is virtually exactly what a trader would pay, plus or minus £1,500 more than the research suggests for a tidy private sale. The dealer's estimate for fixing the arm ball joint is about £570; however, I will be able to shave at least £2,000 off that figure. Regarding the AA/RAC inspection, you are correct; I shall take that into consideration. Actually, it would be wise to have a professional Mercedes mechanic take a look at the vehicle. I had the RAC look into it and found someone with expertise in 280SLs in 2000, when I bought a 1983 model. They dispatched a guy who was clueless about these autos and had no prior expertise with them. In the end, a wealthy investment banker bought her after we had her for 23 years.

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