motorman3

Thank you, I really value your contribution.

Your generosity is much appreciated. Thank you.

Many thanks

Typically, I refrain from sharing photographs of the automobiles I acquire; but, I am inclined to make an infrequent exception from this practice for the present vehicle due to its potential rarity. This particular vehicle is a Mercedes, which is noteworthy due to its unique characteristics. As a result, it may attract the attention of those associated with the MBClub community. Today, I acquired a Kleemann SLK 55K S8 automobile. I acknowledge that the vehicle I am referring to may seem less exciting in comparison to a Mercedes-AMG ForFour Black Series AMG Sport Plus Night Edition Premium Plus 125 Navi facelift equipped with Brabus enhancements. The automobile in question is a single-owner vehicle with little miles, displaying superb overall condition. The purchase was made via a former AMG technician who adheres to very high standards, and any components that did not satisfy his rigorous criteria were replaced. The Mercedes vehicle first left the factory equipped with a normally aspirated 5.4 litre M113 V8 engine. However, it underwent further modifications by Kleemann, which included the addition of a supercharger, as well as the replacement of the camshafts and the whole exhaust system, including headers and racing catalytic converters. During its day, the aforementioned vehicle was sometimes labeled as the "Baby SLR" because to its F1-inspired front design, comparable power output (but not identical), and the distinctive combination of a deep-chested exhaust note and the whine of a supercharger. Both the inside and exterior exhibit a conventional design, devoid of any indications about the contents concealed within the vehicle's engine compartment. The vehicle has an Obsidian Black exterior hue complemented with a two-tone nappa leather inside in black and red, which is well preserved. The wheels have an alternative five-spoke design as opposed to the often seen "Turbine" type. I am inclined towards the use of turbines, however I would consider the possibility of acquiring a suitable set of 19-inch AMG IV wheels.

Apologies for my oversight in not providing a timely response. I made the decision to bring the vehicle in for inspection, opting to see a nationally recognized automotive service provider due to the presence of a warranty. Indeed, it was determined that the faulty component in question was the alternator. While the current alternator has managed to endure this particular situation, it is worth noting that its predecessor only lasted a mere 200 miles before experiencing a similar malfunction. Thus, the long-term reliability of the current alternator remains uncertain. I appreciate your attention and the provision of your feedback.

Greetings, I attempted additional actions prior to seeing oldeng's reply. An attempt was made to jump-start the vehicle yesterday night, but no success was achieved despite the use of jumper wires. The vehicle is still capable of generating a limited amount of electricity, as seen by the partial illumination of the lights and the slightly dimmed state of the dashboard.

Greetings to everybody, I am seeking guidance and assistance in finding the correct path. Approximately three months ago, I acquired a replacement battery for my 2000 Mazda Protege ES. Over the course of the previous weekend, I encountered a predicament that necessitated the acquisition of a replacement alternator, namely one that had undergone the process of remanufacturing. Upon returning from an out-of-town trip, I proceeded to drive the vehicle a distance of 150 miles. However, a recent occurrence has disrupted the previously stable condition of the vehicle, which happened yesterday night. The battery indicator illuminates and then extinguishes within a brief period of time. This occurrence is deemed acceptable and does not warrant concern. I will address this matter in the morning. Today, I would want to draw a parallel between my previous discussion on the battery and the alternator. While driving, the radio abruptly ceases to function, and soon afterwards, the whole vehicle experiences a complete loss of electrical power. Bring the vehicle to a halt inside a designated parking area while expressing frustration via the use of profanity on many occasions. Following a short delay, during which I engaged in several telephone conversations, I successfully managed to restart the vehicle and resume my journey, ultimately securing a more favorable parking location. However, the question remains as to what the next step should be in this particular situation. What potential negative consequences may arise? Is it possible for the alternator to be faulty from the beginning? What other alternatives may I consider examining? I express my gratitude in advance for any assistance provided.

I conducted an online search for information on the EGR modification for the Mazda6 vehicle model.

It is worth noting that BMW invests a significant amount of time and financial resources towards enhancing the auditory experience of its vehicles. The 325TI vehicle I previously had was equipped with a sound generator located under the engine hood and connected to the ECU compartment. The ECU compartment functions as a sound amplifier, as shown by the effect of drilling a huge hole underneath the air filter box to produce a resonant roaring sound.

While it is acknowledged that the aforementioned elements, such as the inclusion of a phony turbo whistle sound and the use of an M3 badge, are well-known, the focus is mostly on the concept or notion being conveyed.

Thankfully, purchasing a new set of bulbs is not too expensive. The Osram Nightbreakers are a must-have.

Increasing the color temperature of a light bulb beyond around 4400k makes it seem brighter than it really is. Personally, I think 6000k is too high.

I agree with both of these statements; a thorough deep cleaning of the automobile is required if the odor is to be diminished. It will be necessary to employ steam cleaning and carpet extraction to thoroughly clean all surfaces. If you don't thoroughly clean the interior glass surfaces (including the sunroof), the odor will return when you leave the vehicle in the sun on a warm day. The odor may never be completely gone, but it may certainly be mitigated.

You can only rely on a chain as much as its weakest link. Even if just one employee failed to pass along your message, the whole organization will be tarnished if they did not. Mistakes are made, and not everyone is as careful as they should be. NOT an explanation, but reality imposed itself. However, I believe that a company's true character may be shown in how they react after an error of this kind. The right strategy is. As soon as they accept responsibility, they act as rapidly as they reasonably can to make things right. The dealership's apparent failure in that regard is totally intolerable. You might try appealing your case higher up. -Someone in the company will (or should) prioritize the happiness of its clientele.

If the spark plugs and the fuse for the fuel pump are removed, the engine will not start to do the compression test. I believe I'll need to consult with a hybrid specialist. A more sophisticated scan tool with a compression test may be required...

I'm not sure how the previous proprietor managed to misfuel it, but he did! Dealers are uncomfortable at the best of circumstances, so I will not even attempt to interact with them. I require the assistance of a hybrid expert to determine how to perform a compression test on the engine. I can't even directly power the starter motor because I just discovered there isn't one!

Hello, the dealers would not look at it under warranty since it seems to have been misfueled in the past. It's a luxury 2018 Hybrid model from the United Kingdom. According to what I've heard, dealers may connect a diagnostic tool and put it to compression test mode, which turns off the gasoline, ignition, and cranks the engine to do the test. Is it possible to do a compression test on this automobile without purchasing an expensive scan/diagnostic tool?

Hello, cylinder 2 won't start. I've changed the spark plugs, the coil pack, and the injector, but nothing works. I'm now ready to do a compression test, but I don't know how to start the engine to do this. Who can tell me what the best way to do this is? On a regular car, I'd pull the fuse for the fuel pump and turn the key. We'd be grateful for any help...

My 2014 2.2D went in for a MOT and a "Powertrain Control Module update" at the same time. I think it might have something to do with the new EU carbon rules for 2018. Does anyone know more about this?