All Activity

I am grateful. It was determined that it was not a JPN matching decoder after trying copilot as well. Even after attempting several protocols, nothing worked...

From Gemini: I'm uncertain about the veracity of this. When it comes to Android head units, this is a typical case of the "Ghost in the Machine" problem. The Canbus box is physically connected and communicating if the AC buttons and steering wheel controls are functioning, but the Android software has not yet "shaken hands" with the hardware. A "Disconnected" status in the factory settings is typically an indication that the head unit isn't able to communicate with the particular Protocol (the language the box speaks). Step 1: Find Your "Canbus Brand" The Unveiling Process Using the software's list, you will not be able to determine the brand. It is imperative that you examine the actual hardware: Typically, the primary wire harness is attached to a little plastic box (often black, red, or blue in colour) located below the head unit. On the label, you should see the name of the brand. Raise (RZC), Hiworld, Simple Soft (XP), ODIE, and BNR are common ones for Toyotas. Your Factory Settings will ask you to choose a brand, and you'll need to choose one that corresponds to that box. When the box says "Raise," choose "Raise" (or RZC) from the selection, then go to Toyota > C-HR. 2. The Most Frequent "Protocol" Pitfall with Toyotas There may be more than one version of an Android device, even if "Toyota C-HR" appears in the list. If "C-HR" is unsuccessful, you can attempt these "cousin" models, which frequently share data: Come see the 2019 Corolla 2017–2018 RAV4 As of 2018 and later models, the Camry (General) "All Toyota Models" Third, look for the "Small Plug" The Canbus box may be easily accessed by a tiny 4-pin or 8-pin connection on the rear of the Android device. The steering wheel controls may continue to function if this white connector is unplugged (because they occasionally employ analogue "Key1/Key2" cables), but the data (door opening, fuel info, aircon status on screen, etc.) will be shown as "Disconnected." Until you hear a click, insert the little plug carefully. 4. The significance (the "Why Fix It?" Factor) You may ask why fixing the "Disconnected" state is necessary if your buttons are functional. In most cases, unlocking occurs once the Canbus is correctly synced: You can see which door is open on the screen with the help of door opening graphics. The yellow lines in your camera view that change position as you rotate the wheel are called dynamic parking lines. Keeping tabs on the energy flow is possible with a hybrid monitor. Factory Settings: Using the screen to change the behaviour of the car's settings, such as the door lock. Overview of Documents Extend the device slightly so you can make out the name on the little decoder box. Press the "F" key (often 8888, 1617, or 1234) to access the factory. First, choose Protocol Settings or Canbus. After choosing the brand (such as Hiworld) on the box, proceed to Toyota and finally C-HR. Reboot: In order for the "Connected" status to become green, it is often necessary to click "Save" and allow the device to completely restart. If the generic passwords don't work, would you like me to look for the one that works for your particular brand of head unit?

To replace the Japanese-locked device, the dealer fitted an Android one. The controls for the steering wheel and air conditioning are operational. Having said that, the canbus disconnect option is there in the device's factory settings. I understand that choosing Canbus is necessary. Since I was unsure which provider to choose, I looked through all of the options until I realised that chr was one of the models. However, the message "connected canbus" persists even after I choose it. Am I overlooking anything? Every bit of information would be helpful because I am completely new to this. Even though I used Google extensively, I still have no idea how to properly search for this new information.

Hopefully it's not something major, but my S204's plastic engine covers and pipes wobble like crazy. It's a poor design; I would wreck the vehicles if I could. Mine is a lot quieter once I take off the engine covers.

I appreciate your response. What a strange sound! I hope it doesn't cause any costly problems. I'm crossing my fingers that it's just a heat shield or a loose panel. It sounds like the engine bay or somewhere nearby is where the noise is coming from. Would this be the same if they haven't oiled the gearbox enough?

it's hard to tell, and you can end up following unicorns in circles before you figure out what's making all the noise. On the other hand, if they've taken off any heat shields or coverings, it might be a vibrating unicorn. Is the sound emanating from the vehicle's interior or outside, the front or the rear? Though I've never heard anything similar, I think it might be worthwhile to investigate more.

For context, consider the following: - 64 plate Mercedes C Class 250. Section 205 64,500 miles. This problem typically manifests in manual transmissions when the vehicle is in high gear (5th) and the engine speed is low, such as 2k \. On film, the noise appears when gear changes from fourth to fifth, which is when the automatic gearbox typically shifts from fourth to fifth and the RPM lowers. - this noise only occurs when you're pulling (i.e., going uphill or accelerating); as you let off the gas, the noise stops. The noise only happens at low RPM 2k < and high gear 5 >, therefore it doesn't happen in sports or sports plus mode when the RPM is greater before shifting gears. - coasting prevents this from happening. — not even when the engine is revved all the way to red line in neutral. The noise finally became audible a few weeks following a comprehensive service at a Mercedes SPECIALIST facility (not a dealership) in my area, during which they changed the gearbox oil and filter. As far as we know, this is the first service of its type based on age and mileage. The garage I spoke with over the phone claimed that the oil change was just usual and that they use a computer and software to perform it, along with real parts and oil, so I should bring it back on Friday so they can check their work. Since I witnessed the delivery of the items when I dropped off the vehicle for servicing, I am certain that they used Mercedes oil and parts. Anyone have a clue as to what may be making that noise? I'd like not walk in on Friday and accuse them of botched service. Perhaps a loose panel or component, or an inadequate amount of gearbox oil? In case you can't make out the sound in the video, it sounds like a motor, vibrating, or clicking noise. This effect is temporary when the engine speed is low in high gear; it disappears as the engine speed increases or when the paddle is used to manually shift back into fourth gear. I would much appreciate any assistance.

Greetings to everybody, Could someone please have a listen to this engine sounds and tell me what it is? I'm having trouble figuring out where it's coming from.

Standing automobiles are often plagued by rodents, which love to nibble on the cables, haha.

Instead of having separate fuses for each light, the FRM is protected by a number of fuses.

That's great, thanks. I will check for defects. He had intended to sell the automobile, but plans fell through, so it sat in a field for a year. I drove her home (250 miles) without any problems, except for the brakes binding (which are now solid, but that's another story). However, when I started her up a few weeks later, a mouse came out from under the windscreen and between the bonnet, wiped his whiskers and then vanished. that's why I'm concerned about rodents. Are the nearside and offside headlights fused independently, or do they get different feeds from the FRM?

A code scan wouldn't hurt, because I'm leaning toward the idea that the FRM module is at fault with the problem you've described. Instead of having separate feeds for each light, the switch instructs the FRM to do what you want, and the FRM acts accordingly. This is how headlight feeds were originally implemented in older automobiles.

https://fuse-box.info/bmw/bmw-3-series-e90-e91-e92-e93-2005-2013-fuses-and-relay/amp

Don't you think the parking lights are like little angels' eyes? front and rear, I would anticipate them. This particular headlamp is exclusive to the front side. Please, someone, tell me how to find the source of the issue. To begin, I was going to remove the fuse. I believe it's fuse no. 9, but the board doesn't have any numbers, so a diagram would be helpful. It appears that there is a short somewhere, and it seems to be affecting only the nearside headlight. This means that it has passed the point where the power is divided between the offside and nearside headlights, which is normally after the switch in the cabin. However, it is clearly avoiding this switch in some way. thought-provoking issue.

Have you double-checked that the parking lights are off?

I may have a rodent problem because I live in the country. I removed the earth terminal from the battery since I couldn't figure out which fuse was for the headlights, but I was intending to remove it as part of the diagnostic procedure. I can't believe it. Aside from the nearside headlight, everything else is turned off.

It is clear, thank you. Then, what problems did you encounter?

Even with a single adjustment, I've experienced compatibility concerns with Aerosus. Required the complementary one on the opposite side. Ultimately cost more than buying one authentic one separately would have. That was a lesson for me 😉

It was completely fake. They still haven't revealed the source, but I'm guessing Aerosus.

Were they using an Aerosus knockoff or the real deal?

On the left side of the back of my 2013 E63 estate, I could hear a knocking sound. After I brought it to a nearby MB specialist, they advised me to get a new shocker. I got the shocker changed, but on the drive home I discovered that the adaptive suspension button was frozen on one light, making it impossible to manipulate. Returned it, and he informed me that they are unable to reprogram the level sensor at this time. So I scheduled the installation of a new level sensor. However, after they finished the job, he contacted me to inform me that they had encountered a another issue—the right shocker's valves were no longer functioning. He then informed me that I also needed a shocker on that side since the adaptive suspension was still not functioning properly. When I returned home and checked on the vehicle the following day, I noticed that the suspension had significantly lowered. Before now, I've never experienced this issue. Is there something suspicious going on here, or is this just a coincidence? I am grateful.

What an ordeal! Fortunately, we have a night charging station at home and will utilise the one from Lidl in case of an emergency.

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/the-public-charge-point-regulations-2023-guidance/public-charge-point-regulations-2023-guidance

I would have thought so, too. The purpose of the Public Charge Point Regulations 2023 in the United Kingdom is precisely that. In reality, Pod Point (now called Pod Energy) has been slow to accept "roaming" credentials in order to initiate a charge, and at the moment, they only support Zap Map's software in addition to their own. Accepting the credentials of at least one other account provider is all that is required by law. They have completed Zap Map. This is known as malevolent compliance. Without exception, they carry out the bare minimum of what is required of them by law.